[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

[Echo North]

Why is R71 not on the mouser list?

Now that everything is stuffed on the board, I've got the R71 missing.

Doesn't it need to be on the board?

Edit: Just found it that the kit seems to be for a front panel zero adjustment control.

Does the knob that comes with the hairball audio kit allow front panel zero adjustment control?

Mike

There should be a 2K pot in your mouser order for the front panel 0 adjust.

 

[atticmike]

Ah alright. Well the customs still holding the package back -.-

Thanks for the info

By the way I've just attached an image of my progress!

Why is R71 not on the mouser list?

Now that everything is stuffed on the board, I've got the R71 missing.

Doesn't it need to be on the board?

Edit: Just found it that the kit seems to be for a front panel zero adjustment control.

Does the knob that comes with the hairball audio kit allow front panel zero adjustment control?

Mike

There should be a 2K pot in your mouser order for the front panel 0 adjust.

 

[Volume11]

Hey guys, I am hoping to get some advice here, as I don't want to mess anything up beyond repair. Although I am still fairly new I do have some history in electronics. I've built several effects pedals and a few guitar amps.

This project went fairly smooth until I powered it up (of course), and tried to do the calibration steps. The meter lit up, but was stuck at -1 on both the +4 and +8 settings. No matter how much signal I threw at it, it did nothing. Non of the trim pots or input level do anything. The only time the meter changes is when it has been powered down for awhile or I press the gr button. When I select gr, the meter goes all the way to the right. Eventually the fuse blew. I didn't even get a chance to check voltages, which I wish I did first. I have my power transformer wired for 115v blue tied to violet and brown to grey. I have the center taps, orange and black, tied together and wired straight to the board via the on board terminal. I have the lamp for the meter wired to thie same spot. Does this all sound correct?

Sorry I lack in terminology, I am still learning. If anyone is willing to help, I'd really appreciate it. I can take pictures if necessary.

Thanks
Chad

 

[Volume11]

Hey guys, I am hoping to get some advice here, as I don't want to mess anything up beyond repair. Although I am still fairly new I do have some history in electronics. I've built several effects pedals and a few guitar amps.

This project went fairly smooth until I powered it up (of course), and tried to do the calibration steps. The meter lit up, but was stuck at -1 on both the +4 and +8 settings. No matter how much signal I threw at it, it did nothing. Non of the trim pots or input level do anything. The only time the meter changes is when it has been powered down for awhile or I press the gr button. When I select gr, the meter goes all the way to the right. Eventually the fuse blew. I didn't even get a chance to check voltages, which I wish I did first. I have my power transformer wired for 115v blue tied to violet and brown to grey. I have the center taps, orange and black, tied together and wired straight to the board via the on board terminal. I have the lamp for the meter wired to thie same spot. Does this all sound correct?

Sorry I lack in terminology, I am still learning. If anyone is willing to help, I'd really appreciate it. I can take pictures if necessary.

Thanks
Chad

I posted this last night, since then I have done quite a bit of reading on this forum. I realized that I messed up the orientation of the transistors. I used 2n5088's without checking the pin out. I just brain farted I guess . Does anyone know if this would actually cause the fuse to blow? I'm sure that it can mess with the meter readings, right?

I also want to thank everyone who made this project possible, hairball, mnats, Ed Anderson. And the people on this board. You guys are awesome! Thanks!

 

[edanderson]

wrong transistor orientation would stop that section of the circuit from working, but probably would not blow a fuse.  are you sure that the fuses you have are the right current rating and are SLOW BLOW type?  brief transients could pop a regular fuse, although such transients shouldn't really happen unless something is connected incorrectly.

ed

 

[Volume11]

Thanks for the reply... I used the 250 ma fuse from the bom on the hairball site, I'm pretty sure that it's a slow blow. I'm about to order some more, so I will double check. I was kind of going crazy switching between the meter buttons, I wonder if maybe that had something to do with? Just a guess. Also, I didn't have the bottom panel mounted, so there is a slight chance that something on my bench could have shorted something internal, but I doubt it. I'll get voltages once the new fuses get in.

By any chance, does anyone have a part number or link for a good terminal strip, like the one used in wiring instructions on mnats page?

Thanks again
Chad

 

[Echo North]

This is probably not causing your meter issue...but check anyway that you haven't over tightened the VU meter mounting screws.  This will bow the faceplate causing the needle to stick. 

Yes the fuse in the BOM is Slow-Blow.

 

[atticmike]

As I was stuffing both of my stereo kit pcb boards, I got puzzled as to what parts of the regular kit I have to put on the double-sided power supply board?

1. Have I missed an additional parts list?

2. Is it half the parts of the 1.25 mats list plus additional ones?

3. Does two times the regular bom list cover the double-sided power supply board?

Mike

 

[Gege]

Hello all,
I have some questions to ask you again :

Let's start with values questions !
-On Mako PCB R58 is 120R but in HairBall PCB R58 should be 180R
-On Mako PCB R19 is 68K but in HairBall PCB R19 should be 130K
Who is right  ? Mike ... Mako ...  ;D

-In Mako Rev 1.2, C19 and C20 are electrolytique cap, and in rev 1.2.5 there are tantale. What's the difference in sound ?

-And last newbie's question about double etched PCB, i have to solder each side top and botton of the pcb, even if in the top lot of pad are no connected ?

Thx a lot ! 

 

[Gege]

Nobody can help me ?

Echo north, why do you change Mako value on your Ratio/Meter PCB ?

 

[evilcat]

You should take a look at the  schematics on the JBL site, there's different values between rev A, rev AB, and if I remember correctly, Mako's values are a mix of those 2.
Maybe take a look at my thread :
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=40154.msg496790#msg496790 

There's some info for R19 and tantalums caps, it may help you.

Good luck on your built, it's a very good project : it sounds fantastic!!!

Best,

Ben

 

[Gege]

Fine,

It's weird that mako use a different schematic between his BOM and his board  ?
For example, i'm looking for R31 and C13 since 1 hour  ;D (but i see on thread you're already ask the question  ;D)

So I find this the original blue stripe schematic:
http://www.waltzingbear.com/Schematics/Urei/Urei_1176_page_1.htm
http://www.waltzingbear.com/Schematics/Urei/Urei_1176_page_2.htm

And there are many values difference/remove like in the ratio value
To the origin there's no R58, R63 is bigger ...

What is the better.
Follow mako board or follow the original values.

I think if mako make change it's not for nothing ?

 

[evilcat]

Have you checked the thread I've talked you about ? There's maybe your answer.

 

[lordnielson]

Any apparent reason why the release knob would increase volume?

Also not getting any action on r44 for the last step of calibration.

And massive distortion with audio passing through.

This is a first for me, so please be gentle  ;D

 

[Lucin Niega]

Hello,

I've finished building this unit, powered it up and the lamp won't turn on. I've used  the insulated 220 ohm resistor to ac1. I'm getting 30v through the secondary. It's coming out 24v ac to the lamp. Should it be 12v?  Any thoughts?

 

[Volume11]

Hi all, I am still having trouble here. I get audio in and out no problem, but I am unable to adjust the q bias. I have switched the orientation of the vr (r59) and replaced it with no luck. I noticed that I am getting continuity between the negative and positive wires just after the input pot, before and after the input transformer. Is this correct? I used the pictured wiring diagram on mnats page, which was very easy to follow, so I'm assuming that this is normal, or maybe a faulty component.

 

[lordnielson]

If somebody could have a critical look at these photos I'd appreciate it.

 

[lordnielson]

The two top solder "sockets" got separated from the meter board so I tracked them to these points on the back.
Would that in any way affect how the machine operates ?

 

[Lucin Niega]

I thought  the lamp may have been broken (hairball meter). I tested it with +12v dc to one terminal and -12 dc to the other terminal. It works. It doesn't work with the ac power though. I think its because the voltage is too high (24vac). Please help 

 

[atticmike]

the fuse that comes with the mnats cart, does it withstand the eu voltage of 230?