spase
Well-known member
spase said:
anyone ?
[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...
- Thread starter mnats
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
anyone ?
spase said:spase said:
anyone ?
why not? pretty much exceeds the power transformer provided by hairball
I'm rather concerned whether the Dual Primary (115V/230V) Toroidal 2X25 30VA Power Transformer is able to handle two units at the same time without running hot?
I mean, hairball puts it in their stereo kit bundle.
Also, what do you think of my arrangement?:
Also, can anybody do a quick paint job / rough sketch of the wiring?
Also, do I have to do any fine tuning on the boards when stuffing both pcbs or simply plug and run?
Biasrocks
Well-known member
atticmike said:
The Hairball transformer is capable of putting out .6 amps, more than enough for two 1176's which are normally fused at 250ma each.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Guys,
I have another issue with my 1176 that perhaps the more experienced users could advise me upon.
The limiter adds a transient boost to the incoming signals even when compression is disabled via the attack switch.
Any ideas what could be causing it?
- Justin
I have another issue with my 1176 that perhaps the more experienced users could advise me upon.
The limiter adds a transient boost to the incoming signals even when compression is disabled via the attack switch.
Any ideas what could be causing it?
- Justin
Echo North
Well-known member
atticmike said:
MNATS' BOM is always the official BOM. Mine is just there for people who want to use the mouser cart and it is not guaranteed to be accurate (though I think they are). R57 is on my BOM as well.
ChrioN
Well-known member
Biasrocks said:
Sorry, no photo. But its so straight forward one isn't really needed.
All the colored wires from the hairball output transformer goes to the (of course) correct terminal on the pcb.
Also Yellow and Orange is connected.
Red goes to + on XLR. Blue goes to - on XLR. An extra set of red and blue wires goes from the XLR to the meter PCB as well.
ChrioN said:
the whole wiring is easy as long as you mind every step and read everything carefully.
What I'd appreciate some experience on would be the wiring of the power transformer in 230 v countries with the hairballaudio kit's transformer.
Mike
ChrioN
Well-known member
atticmike said:
The Grey and Violet wires should be connected together. This will give you 230v swing between Brown and Blue. I can't garantee that the colors haven't changed though. There should be a schematic on the toroid for you to follow. Be careful.
You want to connect the two primaries first taps in parallel for 115v.
For 230v, you want the second tap on the first primary connected to the first tap of the second primary.
Biasrocks
Well-known member
Sorry, no photo. But its so straight forward one isn't really needed.
[/quote]
A photo is worth a thousand words, and I'm not going to pull my blue face out of the rack to see how it's hooked up. Your move.
Am I correct that your getting signal right up to the output transformer?
Regards,
Mark
[/quote]
A photo is worth a thousand words, and I'm not going to pull my blue face out of the rack to see how it's hooked up. Your move.
Am I correct that your getting signal right up to the output transformer?
Regards,
Mark
ChrioN
Well-known member
Biasrocks said:
Photos
Thanks man, much appreciated
So far so good, I've done all the cable work and now everything just has to be checked and connected.
However, there is a a little imbalance between the wiring page and the 1.25 wiring pdf.
At the wiring pages, x & y that go to the meter board differ from the documented 1.25's.
I just did it the way it is advised by the new wiring pages, especially mnats referred to older, not corresponding documents?
Either ways, it'll work, just with a different polarity in the worst case which makes me simply re-solder the connections.
So far so good, I've done all the cable work and now everything just has to be checked and connected.
However, there is a a little imbalance between the wiring page and the 1.25 wiring pdf.
At the wiring pages, x & y that go to the meter board differ from the documented 1.25's.
I just did it the way it is advised by the new wiring pages, especially mnats referred to older, not corresponding documents?
Either ways, it'll work, just with a different polarity in the worst case which makes me simply re-solder the connections.
Biasrocks
Well-known member
Your output XLR is miss wired, you have the ground and pin 2 reversed.
Switch the GREEN and BLUE wires.
Mark
Switch the GREEN and BLUE wires.
Mark
hasn't anyone come across the fact that the wiring pages of the ratio to output (X &Y) do not match with the 1.25 pdf document?
oh and here's a picture of my progress:
also, has anybody gotten the link board working yet and can provide the community with a fancy drawing ?
There were a few in the previous posts but all of them were concluded with a questioning "not working".
oh and here's a picture of my progress:
also, has anybody gotten the link board working yet and can provide the community with a fancy drawing ?
There were a few in the previous posts but all of them were concluded with a questioning "not working".
Volume11
Well-known member
Can someone tell me if this is the correct or incorrect orientation for the trim resistors?
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I am still having trouble with the q bias stage. I have tried new 2k and 5k trim resistors, in both ways. Checked the hfe on q6, which was at about 130. removed q12 and 13, and replaced them with a matched set of 2n5088 with an hfe of 450. I cant get the meter to move at all. Any ideas? I have checked all of my resistors to be sure that they are the correct value, and I checked each of them before i stuffed the board. This is my 3rd attempt to get some help on this issue, no one responded to my last two posts. I'd really appreciate it if anyone has any input. Please don't suggest that I read back a few pages etc. unless you think that it will really help with this issue, as I have read this whole topic twice now. Thanks
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I am still having trouble with the q bias stage. I have tried new 2k and 5k trim resistors, in both ways. Checked the hfe on q6, which was at about 130. removed q12 and 13, and replaced them with a matched set of 2n5088 with an hfe of 450. I cant get the meter to move at all. Any ideas? I have checked all of my resistors to be sure that they are the correct value, and I checked each of them before i stuffed the board. This is my 3rd attempt to get some help on this issue, no one responded to my last two posts. I'd really appreciate it if anyone has any input. Please don't suggest that I read back a few pages etc. unless you think that it will really help with this issue, as I have read this whole topic twice now. Thanks
Volume11
Well-known member
Here's a few more pics in case something is noticeably wrong with my build. If so, hopefully someone can spot it.
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ChrioN
Well-known member
Those are 1/4" connectors, not XLR. They are wired in a different way. http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/media/document/2802/Drawing+NJ3FP6C
Biasrocks said:Your output XLR is miss wired, you have the ground and pin 2 reversed.
Switch the GREEN and BLUE wires.
Mark
Biasrocks
Well-known member
ChrioN said:
Uhhhggggg...
Really??
http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/media/document/2802/Drawing+NJ3FP6C
Look closely at the front view of the connector, the GROUND is on the LEFT, RING is on the RIGHT, TIP is CENTER.
I'm assuming that unless the laws of PHYSICS have changed significantly, the reverse is true when you are looking from the BACK of the connector.
You can verify all this crazy science stuff and my theory with a CONTINUITY BEEPER on a METER.
Regards,
Mark
