[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

[spase]

can i use toroidal transformers with this spec (2x24V, 50VA) for this project ? Thank you.

anyone ?

 

[atticmike]

can i use toroidal transformers with this spec (2x24V, 50VA) for this project ? Thank you.

anyone ?

why not? pretty much exceeds the power transformer provided by hairball

I'm rather concerned whether the Dual Primary (115V/230V) Toroidal 2X25 30VA Power Transformer is able to handle two units at the same time without running hot?

I mean, hairball puts it in their stereo kit bundle.

Also, what do you think of my arrangement?:

Also, can anybody do a quick paint job / rough sketch of the wiring?

Also, do I have to do any fine tuning on the boards when stuffing both pcbs or simply plug and run? 

 

[Biasrocks]

I'm rather concerned whether the Dual Primary (115V/230V) Toroidal 2X25 30VA Power Transformer is able to handle two units at the same time without running hot?

The Hairball transformer is capable of putting out .6 amps, more than enough for two 1176's which are normally fused at 250ma each.

Regards,
Mark

 

[justinvm]

Hi Guys,

I have another issue with my 1176 that perhaps the more experienced users could advise me upon.

The limiter adds a transient boost to the incoming signals even when compression is disabled via the attack switch.

Any ideas what could be causing it?

- Justin

 

[atticmike]

Does anyone know why at the wiring pages, a small resistor is attached to the release pot but on the bom, there is nothing?

So no resistor to the release pot or is it missing in the bom?

Mike

 

[mnats]

Does anyone know why at the wiring pages, a small resistor is attached to the release pot but on the bom, there is nothing?

So no resistor to the release pot or is it missing in the bom?

Mike

Which BOM are you referring to? It's on my BOM and clearly shown on the schematic as well.

 

[Echo North]

Does anyone know why at the wiring pages, a small resistor is attached to the release pot but on the bom, there is nothing?

So no resistor to the release pot or is it missing in the bom?

Mike

MNATS' BOM is always the official BOM.  Mine is just there for people who want to use the mouser cart and it is not guaranteed to be accurate (though I think they are).  R57 is on my BOM as well. 

 

[atticmike]

Does anyone know why at the wiring pages, a small resistor is attached to the release pot but on the bom, there is nothing?

So no resistor to the release pot or is it missing in the bom?

Mike

MNATS' BOM is always the official BOM.  Mine is just there for people who want to use the mouser cart and it is not guaranteed to be accurate (though I think they are).  R57 is on my BOM as well.

Yup, thanks to my indecision of either doing buttons or rotary, it ended up on the rotary board -.-

 

[ChrioN]

Make yourself a signal tracer and trace the signal and find out where it disappears.

Mark

I can trace through the whole unit with from [after the input transformer] to [before the output transformer] and get excellent results. But as soon as I go through one of the transformers things gets ugly.

So it's getting lost in the output transformer.

How about a photo of the output transformer wiring from the board to the XLR out.

Mark

Sorry, no photo. But its so straight forward one isn't really needed.
All the colored wires from the hairball output transformer goes to the (of course) correct terminal on the pcb.
Also Yellow and Orange is connected.
Red goes to + on XLR. Blue goes to - on XLR. An extra set of red and blue wires goes from the XLR to the meter PCB as well.

 

[atticmike]

Make yourself a signal tracer and trace the signal and find out where it disappears.

Mark

I can trace through the whole unit with from [after the input transformer] to [before the output transformer] and get excellent results. But as soon as I go through one of the transformers things gets ugly.

So it's getting lost in the output transformer.

How about a photo of the output transformer wiring from the board to the XLR out.

Mark

Sorry, no photo. But its so straight forward one isn't really needed.
All the colored wires from the hairball output transformer goes to the (of course) correct terminal on the pcb.
Also Yellow and Orange is connected.
Red goes to + on XLR. Blue goes to - on XLR. An extra set of red and blue wires goes from the XLR to the meter PCB as well.

the whole wiring is easy as long as you mind every step and read everything carefully.

What I'd appreciate some experience on would be the wiring of the power transformer in 230 v countries with the hairballaudio kit's transformer.

Mike

 

[ChrioN]

Make yourself a signal tracer and trace the signal and find out where it disappears.

Mark

I can trace through the whole unit with from [after the input transformer] to [before the output transformer] and get excellent results. But as soon as I go through one of the transformers things gets ugly.

So it's getting lost in the output transformer.

How about a photo of the output transformer wiring from the board to the XLR out.

Mark

Sorry, no photo. But its so straight forward one isn't really needed.
All the colored wires from the hairball output transformer goes to the (of course) correct terminal on the pcb.
Also Yellow and Orange is connected.
Red goes to + on XLR. Blue goes to - on XLR. An extra set of red and blue wires goes from the XLR to the meter PCB as well.

the whole wiring is easy as long as you mind every step and read everything carefully.

What I'd appreciate some experience on would be the wiring of the power transformer in 230 v countries with the hairballaudio kit's transformer.

Mike

The Grey and Violet wires should be connected together. This will give you 230v swing between Brown and Blue. I can't garantee that the colors haven't changed though. There should be a schematic on the toroid for you to follow. Be careful.
You want to connect the two primaries first taps in parallel for 115v.
For 230v, you want the second tap on the first primary connected to the first tap of the second primary.

 

[Biasrocks]

Sorry, no photo. But its so straight forward one isn't really needed.
[/quote]

A photo is worth a thousand words, and I'm not going to pull my blue face out of the rack to see how it's hooked up. Your move.

Am I correct that your getting signal right up to the output transformer?

Regards,
Mark

 

[ChrioN]

Sorry, no photo. But its so straight forward one isn't really needed.

A photo is worth a thousand words, and I'm not going to pull my blue face out of the rack to see how it's hooked up. Your move.

Am I correct that your getting signal right up to the output transformer?

Regards,
Mark

Photos

 

[atticmike]

Thanks man, much appreciated

So far so good, I've done all the cable work and now everything just has to be checked and connected.

However, there is a a little imbalance between the wiring page and the 1.25 wiring pdf.

At the wiring pages, x & y that go to the meter board differ from the documented 1.25's.

I just did it the way it is advised by the new wiring pages, especially mnats referred to older, not corresponding documents?

Either ways, it'll work, just with a different polarity in the worst case which makes me simply re-solder the connections.

 

[Biasrocks]

Your output XLR is miss wired, you have the ground and pin 2 reversed.

Switch the GREEN and BLUE wires.

Mark

 

[atticmike]

hasn't anyone come across the fact that the wiring pages of the ratio to output (X &Y) do not match with the 1.25 pdf document?
oh and here's a picture of my progress:

also, has anybody gotten the link board working yet and can provide the community with a fancy drawing ?

There were a few in the previous posts but all of them were concluded with a questioning "not working".

 

[Volume11]

Can someone tell me if this is the correct or incorrect orientation for the trim resistors?


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I am still having trouble with the q bias stage. I have tried new 2k and 5k trim resistors, in both ways. Checked the hfe on q6, which was at about 130. removed q12 and 13, and replaced them with a matched set of 2n5088 with an hfe of 450. I cant get the meter to move at all. Any ideas? I have checked all of my resistors to be sure that they are the correct value, and I checked each of them before i stuffed the board. This is my 3rd attempt to get some help on this issue, no one responded to my last two posts. I'd really appreciate it if anyone has any input. Please don't suggest that I read back a few pages etc. unless you think that it will really help with this issue, as I have read this whole topic twice now. Thanks

 

[Volume11]

Here's a few more pics in case something is noticeably wrong with my build. If so, hopefully someone can spot it.


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[ChrioN]

Those are 1/4" connectors, not XLR. They are wired in a different way. http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/media/document/2802/Drawing+NJ3FP6C

Your output XLR is miss wired, you have the ground and pin 2 reversed.

Switch the GREEN and BLUE wires.

Mark

 

[Biasrocks]

Those are 1/4" connectors, not XLR. They are wired in a different way. http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/media/document/2802/Drawing+NJ3FP6C

Uhhhggggg... 

Really??

http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/media/document/2802/Drawing+NJ3FP6C

Look closely at the front view of the connector, the GROUND is on the LEFT, RING is on the RIGHT, TIP is CENTER.

I'm assuming that unless the laws of PHYSICS have changed significantly, the reverse is true when you are looking from the BACK of the connector.

You can verify all this crazy science stuff and my theory with a CONTINUITY BEEPER on a METER.

Regards,
Mark