Freshkis
New member
Thank you all for this very nice project. Got mine up and running and they sound very nice 
Reddish 500 EQ
- Thread starter JMan
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
I got some of the boards from Ian way back, along with some 500-series in/out pcbs from JLM with the intention of building exactly what's realized in this project. But now I want this instead 
I have sold all of the remaining boards, unfortunately. However, you could try contacting @Kevin at Link Audio. He purchased a few extras from me that he might be willing to sell if he still has them, and he has metalwork too.I got some of the boards from Ian way back, along with some 500-series in/out pcbs from JLM with the intention of building exactly what's realized in this project. But now I want this instead
And not follow through with my plan and purchased parts? I think I'll let it dust down in a box in the cellar, instead. And just dream of even more features I'd like to add to it while never actually pulling the plug on metalwork/panels to house it in, as to finish it and get to use it. Like normal people, right? Procrastination and short focus is the name of the game.
I "unfortunately" have more ideas about design and a giant backlog of 90% finalized projects, than neither commitment to finishing stuff or square footage in the studio to put it all. Or real need, honestly.
But I do see the value of kits much more these days, in order to actually end up with a working thing. It's always the metalwork that stops me, just so scary to commit to buying panels that might not fit. And wiring sucks compared to dreaming up new shiny monsterboxes with all the nice things you don't own...
thanks though! I'll go back to thinking about how I should combine a stereo Redd, Helios and Pultec into a 1u box or something equally unlikely.
I "unfortunately" have more ideas about design and a giant backlog of 90% finalized projects, than neither commitment to finishing stuff or square footage in the studio to put it all. Or real need, honestly.
But I do see the value of kits much more these days, in order to actually end up with a working thing. It's always the metalwork that stops me, just so scary to commit to buying panels that might not fit. And wiring sucks compared to dreaming up new shiny monsterboxes with all the nice things you don't own...
thanks though! I'll go back to thinking about how I should combine a stereo Redd, Helios and Pultec into a 1u box or something equally unlikely.
I hear you! I'm the same way, and I spend more time by an order of magnitude dreaming up ideas that I don't have the time, money, or expertise to pull off, and I've got a backlog of projects so long that I'll never finish all of them. 
I apologize if I misunderstood your earlier post, I thought you were expressing interest in building this project. Certainly, if you've already got all the parts to build what you originally planned, that's the way to go!
I apologize if I misunderstood your earlier post, I thought you were expressing interest in building this project. Certainly, if you've already got all the parts to build what you originally planned, that's the way to go!
dmp
Well-known member
These are the correct switches from Mouser:
706-71BDF30-02PAJS
706-71BDF30-01QAJN
If you look at the "part number aliases" they show 71BDF30-02-1-AJS
I don't know why they do that
706-71BDF30-02PAJS
706-71BDF30-01QAJN
If you look at the "part number aliases" they show 71BDF30-02-1-AJS
I don't know why they do that
Yeah, those part aliases are confusing as heck, and it creates a lack of confidence when ordering.
dmp
Well-known member
No it doesn't. The BOM says 1 deck, 2 pole. And everything else you wrote is wrong too. The alias for 706-71BDF30-01QAJN in Mouser is 71BDF30-01-2-AJN
And, yes, they are 100% correct - I ordered those part numbers and built them
>>>>>
Bass Gain, Brilliance Gain 2 deck 1 pole 11 position, shorting 2 Grayhill 71BDF30-02-1-AJS
Freq Select 1 deck 2 pole 5 position 1 Grayhill 71BDF30-01-2-AJN
And, yes, they are 100% correct - I ordered those part numbers and built them
>>>>>
Bass Gain, Brilliance Gain 2 deck 1 pole 11 position, shorting 2 Grayhill 71BDF30-02-1-AJS
Freq Select 1 deck 2 pole 5 position 1 Grayhill 71BDF30-01-2-AJN
I’m not familiar with MCE, but they’re probably fine. I’m building one pair of mine with all matched polystyrene, and was able to get 1000pF up to .01uF Xicon from Mouser. The .015uF to .1uF are a mix of Mallory and EPCOS from Tedss, which made it a bit more costly because they have a $20 minimum per item, but they had all the ones I needed. I recommend placing the components that are around the caps first, as the physical size will require some creative placement, as you can see in HerbertR’s earlier post.
@thelivingroom Appreciate the input !
Yeah it's gonna be interesting to fit them nicely . I have some extra PTFE wires and I found using the sleeve from them very helpful for the styrene cap legs when mounting them vertically . Added bonus , they look sexy
Thanks!
Yeah it's gonna be interesting to fit them nicely . I have some extra PTFE wires and I found using the sleeve from them very helpful for the styrene cap legs when mounting them vertically . Added bonus , they look sexy
Thanks!
ruffrecords
Well-known member
The curves are very broad (low Q) so a small shift in frequency will be unnoticeable.
Cheers
Ian
Perfect , thank you Ian !
I purchased ten 5nF 5% tolerance and matched two that were closest to 5n1.
Smart! I'll order a few more and do something similar , need to stock up a bit . End of life on mouser gives me nightmares .
Thanks for the tip!
ruffrecords
Well-known member
Two things to remember. First, the tolerance on the inductor values is probably only 10% so selecting capacitors to better than 1% is probably not worth the effort. Secondly, for the LC circuits (i.e. the mid band), because the resonant frequency is proportional to the the square root of L times C, a 10% change in either L or C only makes a 5% change in the frequency.
Cheers
Ian
