[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

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It lives!
My REV D is up and running, turns out the board had a bad trace at the q bias. I had to expose some of the trace a little up from the dead pad and jump the trimmer pin and BAM!

Did all the calibrations and it just fell into place, dead nutz on and sounding sweet.

Thanks to all that helped.

Time for number 2...
 
Hyder said:
Time for number 2...

You mean you've been holding it this whole time?  ;D

Congrats!

College, maybe it's time you pull r44 out and test the resistance to ground from each pin, maybe your board has a hidden short somewhere.
 
gemini86 said:
Hyder said:
Time for number 2...

You mean you've been holding it this whole time?  ;D

Congrats!

College, maybe it's time you pull r44 out and test the resistance to ground from each pin, maybe your board has a hidden short somewhere.

LOL! And oh what a relief it is!


Yea I had no reading on the pad so I removed some material on the trace and jumped the pin and there it was.
When I got to step 3-r44, I set up my 10db drop on the front panel in VU mode, switched to GR mode and didn't even have to touch the trimmer on r44, it was a10 db drop on the nose.
Go figure!
 
edanderson said:
college101 said:
I checked my R44..I checked for grounding on both sides of R44..and both sides tested to ground on a continuity test...

I'm getting 7.37 Ohms on each side of R44

power off
r44 out of the circuit
one probe on ground
one probe on junction of q12-e and r68 - where one end of r44 would connect

you measure ~7 ohms?
same thing if you move the probe from q12-e to q13-e and r69?
what about at each of the three pads for the jumper?

ed

Hey ED!

Back from out of town, and while I have a break from studying my C++ programming...I checked out what you referenced above

With the unit off and respect to ground..I had 0 ohms at both junction points on either side of R44..

As well as all three TP1 terminal connection points...with jumpers connected to TP1
 
that is pretty strange.  just to make sure your meter isn't broken, have you checked any other points in parts of the circuit that do work?  sorry if that question seems redundant, just want to rule out any other possibilities.

i would get a strong light and a magnifying glass if you have one and look at the pads on the ground plane side of the PCB (the side with fewer traces -- should be the component side IIRC).  can you see if there are little rings (or squares) of blank space around all the pads you tested near r44?

ed
 
I will check both topside and bottom of the board once I get out of class tonight..

And get some pictures  in here

Right now, I have coninuity on all three test points to ground for R44...

Just once I re-insert R44 into the DIP socket, The needle stops being able to be adjusted by R44

Seems like R44 is cancelling the circuit, if that makes any sense....
 
if all of those points really are tied to ground, i'm surprised that the circuit works at all, even with r44 out.  take a close look and take a macro photo of the PCB in that area if you can.

ed
 
it does, but through a few resistors -- r68, r69, r70, the zero adjust pot r71, r73 etc.  take a look at the schematic area around r44.  you should measure >5kohm since all of those points have to at least go though r70 and r73 to get to ground.

ed
 
Yeah...with power off and R44 out of circuit, I get 0 ohms at the two 'Emit' points...

Strangely enough...My meter is working...When I test my ground point...it cycles threw and register's 0 ohms at my gound ppoint...

When I connect to the R44 Emit points...it does not cycle back threw , but still shows 0 ohms...Im geussing because the other resistors connected right there!

My meter is working, Im albe to test  every other part in the circuit with no problems...

Just when I connect R44 into the circuit, the needle drops to -20 and no amount of movement from R44 will adjust it...



 
OK guys...went back threw my R44 section last night...

I am getting a passing continuity test from Q13E to the test point BUT no ohm reading! ( I am getting an ohm reading from Q12E to tp1! (***Found it**)Think I found the problem...Geuss I have to cut the trace and re-connect with a piece of wire...

Atleast this is where I am getting too now...

 
well...I decided to hold off on cutting the trace...

I went back threw...R44 passes coninuity test, but there is no Ohm reading? Think its time to take it to a Tech... Im scared I will ruin it! or something else is wrong that affects R44.... 
 
Anyont had any issue with the unit VU meter drifting out of calibration over time, I havent really even burned mine in yet and the meter is already off  about 1/2db left from "0" in GR mode.  Do the units need to be calibrated regularly?
 
I recall a reissue unit at my friend's studio that would drift after being on for about 4 hours. I don't know if it has anything to do with operational temperature at calibration, but it wouldn't hurt to run it for a day with a sine running though it (compressing) before doing a final calibration.

I know my diy build is constanly out of calibration by about .5-1 db, depending on how it's feeling that day.

I also used a cheap modutec meter, though.
 
the rev A/D meter circuit is fairly temperature sensitive, but with the box closed up in a rack the temp in the case gets warm and stays stable after being on for 30-60 min.  it is class A so the temperature is fairly constant (most of the supply is "thrown away" as heat due to the inherent inefficiency of class A).  under 1dB of drift is pretty normal with most meters and yes you may want to calibrate annually.

ed
 
BigBellC said:
Hey Guys,

I'm looking which rev to build... now, in the BOM for Rev D, there are some parts that I didn't find or where I have some questions about.

- Some Caps are listed with "elec or film"...what do you recommend? Advantages? Perhaps sonically?
- The Mica caps(C3, C6)...Are the micas from Mouser okay?
- What about C23 (6.8 µF, 35V) Nichicon PW series okay? Normally I use Panasonics, but they aren't in stock...

Many Thanks!

Hi,
did you have an answer for the C23 ?
I find the C19 and C20 : T350F685K035AT is 35V / 6,8 uF OK

For the C23 I got UPM216R8MED : 6,8 uF / 100V. On the Mnats'BOM 2.2 I can read C23 : 6,8 uF / 35V

What is correct ?

My other problem is with C18 : I got a 45uF / 50V and Mnats say 45 uF/ 35V.
 
germoju said:
BigBellC said:
Hey Guys,

I'm looking which rev to build... now, in the BOM for Rev D, there are some parts that I didn't find or where I have some questions about.

- Some Caps are listed with "elec or film"...what do you recommend? Advantages? Perhaps sonically?
- The Mica caps(C3, C6)...Are the micas from Mouser okay?
- What about C23 (6.8 µF, 35V) Nichicon PW series okay? Normally I use Panasonics, but they aren't in stock...

Many Thanks!



Hi,
did you have an answer for the C23 ?
I find the C19 and C20 : T350F685K035AT is 35V / 6,8 uF OK

For the C23 I got UPM216R8MED is 100V / 6,8 uF. On the Mnats'BOM 2.2 I can read C23 : 35V / 6,8 uF.

What is correct ?

My other problem is with C18 : I got a 50V and Mnats say 35V.

As far as volts go, you can always go higher with no problem. Just don't go lower and you will be fine.

I wanted to use the Panasonic FM Series Caps as they are low ESR and specifically designed for audio use..... Oh and also highly reccomended. But for the values not in stock, Panasonic FC series were the main choice which are also low ESR and specifically designed for audio use. However as many reivews will state the FC series don't quite sound as musical as the FM series, which are much preffered by the 'pros'. My secondary choice, for the remaining values I couldn't get in the FC series were the Nichion PS series, which are once again low ESR and designed for switching power supplys. Infact comparing data sheets on the two series, the Nichions are almost identical with just as good frequency coefficient of the ripple current as the Panasonics.

Polypropylene capacitors are a mainstay for audio upgrades. Their quality is excellent, they're reliable, and there are quite a few sources for them. For low voltage work, the 50V ECQ-P series from Panasonic are excellent, but they only go up to 0.47pF. Also people seem to be fond of the Wima FKP2 series which have a much larger capacitive range, I would recommend them. Polypropylenes come in two types: film and foil, and metallized. The film and foil types are excellent, but big; the metallized units are smaller, but some listeners say they don't sound quite as good, (I believe that to be preference). A word of caution: polypropylene caps tend to be larger than polyesters of a similar value. Before you order, be sure the replacements will fit!

Polystyrene capacitors are the best you can buy easily. (Teflon caps are reputed to be even better, but unless you're NASA you probably can't get them in small quantities.) They are only available in small values (up to about 0.05F), and they're easy to damage with a soldering iron, but they sound wonderful: clean and clear, with lots of detail and no high end grittyness.
 
Hi guys,
please help me :) !

I'm novice in electronics !

I got the 1176LN Rev D board and the components from the Mnats Mouser lists.

Hyder said that's Ok for the C23 with 100V.

what about C8 ?
I got MKP2 .15/100/10A but I need MKP2 .15/100/5. 10A is OK ?

C9 ?
I got MKP2 .22/250/10 but I need MKP2 .22/100/5 => ????

C22 ?
I got MKS2 .22/100/10 but I need MKS2 .22/63/10 => ????

C27 ?
I need MKP2-.022/100/5 and ??? I got 2xMKP2 .15/100/10A => ???

Are my components good ?
sorry for my bad english :((

 

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