[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[Hyder]

Hi guys,
please help me !

I'm novice in electronics !

I got the 1176LN Rev D board and the components from the Mnats Mouser lists.

Hyder said that's Ok for the C23 with 100V.

what about C8 ?
I got MKP2 .15/100/10A but I need MKP2 .15/100/5. 10A is OK ?

C9 ?
I got MKP2 .22/250/10 but I need MKP2 .22/100/5 => ????

C22 ?
I got MKS2 .22/100/10 but I need MKS2 .22/63/10 => ????

C27 ?
I need MKP2-.022/100/5 and ??? I got 2xMKP2 .15/100/10A => ???

Are my components good ?
sorry for my bad english (

Your fine, that last number is tolerance 5% or 10%

 

[germoju]

Hi guys,
please help me !

I'm novice in electronics !

I got the 1176LN Rev D board and the components from the Mnats Mouser lists.

Hyder said that's Ok for the C23 with 100V.

what about C8 ?
I got MKP2 .15/100/10A but I need MKP2 .15/100/5. 10A is OK ?

C9 ?
I got MKP2 .22/250/10 but I need MKP2 .22/100/5 => ????

C22 ?
I got MKS2 .22/100/10 but I need MKS2 .22/63/10 => ????

C27 ?
I need MKP2-.022/100/5 and ??? I got 2xMKP2 .15/100/10A => ???

Are my components good ?
sorry for my bad english (

Your fine, that last number is tolerance 5% or 10%

Thank you so much Hyder
just to be sure :

-on the C8 I put the MKP2 .15/100/10A
-on the C9 I put the MKS2 .22/100/10
-on the C22 I put the SMR7.5224K100K (100V-0.22uF-10%)
-on the C27 I put the MKP2 .022/250/10

All is correct ?

 

[Hyder]

Hi guys,
please help me !

I'm novice in electronics !

I got the 1176LN Rev D board and the components from the Mnats Mouser lists.

Hyder said that's Ok for the C23 with 100V.

what about C8 ?
I got MKP2 .15/100/10A but I need MKP2 .15/100/5. 10A is OK ?

C9 ?
I got MKP2 .22/250/10 but I need MKP2 .22/100/5 => ????

C22 ?
I got MKS2 .22/100/10 but I need MKS2 .22/63/10 => ????

C27 ?
I need MKP2-.022/100/5 and ??? I got 2xMKP2 .15/100/10A => ???

Are my components good ?
sorry for my bad english (

Your fine, that last number is tolerance 5% or 10%

Thank you so much Hyder
just to be sure :

-on the C8 I put the MKP2 .15/100/10A
-on the C9 I put the MKS2 .22/100/10
-on the C22 I put the SMR7.5224K100K (100V-0.22uF-10%)
-on the C27 I put the MKP2 .022/250/10

All is correct ?

Wait, C27 is .022    .15 is the wrong value. I would order the correct part. Mouser sent me several wrong parts.

 

[germoju]

Hi guys,
please help me !

I'm novice in electronics !

I got the 1176LN Rev D board and the components from the Mnats Mouser lists.

Hyder said that's Ok for the C23 with 100V.

what about C8 ?
I got MKP2 .15/100/10A but I need MKP2 .15/100/5. 10A is OK ?

C9 ?
I got MKP2 .22/250/10 but I need MKP2 .22/100/5 => ????

C22 ?
I got MKS2 .22/100/10 but I need MKS2 .22/63/10 => ????

C27 ?
I need MKP2-.022/100/5 and ??? I got 2xMKP2 .15/100/10A => ???

Are my components good ?
sorry for my bad english (

Your fine, that last number is tolerance 5% or 10%

Thank you so much Hyder
just to be sure :

-on the C8 I put the MKP2 .15/100/10A
-on the C9 I put the MKS2 .22/100/10
-on the C22 I put the SMR7.5224K100K (100V-0.22uF-10%)
-on the C27 I put the MKP2 .022/250/10

All is correct ?

Wait, C27 is .022    .15 is the wrong value. I would order the correct part. Mouser sent me several wrong parts.

yes,
in my last message I correct it.
-on the C27 I can put the MKP2 .022/250/10 ??

 

[Hyder]

Hi guys,
please help me !

I'm novice in electronics !

I got the 1176LN Rev D board and the components from the Mnats Mouser lists.

Hyder said that's Ok for the C23 with 100V.

what about C8 ?
I got MKP2 .15/100/10A but I need MKP2 .15/100/5. 10A is OK ?

C9 ?
I got MKP2 .22/250/10 but I need MKP2 .22/100/5 => ????

C22 ?
I got MKS2 .22/100/10 but I need MKS2 .22/63/10 => ????

C27 ?
I need MKP2-.022/100/5 and ??? I got 2xMKP2 .15/100/10A => ???

Are my components good ?
sorry for my bad english (

Your fine, that last number is tolerance 5% or 10%

Thank you so much Hyder
just to be sure :

-on the C8 I put the MKP2 .15/100/10A
-on the C9 I put the MKS2 .22/100/10
-on the C22 I put the SMR7.5224K100K (100V-0.22uF-10%)
-on the C27 I put the MKP2 .022/250/10

All is correct ?

Wait, C27 is .022    .15 is the wrong value. I would order the correct part. Mouser sent me several wrong parts.

yes,
in my last message I correct it.
-on the C27 I can put the MKP2 .022/250/10 ??

Your good then, it's just a higher volt rating. You can go higher, but not lower than the volt rating.

 

[germoju]

Hi guys,
please help me !

I'm novice in electronics !

I got the 1176LN Rev D board and the components from the Mnats Mouser lists.

Hyder said that's Ok for the C23 with 100V.

Your fine, that last number is tolerance 5% or 10%

Thank you so much Hyder
just to be sure :

-on the C8 I put the MKP2 .15/100/10A
-on the C9 I put the MKS2 .22/100/10
-on the C22 I put the SMR7.5224K100K (100V-0.22uF-10%)
-on the C27 I put the MKP2 .022/250/10

All is correct ?

Wait, C27 is .022    .15 is the wrong value. I would order the correct part. Mouser sent me several wrong parts.

yes,
in my last message I correct it.
-on the C27 I can put the MKP2 .022/250/10 ??

Your good then, it's just a higher volt rating. You can go higher, but not lower than the volt rating.

Houuuuu YES ! I can go like that... it was the WAR in my head for a few hours
The C9 and C22 are the same caracteristics but not the same reference ? right ? (.22/100/10)

 

[gemini86]

c9 is .22
c27 .022

 

[germoju]

Well I assume there are some people like me who never get sick of seeing finished projects so here goes...

Disclaimer: Sorry these pics suck...I am the worst photographer on the planet. 

Here are a pair of beauties a built over the holidays.

Front of Both

VU and Pushbuttons

Inside one unit...they both look the same inside 

Rear of VU showing pushbutton mounting discussed in other thread

I had a great time...no major issues.

Notes:
-  I have RCA connectors on the back for eventual stereo connection.  I will deal with this later.
-  Put the "0 adjust" multi turn put up near the front panel using a little bracket...adjustable through a hole in the front like the original.
-  Mounting the pushbuttons with a set screw and a little J-B Weld seems solid.  Very solid.
-  GR Disable is on the attack knob like the original.
-  Both units are reading a THD+N of 0.036% following the Purple Audio procedure.  I believe this to be good.
-  One of the unit's ratios are a little high (around 6.5, 12, 15, 30 if I recall).  The other unit's ratios are correct.  I'll look into this in a bit...too tired right now.
- Used Skylar's input grounding technique...both units are dead quiet.
- I mounted my on board trimmers backwards...which is fine...just have to turn the trimmers in the opposite direction the calibration manuals say...but you haven't built yours yet...go the opposite way I did

I think that's it!

I'm lending them to a local studio for a few weeks to get some feedback.  They have a pair of original D's and will give them a good work and provide a better review than I could give.

Thanks Mako and everyone who chips in on the thread!

Mike

I want to write something on my 1176LN like yours = How to do that ?

 

[germoju]

I'm using the "search" button but I dont know how the find the information about Voltage...
Here in France it's 220V... and I'm buikding a Mnats Rev D 1176 with Hairball kit... I will have trouble ???

 

[germoju]

I'm using the "search" button but I dont know how the find the information about Voltage...
Here in France it's 220V... and I'm building a "Mnats Rev D 1176LN" with Hairball kit... I will have trouble ???

 

[Echo North]

I built those a long time ago, before I sold enclosures.  Those are engraved from frontpanel express (Par-metal cases).

If you wanted to add a personal touch to your cases I would do a search for water slide decals.

Read the MNATs wiring pages to understand how to wire the power transformer for 220V mains.

 

[erjos]

To college101
I think I got smth for you. Regarding the -8.x volts on the negative rail. I had the same issue when buiding mine. That kinda come out from following the wiring guide from mnats site. The power supply mains trafo. Mnats explains there that you should twist the two 0volts wires together,which in Avel Lindbergh trafo are the red and black (if i remember correctly). BUT for the +- power supply that we need as per the mnats explanations you should connect the two center taps which are the red and orange wires. If you have the trafo and maybe all the kit from hairballaudio,it's most likely that you don't have the right connections for the +\- power supply. Just try connecting the red and orange together for the Ct position on the board and you will have the right voltages in the main rails. From that point on,all your calibration steps will be lost and you should start calibrating from the beginning,with definitely (hopefully) better results
Hope this helps
Regards

 

[jamesn81]

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to say that at the time of this post, I ordered a Hairball Rev D kit and board from mnats and my unit is fully working.

While there are a few quirks with the bom, schematic and videos - I found the process to be successful and rewarding.

I'm not an experienced DIYer by any means (other than Seventh Circle pres, this is my first full DIY project), but I feel that if you are meticulous about checking parts, your soldering and wiring techniques and checking errata on this forum and elsewhere on mnats' site - you can do it.

James

 

[edanderson]

...the wiring guide from mnats site. The power supply mains trafo. Mnats explains there that you should twist the two 0volts wires together ... BUT for the +- power supply that we need as per the mnats explanations you should connect the two center taps ...

erjos is trying to be helpful, but it seems that he did not read or did not follow the instructions linked on the mnats wiring guide.

To begin, have a look at Mark Burnley's illustration of typical power transformer configurations (hosted by DIY Factory).

http://web.archive.org/web/20090914070140/http://www.diyfactory.com/data/transformer_connections.gif

AC Power Transformer Secondary Wiring

Refer again to Mark Burnley's transformer connections. Under the "Typical Output Configurations" we'll be using the "Split Secondary for +/- Power Supply".

Just make absolutely sure you have tied the two "0V (centre tap)" wires together as indicated in Mr. Burnley's illustration.

the part that can be confusing is that some power transformers (but not all) will label one end of a winding as the 0V end.  unfortunately that does not correspond to the "0V (centre tap)" shown in mark burnley's diagram.  if you look at the burnley diagram and follow the instructions on the mnats wiring guide, you should end up with the correct connection - where you CREATE a center tap by connecting two windings together in series.  if you don't look at both the burnley diagram and the mnats instructions, you may end up assuming (as erjos probably did) that you should connect whichever the two ends that are labelled 0V on the transformer itself or the transformer datasheet together.

like most things with this project, you have to really read and *understand* why certain things are connected the way that they are.

ed

 

[erjos]

Yes Ed,as always you are 100% right. In my trafo it was that not the center tap but the two starting wires of the windings are labelled as 0volts. So it confounded me at the beginning who was right Bluney or mnats. It comes out that they are both right but the Mnats explanation may be confounding. I think it's better for mnants explanations not to mention at all the 0volts but only the center tap,as this may result in misleading and errors because of the different transformer manufacturers labeling.
All this is an error I made that can help others during building. As College101 says he is having issues with the -rails (I was having -7.8 because of this) I think that one of the possible causes is wrong transformer wiring.
By the way Your 5002transformer is really great
Regards, Erjos

 

[college101]

Thanks Erjos for trying

I looked into that at the beggining, and then went back threw the site...I followed the info on Mark's site and connected it the correct way..

I brought my 76 to class, and some of my friends gave me a few spots to look over..I have corrected some of the issues with my soldering

Right now, I have the 1176 on a one day power on with the case on....My basement is pretty cold out here in the midwest...dont think that is causing any problems with it, but I will try and do a full re-cal in the next day or so

 

[edanderson]

hi erjos,

i agree that it can be confusing when two diagrams both indicate 0V, but they are referring to different situations.  the diagram on the transformer itself (or datasheet) is indicating that one end is 12V when the other end is 0V.  mark burnley's diagram is equally correct, that when the two windings tied together are 0V the other two wires are both 12V.  it is important to understand why both of these are true, and what the difference is.


college101,

i doubt that the cold would really cause the problems you've been describing, but a warmup period is good in any case.  hopefully this will work out soon and you can start enjoying the compressor.  a long debug process get's annoying after a while, but hopefully you've learned some things along the way.

ed

 

[college101]

Thanks Ed

The debugging is becoming crazy...I got every transistor within the ballpark right now...

I will be trying to re cal today...to see if it works...

 

[TijuanaKez]

Ok I replaced C1 and all the 2N3391s and changed r18 to 180k. Now the voltages at the transistors match up with the schematic (http://mnats.net/files/1176REVD_VOLTS.pdf) and I can step through the calibration without any issues.

Something is still not right however, my ratio seems to be backwards and not affecting the compression much.

After the calibration with the 1khz 0db test tone still running and the unit set for 10db GR at 20:1, I stepped through the ratios and recorded the meter readings (attachment).

With a higher ratio you would expect more gain reduction and less output but mine seems to be backwards.

I have check all the resistors in the GR section and on the ratio board and they are correct.

Any ideas?

 

[Echo North]

It's actually correct.

As the ratio gets higher on 1176 (moving from 4:1 to 20:1), the threshhold gets higher.  So you "see" less GR.

To see the ratio, you compare the input to output over a couple different points.  Keeping in mind your ratio decreases toward the "knee" and FET saturation.

Mike

Edit:  Link about measuring ratios:
http://www.axtsystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54:1176lnratios&catid=34:1176ln&Itemid=62