[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[edanderson]

it is pretty difficult to desolder and remove components from PCBs and the replace them more than one or two times without doing damage to the PCB, so don't feel bad if you've cracked a trace or lifted a pad, etc.  all of that can eventually be fixed with jumper wires if you figure out what the problem is.

what kind of soldering iron and tip are you using?  having a good quality, regulated temperature, pencil style iron with a reasonable size small chisel tip makes all the soldering much easier, and reduces the chance of damaging the PCB or components.  you don't need to spend a lot of money, but it is worth spending at least $50 - $100 for a good iron.

ed

 

[sr1200]

If i can suggest one more thing for ya college... (dunno if you tried this yet) but if you take the trimmer OFF the board, and solder leads to the TOP 3 holes in the R44 area (leave the holes that go down towards the edge of the board alone) and wire the trimmer in using some hookup wire (wrap it in some electrical tape leaving the trimmer adjust accessible)  Once thats wired in, see what happens.  I just took the trimmer off my board and got the big old pot that gets mounted to the font panel via the standoffs, and I noticed that the trimmer worked a lot "differently" than when i had the little trimmer on the board.

 

[college101]

sr1200...You should see my older post's! I did that...both ways...still had the same problem


Thanks Ed

I bought a brand new WES 51 weller..the blue one.. and I love it...  Just had all kinds of problems with R44... Second time should be better then the first

Im using the pencil tip and the chisel tip to solder around 650 degree's...

 

[MadHans]

Hi,
I am building my first 1176 rev D, and things are going pretty good, thanks to mnat's great wiring guides 
I have a question about the power transformer wiring though:

I use a brown wire for "live" and a blue wire for "neutral" from the IEC connector to the PWR switch. On the Avel-Lindberg transformer sold by Hairball I solder the primary brown wire behind the brown on the IEC, and the primary blue wire behind the blue on the IEC, and solder the primary grey and violet wires together(as per instructions). So far so good. I think this is right.

Looking at other transformers, the top primary wire(dotted) is the "Live" or "L", and the bottom primary wire is the "Neutral" or "N". This should mean that the L is blue and the N is brown on the Avel-Lindberg on the primary side(with the grey and violet soldered together for a series 240v setup). And that is the opposite of what the IEC codes are supposed to be.

I don't think it will affect anything, since it is AC. But it seems like the N and L is reversed and its way from the AC inlet to the transformer.. Am I correct??

Thanks

Hans Jacob

 

[davidadowning]

Hi Guys,

I've just finished my Rev D after having to fix and replace a few things. Its passing audio ok and seems to be compressing but now I'm trying to calibrate it and I'm having the same problem as a few other people on here. The "Q" bias and discrete meter circuit calibrations are fine but in the last calibration doesn't seem to be working properly. Fed with a 0dBu sine , input pot halfway, ratio of 20 and meter on +4 mode as instructed, when switching in and out of bypass with the attack pot there is no drop at all, where the tutorial says there it should drop ~10dB. It only starts compressing when the input is turned almost all the way up, and then only a small amount. The 1176 is definitely compressing, as I can hear it when set to a lower ratio. Basically seems like the threshold is set too high. With a ratio of 4, 0dBu sine input, roughly what position should the input pot be at when it just starts to compress? Any idea how I could have got the threshold too high by accident?

I've also looked around and found i've got a spare .15uf cap left from the build. The mouser cart from Hairball has 2 in it but i can only see one need for C8??

I know a few guys on here have had the same problems so any help would be much appreciated

 

[sr1200]

I've found it more useful to start the input at 50% and the output at 0.  Once you apply the signal (with attack OFF), bring up the OUTPUT till you get to 0.  (you will barely have to turn it up to get the needle to fly over, this is ok)

Turn ON the attack (you should see the drop)
Adjust the OUTPUT till you get to -10
Turn the attack OFF (the needle will fly up past 0)
Adjust your INPUT (down) till you get back to 0
Turn the attack ON and you should be REALLY close to getting it 0 to -10.

 

[germoju]

hi, the stupid french back again !!! Yes it's me !!!

I got a question but I am ashamed. It's about Wires. As I said I'm french and my english is not perfect !! So I'm on the Mnats "Wiring the Rev A/D/F" page but I dont find info about wire diameter etc.
Please someone can tell me what kind of wires I need  ? I'm a beginner, I just need to be reassured !!

 

[sr1200]

I think im using 22 ga for everything except the ground which is like 12 or 16 or some crazy thick stuff.

 

[davidadowning]

sr1200, that worked perfectly  Thanks

Thanks to mnats for the boards and all the online guidance and thanks to hairball for the kit.

Heres a link to the pictures of the build beginning to end if anyones interested

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150415883954665.410179.746769664&type=1&l=4605635c8f

Cheers again guys

 

[germoju]

sr1200, that worked perfectly  Thanks

Thanks to mnats for the boards and all the online guidance and thanks to hairball for the kit.

Heres a link to the pictures of the build beginning to end if anyones interested

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150415883954665.410179.746769664&type=1&l=4605635c8f

Cheers again guys

Thanks for your pictures man !!

 

[spase]

can i use this substitutes?
2N3707 = BC 184
2N3391 = BC 183
2N5457 = 2SK 246
Thank you

 

[zorg]

Which cables for internal wiring the 1176 hairball kit?
could you guys give me a mouser link?
Thx

 

[erjos]

To Spase
Ooops the usual Ballkan supply and material availability problems.
I build my second 1176 entirely with Bc549 and Bc 107. I matched the 549 with Hfe more than 270 and everything was ok. BUT BE CAREFUL. Its very easy to misplece the legs of the transistors,as those 2N have the Base on the first leg. I havent tried the 2sk but it should be ok too. You should only do an acurate Fet Matching procedure here and per my memory they have the legs in reverse to 5457.
Regards

 

[ilfungo]

I'm doing 2 x 1176 with the same PSU
someone can tell me which links I do on main PCB? ( image )

some of you have experienced with R-OPT1 Threshold?
with what pot value  ?
Thanks

 

[college101]

Im back, and ready to build again...Now that this semester is over

Should I manually pick my parts, or use the parts from Kato's list!

 

[sr1200]

depends on what you're using off the board (are you using the hairball kit?)  If so theres probably things that you need that ARENT listed on the BOM (such as the 5w 220/240 ohm resistor for the VU lamps) I know theres still some errors on the MNATS BOM on his site (few resistors are not right (off the top of my head theres a 1.5K thats missing and if youre using the hairball switches theres a 8.2K resistor missing from the BOM, but if youre using the rotary switches you're ok)  There was one other resistor that was wrong on that BOM.... r25 is a 6.8K.  I just finished up wiring my second revD and those resistors above is all i was missing.

 

[college101]

The 240 5 watt resistor, is on the site...in the VU section

For R25- your not using a 2.7M resistor? my Q4 voltages were dead on exact with that value on my board?

I am using the hairball kit, with the push button switches

 

[sr1200]

sorry my bad was supposed to say R15 not 25... damn fat fingers lol
(and R12 is supposed to be 1.8K not 920 as it may appear on the board (mine did)

***R64 was missing of my BOM for some reason and the Hairball board (the one on the right of the meter with the off switch ) has an 8.2K that wasnt on the BOM that I had.

 

[mnats]

I know theres still some errors on the MNATS BOM on his site (few resistors are not right (off the top of my head theres a 1.5K thats missing and if youre using the hairball switches theres a 8.2K resistor missing from the BOM, but if youre using the rotary switches you're ok)  ...  I just finished up wiring my second revD and those resistors above is all i was missing.

I cannot confirm any of these omissions on the current BOM. Can you show exactly where they occur so I can correct them?

(and R12 is supposed to be 1.8K not 920 as it may appear on the board (mine did)

This is mentioned at least three times on my site and has been discussed in David Kulka's post. The current BOM shows the correct value.

 

[sr1200]

Yes, the R12 thing was for College who may have missed that on the site  :

the BOM I had downloaded and printed from the site about a week ago is now different than the one that is coming up today... very odd.  The one I looked at last week had R15 as a 7.5k, and only had R34 and R76 as 8.2k (was missing R77) unless there are 2 different 1176LN_REVD_V2.2_DOC.pdf files on your server it looks correct now. 

The only other thing would be the 5W resistor for the hailball VU. 
Sorry about the confusion is there was any.