[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

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I have finished my build. Calibrated the unit.
Will do some further testing and run some sounds into it.

is it normal to bang the meter with all buttons in? :-[

Thank you all for help. You people rock!
 
I didn't even start to build mine, so i can write only what i think, but it's not proved in practice.
I think it's normal, and for correction You have trimmer on a front plate (if You build like in original).
I know commercial sold version based on mnats boards, which works similar. 
It's correct? I really don't know, but the guy who build and sold them takes for each circa 1140$:)
 
Two more questions:

If you change FET's do you need to re-calibrate?

Does 1176 need some time to warm up in order to perform at its optimal?

I have noticed when I crank the input almost all the way up, I hear some unpleasant almost crackling distortion.  Is this normal?
 
Someone know the 5002 connection method?

The following pictures connected correctly?

5002 grounding line put so?

Please help, thank you!
 

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andydiy said:
Someone know the 5002 connection method?

The following pictures connected correctly?

5002 grounding line put so?

Please help, thank you!

Everything You have on schematic in v2.2 pdf from mnats site.
If it's not clear to You, try to read from original schematic (page 52).
It's the same of course but little bit different drawing.

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage%20JBL-UREI%20Electronics/UREI-1176LNmanual.pdf
 
Mr_tea said:
Still not getting the correct voltages on Q3. should I replace the transistor?

Did You use 2N3391 on Q3?
Check every nearest components to Q3. Values of resistors, electrolytics polarity etc.
I'm planning to mount transistors in sockets. It's very useful.
 
hi everybody !

I got a distortion trouble on my new rev D.
I already builded 4x rev A, 4x rev F and 2x Rev D without "big" troubles....

But today I got a problem I never had...
All my Q values are correct voltage. In fact, it's the first time I'm so very close to the Mnats values :)
I'm 29,9 V and -9,7 V and Q1 to Q13 are fine.

I did the calibration 3 times but the sound is distorted a little bit... but too much ! I played with Dist Trim but nothin change....

I have a doubt about the 3th step when adjusting -10dB with Tracking adjustment. When it's good , I mean -10db with comp and 0 without comp, this trimmer is turned at the maximum... I never had this....

Do you think the INPUT transfo can be HS ?
Someone have an idea ?
 
Mr_tea said:
Still not getting the correct voltages on Q3. should I replace the transistor?

What have you changed since your last post about Q3?

Mr_tea said:
Wouldnt a incorrect voltage at Q3 make all other voltages incorrect?

Didn't you write earlier that the voltages for Q2 were OK?

Mr_tea said:
Is the signal tracer just to measure continuity? because I have that setting on my multimeter and have been using that.

A cursory look at the document linked from my site would answer your question.
 
    Wouldnt a incorrect voltage at Q3 make all other voltages incorrect?


Didn't you write earlier that the voltages for Q2 were OK?



The voltages at Q2 are ok. I havent changed anything since then. They were only displaying wrong voltages initially because i was using the wrong setting on my multimeter. The voltages after Q3 are not correct. Would this not be a direct effect of a broken transistor? I'm waiting on some more to replace the part and see if that fixes it.
 
andydiy said:
The following picture, Capacitors value is correct?

I assume that you do not have much in common with the electronics ...
Do not take offense but Your questions are really weird .
All you have described by mnats, drawing PCB, numbered capacitor values ​​...
With what you have a problem? Just read.
This is no longer even a knowledge of electronics is needed.
I really do not write this maliciously, but long threads like this it's hard to read, if there is a lot of silly posts.

On PCB caps values are ok.
 
Sorry to make you trouble, because Mnats to the Bom, C8 / C9, / C22 Part Nimber different, I want to be sure.

We are sorry!

ln76d said:
andydiy said:
The following picture, Capacitors value is correct?

I assume that you do not have much in common with the electronics ...
Do not take offense but Your questions are really weird .
All you have described by mnats, drawing PCB, numbered capacitor values ​​...
With what you have a problem? Just read.
This is no longer even a knowledge of electronics is needed.
I really do not write this maliciously, but long threads like this it's hard to read, if there is a lot of silly posts.

On PCB caps values are ok.
 
andydiy said:
Sorry to make you trouble, because Mnats to the Bom, C8 / C9, / C22 Part Nimber different, I want to be sure.

We are sorry!

http://mnats.net/files/1176LN_REVD_V2.2_DOC.pdf
Did You using this?
It seems to me that everything looks fine.
 
Is this.

http://mnats.net/files/1176LN_REVD_V2.2_DOC.pdf

Purchase single is this.

http://hairballaudio.com/bom/RevD.pdf

ln76d said:
andydiy said:
Sorry to make you trouble, because Mnats to the Bom, C8 / C9, / C22 Part Nimber different, I want to be sure.

We are sorry!

http://mnats.net/files/1176LN_REVD_V2.2_DOC.pdf
Did You using this?
It seems to me that everything looks fine.
 
I guess what you mean ...

It not need to be exactly capacitors from the same manufacturer as listed and no need to be for the same voltage. Will this be MKS or MKP is also not so very important. They sound a little different, but do You hear a difference on one capacitor - i doubt.
Important is that the capacitor voltage ratings can't be less than specified, it can always be higher.
Important is leading space of caps, should be same as specified.
 
Thank you for your help!

ln76d said:
I guess what you mean ...

It not need to be exactly capacitors from the same manufacturer as listed and no need to be for the same voltage. Will this be MKS or MKP is also not so very important. They sound a little different, but do You hear a difference on one capacitor - i doubt.
Important is that the capacitor voltage ratings can't be less than specified, it can always be higher.
Important is leading space of caps, should be same as specified.
 
Hi all,

I recently started my first Hairball 1176D build only to run into an early problem. I'm at the stage of testing the power rails and I seem to not be getting any power out of the transformer (Avel-Lindberg). After no readings at the 30v and -10v points on the pcb, I started working upstream. I tested the secondaries by probing between the red/orange pairing and the yellow, then black wires directly off the transformer by removing the wires from my terminal block (is this the correct way to measure secondaries?). No reading whatsoever. I then tested all combinations of the secondaries and still no reading.

I've verified that I'm getting 110v mains power (I'm in US) out of the meter switch to the brown/grey and blue/violet primary pairs. I've followed the Mnats AC wiring verbatim as far as I can tell, but I'd be grateful if anyone could please take a look at the following photos and let me know if you see any anomalies in my AC power circuit. Barring this, my next step would be to de-solder the primary pairs from the switch and wire them directly to the IEC terminals to more accurately test the transformer.

Many thanks!

Jason
 

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