[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[crisotop]

I haven't had a look for the correct value, but waht about a 500R in series with your 1k pot?

regards,
christoph

 

[fazeka]

I´ve had the same problem but i actually fit by putting some more pressure in the Pot against the hole. But sanding the extra pannel in the purusha case may be the sollution.

No good. I put more pressure and still not enough threads on the bushing to get the nuts started.

So I just opened up the panel to allow the pots to sit right up against the faceplate.

Should do the trick.

 

[carnitas]

hey all, i've been having some grounding issues with my dual rev. D
I'm a little confused as i think i've read some conflicting information about appropriate grounding schemes and i may have synthesized some different ideas.  i'll start with the symptoms:

-low level hum in both channels when fully connected and powered up. 
-gain reduction is functional and sounds great. 


Grounding to chassis (star ground):
-IEC connector
-outputs on both channels (through the relay boards)
-ground input on both boards (terminal between positive and negative voltage terminals)

relavent information:
-PSU for boards (next to power transformer) is connected to the boards ground terminal, which in turn is grounded to the chassis
-PSU for relays and LEDs is not grounded to chassis (i tried to connect it to chassis ground and noticed no change)
-inputs were connected to the chassis as well, but then i disconnected them.  No change.
-I DON'T have pad 22 going to the chassis, which i've read is one appropriate way to ground the boards. 
-power transformer is an Avel Lindberg 30VA 25 + 25
questions:
-are the PSUs too far apart?
-should the PSU and power transformer be sheilded in an enclosure? (either within the case or externally)?


i appreciate any help anyone could give.  generally, i'm very happy with my first DIY project and this has been sort of fun to trouble-shoot.
http://s721.photobucket.com/albums/ww219/carnitas/?action=view&current=1176grounding2.jpg
http://s721.photobucket.com/albums/ww219/carnitas/?action=view&current=1176004.jpg
thanks to anybody who is willing to give a look.
jj

 

[rrs]

RE: Wiring diagram below.

There are some extra links I would like to know about. D8 to R87 and D11 to CR6 .

sorry if i am getting off topic a little here, but i thought i'd post the wiring diagram i used to get my dual rev. d functional.  i used all the parts that are now conveniently located at Hairball audio. It proved very useful for me while i was wiring the thing up.  As Skylar graciously posted his diagram for the vers. 1 board, i thought i'd post mine (vers. 2 board) as it has the updated wiring info for the OT and rotary switch and meter boards.  I lifted Skylar's grounding scheme for the layout (my unit is terrifically quiet!). 

Also, in regards to the polarity of the OT wiring, my unit is wired with the blue on cold (-) and red on hot (+) and i'm not having any oscillation problems.  Matta_Haze, is your unit working at 100% now that you switched your wiring around?  it makes me wonder if i'm missing something.....   


BTW, this was my first build.  Took a while.  lots of screw ups.  lots of reading.  totally worth it. 

 

[carnitas]

rrs, those links are used because i did not use the on-board power supply.  I powered two boards from one of mnats little psu supplies and so jumped the PSU circuit for the boards. 

The jumpers need to go from CR7 to R87 and from CR10 to CR6
i updated the pdf that i'd posted a while back and fixed it to include those designations.  Also realized that the meter wiring was backwards in the diagram which i fixed as well as  the PSU jumper from CR7 to R87 (previously it was going to the wrong side of R87.) 

if you've been following the diagram to wire your board(s) up, be wary the grounding scheme.  i've got some hum in there (mentioned above) and am still trying to figure that out. 

 

[pantsonfire]

You need at least 1K, 2K will work without any problem.

Sorry for the slow re-reply.
Thanks very much for the info.

Best,
Chris

 

[canidoit]

Is this ground mod worth adding to the 1176 Rev D. It's used on the Drip La2a Version 3 Board. Would I need to change any of the configuration for it to work like change the resistors and the caps? Anyone use some type of grounding like this before on their 1176 Rev D and did it work or is it not worth putting in?

 

[canidoit]

I´ve had the same problem but i actually fit by putting some more pressure in the Pot against the hole. But sanding the extra pannel in the purusha case may be the sollution.

No good. I put more pressure and still not enough threads on the bushing to get the nuts started.

So I just opened up the panel to allow the pots to sit right up against the faceplate.

Should do the trick.

What tools did you use to cut those out perfectly.

 

[canidoit]

J and D are same for stereo linking (pin 7, on both = .22uf / 3.9Mohm connection)

sorry if i was asking too much... i am pretty new here...

Are you saying that pin 7 is the tip(hot) of the connector in a TS socket for stereo link? Is pin 7 send or return? Where is send and return for the stereo link though? Where do you get the shield or S part of the socket, do you just grab the ground from the case?

 

[canidoit]

Where is the latest, I am talking the super latest, current, tried and tested wiring diagram for the Mnats 1176 Rev D board with Push Buttons? I have 3 versions and I am concerned that I do not have the latest, non faulty, no updates needed wiring diagram.

Is it this one here SG-1176-RevD-Wiring_ALLv3.pdf the latest????

http://www.filefactory.com/file/ag514d3/n/SG-1176-RevD-Wiring_ALLv3_pdf

 

[ewald]

Hi canidoit,

Mako's (mnats) wiring guide on his web page (and the schem for refference) is all you need. 

This was my 1st  diy aswell and she fired up 1st time.
Take the time to learn about the circuit and build in general before you start. A crucial read is the original urei manual.(and read all 40 odd pages of this thread to warm ya self up!) 

Make a point of not painting her by numbers & you'll be sure to learn heck of allot and avoid  troubleshooting someting you know nothing of!(troubleshooting will most likely be mandatory)

Cheers

Ewald

 

[Echo North]

Well said Ewald.

The original schematic is the most tried and tested wiring guide.  Other then a few obvious changes for the D, Mako's site goes through the wiring step by step.

http://www.waltzingbear.com/Schematics/Urei.html

Mike

 

[canidoit]

Can this 1176 build do "All Button Mode"? I am using the Hairball pushbutton parts and board.

Hairball, I was going thru your Push Button board manual and the parts list on your manual do not match the BOM North American link you gave me. Like for example, you have a resistor there that's 1/2 watt which on the BOM is 1/4 watt. You also have more resistors. Should I follow your manual that came with your boards for the push buttons?

Also the addition of the connector for the push button boards are great : ), very pro. You should supply them with your boards. Those connectos are not in the BOM which I purchased seperately.

 

[Stagefright13]

I didn't use any connectors on all 3 of mine. I soldered the wires straight to the boards. And nuke works fine with the buttons just like the original.

John

 

[tman]

Hey all;

Got my rev d up and running. I've got one issue that I can't seem to find an answer to.
Upon trying to do the Q-bias calibration, if i turn R59 CW, the meter only rises, and I cannot get a 1db drop. I've scoured all sources online, but I can't find any mention of this. If anyone can point my in some direction I'd greatly appreciate it.

Tony

 

[mnats]

Hey all;

Got my rev d up and running. I've got one issue that I can't seem to find an answer to.
Upon trying to do the Q-bias calibration, if i turn R59 CW, the meter only rises, and I cannot get a 1db drop. I've scoured all sources online, but I can't find any mention of this. If anyone can point my in some direction I'd greatly appreciate it.

Tony

Hint: if you turn it in the other direction, does it drop?

 

[tman]

Mnats;

Yes it does!!

 

[Dean Roddey]

I did a search and only saw one person mention this and no one answered...

R12 calls for a 920ohm, right? It was previously I guess a 1.8K. Anybody have a source for one of those? Neither Mouser nor Digikey seems to have these in stock, though I could just not be searching correctly. Would a 1K really affect things particularly much if a 920 wasn't readily available?

 

[canidoit]

I did a search and only saw one person mention this and no one answered...

R12 calls for a 920ohm, right? It was previously I guess a 1.8K. Anybody have a source for one of those? Neither Mouser nor Digikey seems to have these in stock, though I could just not be searching correctly. Would a 1K really affect things particularly much if a 920 wasn't readily available?

I had the same problem. I think you have like a tollerance range where you can be off by so and so. I was able to get 910ohm. Heres the link.

271-910-RC – Xicon $0.13 US 500v 0.25w 1%
http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintaoUUGC3c4SIqA42TN1Yq7M=

I can send you my Exell spreadsheet if you want. I organised it pretty well with active links and made boxes so you can mark it when you print it out or mark it on Exell as you go along, buy the parts and solder, etc. Also made some references, notes and color coded what parts are used on the audio path so you can change the part if you like to alter the sound and also what supplier it is sourced from.

Always re-confirm my data though to make sure I have done it correctly.

Also take note on the Attack Pot in the BOM list. You need to get one with the SPDT switch built if you are using Purusha's case or cases that look like the original 1176 where the attack pot has the ability to turn off the attack. It looks silly if you don't have that feature in and its on your 1176 front markings.

 

[Dean Roddey]

I had the same problem. I think you have like a tollerance range where you can be off by so and so. I was able to get 910ohm. Heres the link.

271-910-RC – Xicon $0.13 US 500v 0.25w 1%

Thanks. I e-mailed them to add 2 of those to the order I just made, one plus a backup.