[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[rrs]

Hi guys I'm just starting this project.

One question - I have the Rev 2 board and have installed 1N4004 instead of 1N4003 (CR7,8,9,10) as I was reading version 1 instead when ordering. I have soldered these in before realizing.
Will I need to change these or would either be ok?

 

[jdbakker]

I have the Rev 2 board and have installed 1N4004 instead of 1N4003 (CR7,8,9,10) as I was reading version 1 instead when ordering. I have soldered these in before realizing.
Will I need to change these or would either be ok?

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=31224.0

JDB.

 

[ewald]

rrs, you're fine, the only difference between the IN4003/3's is power rating, i.e IN4004 can take more current.

Mike, thanks for your reply, I'm gonna recheck the whole thing and report back.(I'm counting on user error!!) I have been using it in studio this week and it rocked hard, only thing being that 4:1 not showing any GR on meter or by ear (with 22[shield to grnd] connected to ground) and even with ground removed I have to really push it to get a couple of db's GR.

ciao

 

[jdbakker]

the only difference between the IN4003/3's is power rating, i.e IN4004 can take more current.

That's incorrect. Power and current rating's exactly the same for all diodes in the 1N4001-1N4007 series.

JDB.
[one person's nit is another's major difference]

 

[ewald]

I stand 'correctified' sir! :-[ The difference in fact lies in the peak inverse/reverse voltage rating.I.e higher designations in the series can handle higher voltages.JDB-excuse my ignorance: rrs-you're still good to go.

regards

Ewald

 

[luis]

Hi,

I finish wiring my clone, and powered on for the first time. No smoke, and burned resistors/capacitors, but several probelms:

- Big Hum, and if put the output pot at Max value it starts to making some intermitent noise,
- The input pot (attenuator) doesn´t work, or at least I´ve noticed no difference when turning this pot.
- I connect an Audio source to input XLR and I could only barely hear it.
-

I´ve already disconnected everything to look at board carefully, to check for shorts, but i seems like don´t have any short on the board. I´ve populated it very carefully, and checked all resistor and capacitor values.

Help!

Considering the usuall procedures for problem checking, what would you suggest-me to do?


Thank you all,
Luis

 

[luis]

Is there any chart for this rev d, to check dc voltages as there is with other rev´s?

Thank you

 

[Echo North]

Double check all of your wiring.

Were you able to complete the calibration procedure?

Mike

 

[luis]

I will try today, but with the problems i have I thin there no calibration salvation for me!

Thanks  Mike

Hi,

I finish wiring my clone, and powered on for the first time. No smoke, and burned resistors/capacitors, but several probelms:

- Big Hum, and if put the output pot at Max value it starts to making some intermitent noise,
- The input pot (attenuator) doesn´t work, or at least I´ve noticed no difference when turning this pot.
- I connect an Audio source to input XLR and I could only barely hear it.
-

I´ve already disconnected everything to look at board carefully, to check for shorts, but i seems like don´t have any short on the board. I´ve populated it very carefully, and checked all resistor and capacitor values.

Help!

Considering the usuall procedures for problem checking, what would you suggest-me to do?


Thank you all,
Luis

 

[penguin]

How to i make dual/stereo link on 1176...
i did search for 3-4 hours... most links are broken,
and some left on old forum.
help will be appreciated

i am using rev J

 

[Stagefright13]

the schematic is here: http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage%20JBL-UREI%20Electronics/UREI-1176SA.pdf

Is very simple. And the 1176 schematic showing where it goes is here: http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage%20JBL-UREI%20Electronics/UREI-1176LNmanual.pdf

 

[penguin]

i have founded this :

Two 1176LNs can be stereo coupled by using the 1176SA or Stereo Interconnect Accessory. The stereo-coupled setup needs to be calibrated, and the attack and release controls on each unit interact; changing the controls on either unit will affect both units. In stereo coupling mode, the attack time is doubled, so the fastest attack time in stereo is 40 microseconds.
full article about 1176s is http://www.barryrudolph.com/mix/ua1176.html

what is this "Stereo Interconnect Accessory" ???
1176SA is the Stereo Interconnect Accessor it self isnt it? or means just bare phone cable....???

yes, whole thing is very simple:
but, there is this roomer that 1176SA's circuit values have had been changed... and it doesnt work properly...
ie: purple audio version never worked properly ( quote from prodigy forums)

so, my question is changed to:
where can i find this 1176SA circuit's  correct values

thank you for the links btw...

EDIT :
mnats comment on 1176SA

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=646.msg8731#msg8731

EDIT 2 :

1176SA only needed if your FETs are not matched!
if you have matched FETs you dont need 1176SA! just direct phone connection?

am i close?

 

[dissonantstring]

penguin,
if you are posting about stereo linking on your Rev.J (G1176), then why are you posting in the 1176 Rev.D thread? :

i linked my two G1176 Rev.H boards with the info i simply did a search for in the G1176 build thread.  you don't need an SA unit for the G1176 (just a wire) and no matter what you do you will not get perfect tracking of both channels (no one on this forum has to my knowledge). 

rather than stereo, just call it dual mono (like mnats usually does).

 

[penguin]

J and D are same for stereo linking (pin 7, on both = .22uf / 3.9Mohm connection)

sorry if i was asking too much... i am pretty new here...

 

[dissonantstring]

hi penguin,
sorry if i came off wrong, but if Rev.D and J are the same at linking...it's still just one wire (stereo link pad to stereo link pad - add a switch or connectors to your liking). 
regards,
grant

 

[penguin]

its all cool, not to worry. 

regards 
penguin

 

[fazeka]

Hi all,

Finally had some time to put together my 1176 Rev D this weekend, using Purusha's case with the inner front panel. Have a problem, however.

Seems my Alpha pots' bushings are not long enough (with the inner panel and the faceplate) to get the nut on.

How is everyone else using Purusha's case with Alphas getting around this malady?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[luis]

I´ve had the same problem but i actually fit by putting some more pressure in the Pot against the hole. But sanding the extra pannel in the purusha case may be the sollution.

 

[pantsonfire]

Well, I've used the search function and looked over the pages since Ver2 was introduced and read Mnats RevD page a few times and I still have to ask what seems like a redundant question...

What is the correct value for the Tracking Adjust trimmer R44?

I know it must be around here somewhere, but I've missed it apparently. Mnats' BOM lists a 1k and the board reads 2k. Mnats schematic lists it as "ADJ" and the Urei schematic has an asterisk, but no value that I can make out. The Ver1 BOM list a 1k resistor, but has a 2k trimmer in the layout file. Maybe it doesn't matter which, but I don't know that for sure so would someone please try to enlighten me? I don't want to solder in a 1k trimmer (which is what I have) and have to remove it because it won't adjust into the range I need. All the photos I've checked out have the values facing away from the camera.

Many thanks in advance,
Chris.   

 

[luis]

You need at least 1K, 2K will work without any problem.

Well, I've used the search function and looked over the pages since Ver2 was introduced and read Mnats RevD page a few times and I still have to ask what seems like a redundant question...

What is the correct value for the Tracking Adjust trimmer R44?

I know it must be around here somewhere, but I've missed it apparently. Mnats' BOM lists a 1k and the board reads 2k. Mnats schematic lists it as "ADJ" and the Urei schematic has an asterisk, but no value that I can make out. The Ver1 BOM list a 1k resistor, but has a 2k trimmer in the layout file. Maybe it doesn't matter which, but I don't know that for sure so would someone please try to enlighten me? I don't want to solder in a 1k trimmer (which is what I have) and have to remove it because it won't adjust into the range I need. All the photos I've checked out have the values facing away from the camera.

Many thanks in advance,
Chris.