[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[canidoit]

Anyone have any 2n3708 higher than 250 hfe that are excess to their builds, message me?

 

[crisotop]

If you can wait a couple of days, I'm currently selecting some...

cheers
christoph

 

[canidoit]

If you can wait a couple of days, I'm currently selecting some...

cheers
christoph

There is still hope 

It be better though if you were from Australia, saves on shipping costs.

 

[crisotop]

Austria/Australia, that's nearly the same (the old kangaroo/alps stereotype comes to mind...)

 

[Dean Roddey]

So, it was too late to get the two 910 ohm resistors onto my last order. I don't want to pay another $7 bucks to ship 50 cents worth of resistors. Could I just use a 300 and 600 ohm in series and be close enough?

 

[Echo North]

Could I just use a 300 and 600 ohm in series and be close enough?

Definitely.

Or two 1.8K in parallel.

 

[tman]

The rev D rules!!

Thanks to Mnats, Mike at Hairball for the parts, and all who posted, for the info.

Will post pics soon.


Tony

 

[Dean Roddey]

Oh, man, I screwed up on cutting my meter hole. I got confused about the orientation and it ended up too low. It's flush with the bottom of the front panel, but the bottom and top panels have a lip that come over, so it'll never it. Planning is everything, and I planned this one much more than the LA-2A. But when I sat everything out on the front panel to find the locations, I only put the bezel of the meter on there, so I failed to remember the extension of the meter on the bottom internally.

Soooo... I had no choice but to rotate all of the pots 180 degrees (I'm doing a rotary), flip the meter over, and flip the front panel the other way. So I will soon be the owner of a very rare left handed 1176 I hear that Jimi Hendrix used it at one time.

Oh well, makes no difference to me. The front panels of my LA-2A and 1176 aren't going to be labeled anyway, since I don't have any good way to do it, so it makes no difference what order the knobs are in one way or another. I'll just flip the mounting positions of all the internals the other way as well to retain optimal locations for wiring.

 

[Dean Roddey]

So, just a couple questions... They seem obvious but just to make sure I'm not missing something:

1. I'm using the Hairball kit. I assume that I don't need Mnat's input xformer board in that case, right? I just use the one that came with the input xformer in the Hairball kit? It's very much simpler and has fewer connectors than the Mnats one, but I assume that's because his supports various xformers and therefore some need more connections, eh?

2. I noticed in Skylar's wiring guide that there were some resistors and caps wired into the attack pot I think it was, but I don't see those in the Rev D rotary wiring guide. Is that some optional or just something from a previous rev of these boards that is now not requird?

3. I'm doing a rotary version. So I should just leave out R77 altogether on the main board, or should it be jumpered or something? I already put it in before I noticed that in the schematic it says not used in the rotary version, so I guess I'll to clip that one out, eh?

 

[Echo North]

So, just a couple questions... They seem obvious but just to make sure I'm not missing something:

1. I'm using the Hairball kit. I assume that I don't need Mnat's input xformer board in that case, right? I just use the one that came with the input xformer in the Hairball kit? It's very much simpler and has fewer connectors than the Mnats one, but I assume that's because his supports various xformers and therefore some need more connections, eh?

Yes the one you received from mnats is the original board that can be used for various input transformers including the one I sell.  If you are using the transformer I sell then just use the board I sent you.  It's designed by mnats specifically for this transformer, no jumpers needed.

2. I noticed in Skylar's wiring guide that there were some resistors and caps wired into the attack pot I think it was, but I don't see those in the Rev D rotary wiring guide. Is that some optional or just something from a previous rev of these boards that is now not requird?

I must confess I know very little about wiring the rotary version.  I believe those components on the pots are on the ratio PCB for the rotary version.

3. I'm doing a rotary version. So I should just leave out R77 altogether on the main board, or should it be jumpered or something? I already put it in before I noticed that in the schematic it says not used in the rotary version, so I guess I'll to clip that one out, eh?

I believe R77 is the 8.2k resistor used for +8 metering and should not be on the main board at all.  Are you getting it confused with R76 (also 8.2K)?  R77 is on the meter PCB for the pushbutton version.

Mike

 

[Dean Roddey]

I must confess I know very little about wiring the rotary version.  I believe those components on the pots are on the ratio PCB for the rotary version.

Oh yeh, I didn't make that connection. Sorry. I guess I saw somewhere back in the misty past of this thread where he at first didn't have the smaller boards and subsequently added them. So those were probably from before that time.

I believe R77 is the 8.2k resistor used for +8 metering and should not be on the main board at all.  Are you getting it confused with R76 (also 8.2K)?  R77 is on the meter PCB for the pushbutton version.

Hmmm... I'm obviously extremely diffused on that one. I'll have to go back and reconnoiter. Sorry.

 

[Dean Roddey]

While you are here... I guess it was you who posted the picture of the t-pad from your kit and the wiring thereof? Is that still valid now on the latest and greatest?

 

[Skylar]

2. I noticed in Skylar's wiring guide that there were some resistors and caps wired into the attack pot I think it was, but I don't see those in the Rev D rotary wiring guide. Is that some optional or just something from a previous rev of these boards that is now not requird?

Dean,

You can see these components by taking a look at the schematic (either UREI, mnats, or Purple MC77).

This is from the UREI manual, page 52 of the PDF.


mnats uses the same component designations as the UREI in this area, so look for C27, R54, & R57 on your PCBs.
If you can't find these on the PCBs, you will have to wire them to the pots as shown in the wiring diagram.

 

[Skylar]

Also...

One thing I've tried to mention is that when you're using the wiring guide I put together,
it's highly recommended that you follow the schematic as well because it gives you
a much better understanding of what's going on with the circuit.

A lot of questions can be answered by the schematic.

 

[canidoit]

Yes the one you received from mnats is the original board that can be used for various input transformers including the one I sell.  If you are using the transformer I sell then just use the board I sent you.  It's designed by mnats specifically for this transformer, no jumpers needed.

Do you have to use jumpers and that for Mnats board for the Hairball Altran transformers?

I soldered mine with just the molex connectors and the Altran on top, to look exactly like this pic here? Are there more to it???? It does not say on Mnats transformer board to solder any jumpers for the Altran. Can someone please confirm that I have done it correctly?

 

[luis]

Mike,

.. But doesn´t the altran need some links with the mnats tranformer board?
I don´t have my board right here, but I think there is some legend in the board on how to do it. I made some links on mine.


I need your help guys: I´m pretty sure I have my 1176 wired correctly, checked and checked according to mnats guide with the help of Skylar diagram. However I had the output transformer wrong wired (stupid!) and the R32 burned! I´ve replaced the resistor, but when turn the compressor ON, i only get some noise (not HUM, but a Shhh) but the sound is not passing, there is also no diference changing the Input and output Knobs.

I think there are no shorts, and appart from the R32 that was destroyed, the other components all look fine.

Being certain that the wiring is correct, what would you advise me? I checked the PSU and it´s fine.

Thanks

 

[Echo North]

Mike,

.. But doesn´t the altran need some links with the mnats tranformer board?
I don´t have my board right here, but I think there is some legend in the board on how to do it. I made some links on mine.

There are two input transformer boards in question.  The original shipped by mnats that can be used with multiple transformers and does require jumpers for the Altran.  You can identify it by the 5 terminal header on the input side.  Then there is the one mnats designed specifically for the Altran that I ship with the inputs. It's dated "27.01.09" and the has a 2 terminal header on the in and out.  That Altran specific board does not require any links/jumpers.

Mike

 

[canidoit]

Is it O.K. to mix and match 2n3707, 2n3708 and 2n5088 on the Rev D board as long as their over 250 hfe? I found a store thats got some in stock of each model and I may be stuck having to mix and match trying to get them all above 250 hfe for the board?

What do you mean that there are links for the board for the Altran. Can someone verify this? I looked at heaps of Rev D Xformer board pics and I can't see any of them using jumpers or links on the Mnats Xformer board. I am using Hairballs Altran Xformer.

 

[canidoit]

I'm going to start selling transistors at my store.

I'll have match pairs of 2n5457's starting this Wednesday.

In the next 2 weeks I'll be selling 2N3708's and 2n5088's with high enough HFE's and within 5% of each other.

Hopefully that will provide another option.

Mike

Whats going on with this? It's not on your store?

 

[Echo North]

I think you have the new board.  No jumpers needed. 

I have the matched 2N5457's on my store.  I haven't started stocking the 3708 and 5088's yet.  I've been super busy with some new stuff, I will look into this again this week.

Mike