I would remove the input and measure DCR while its not installed.
[Build] CAPI VP312~500/51x Series~Preamp Kit~Official Support Thread
- Thread starter jsteiger
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Removed & here are the measurements:
Pin 1 &3 - 23.3 Ohms
Pin 2 & 4 - 24 Ohms
Pin 5 &8. 1.948k
The extra uninstalled input I have measures really close to these figures as well
This looks correct.
justinmantell
New member
Is there a possibility that the floating item could be the GH switch itself? This is the second Stepped (Litz) VP25 I've built, and I am experiencing the same issues of everything working on both except for the GH switch on the fresh build. Tonally & with input/output level measured against a 1kHz sine wave I can confirm that both units function exactly the same in respect to mute, phase, pad, phantom, and they both react as expected and equally smoothly when using the attenuation knob.
All pre-flight testing of the new unit checked out, and both opAmps for both units work equally well. I also achieved a 25K overall resistance when checking the outer most pins of the GH switch and visually all my solders are shiny and appear to have decent to good flow in the work itself. I experience this no gain issue no matter in which slot of my 6 working lunchbox slots this faulty VP25 sits. I also checked the GH switch in the circuit by placing an alligator clip on GH pin 1 and then moving my DMM probe up the resistor ladder while switching to a higher position on the GH and the values read out to the DMM to match the BOM re: resistor values. Not sure if this is a real test or if it means anything about the switch, but I wanted to share.
I spent the weekend tracing back all items in the 330uF cap and 200 R string, tripled checked and confirmed all components are in their correct place and of correct value and orientation (including all leads from the Litz transformer), desoldered and re-soldered the board end to end several times but I can't seem to solve this issue of GH switch and no gain. Both VP25's sound gorgeous in stereo with GH in position 1 (off?) -- the first step on the GH switch -- and both sound insanely gnarly on position 12 (full bore) on the GH switch, however my newly built unit lacks the ability to switch to any of the gain stages between positions 1 & 12 -- in other words, the new unit has two modes: 1. No gain, and 2. Full gain.
I am by no means without a pre, as I wouldn't use the gain section for reamping sources from interface out to pre and back in, and I wouldn't use gain for stereo DI sources, such as synth, etc., and I can probably get by just fine sticking this VP25 in front of a loud guitar or bass amp cranking into an SM57, but I would love to be able to solve the issue of the gain stage mystery and have two fully working units in my rack.
Thank you in advance.
You can easily test if the Grayhill switch wiper is making continuity with each of the respective 12 pin positions as you turn it. Just check with a DMM.
justinmantell
New member
Today was a marathon! I went back through every solder joint and reflowed using good flux and 800 deg on my iron, everything is looking shiny & nice.
Checked the GH switch for continuity and it is present between the wiper and all 12 switch positions, and I checked back through the corresponding resistors in the stepped gain ladder per GH switch position and everything there has continutiy as well. GH wiper has continuity with the C12 330uF negative in each of the 12 switch positions, and the C12 330uF positive feeds down the line through R12, C4, R5, and (-) on A1 pins reading 200ohm.
I haven't been able to find a position on the board that's lacking continuity, and still no gain but all other functions work fine.
justinmantell
New member
SOLVED
Today I ran through the entire board again -- this time I pulled the OT and checked all the leads for the correct 9 ohm reading, re-stripped/re-tinned the wires, and reinstalled to ensure I had no issues with the OT. I again ran through the entire gain portion of the circuit from the GH switch back to the (-) on A1, reflowing solder as I went and even (in my delirium) created a jumper to bridge C12's 330uF positive lead to the 200ohm R12 -- and then I noticed that the resistors in the gain ladder were installed in reverse.
I read magazines backwards, and I read the R gain ladder from the bottom up, starting with installing 82R in position 1 and working my way to higher and higher resistors all the way to the 12th position on the GH switch. The worst part of it all is I checked the values twice before installing and then at least five times after the build was giving me issues, and although everything was in the right sequential order, they were sitting in the entirely wrong position.
What I do want to say, however, is how ROBUST these CAPI parts are. I can think of no greater abuse than a dude with an 800 deg iron reflowing solder over and over, pulling parts out, creating jumpers, etc. -- it's ugly as all hell but it sounds oh, so sweet.
I came back to share my shameful story of how a 3 hour build became a 40 (legit probably more) trouble shooting extravaganza in case any other nutbags out there decide to read magazines/BOM's from the BottOM up -- don't do that. Thanks for your help, Jeff -- I'm now the proud owner of two VP25's and I have my eye on an 11 rack and some BT50's in the coming months.
woofy
New member
Its OK but are you following the lead color cross reference chart on the Litz datasheet?
woofy
New member
Oh good catch. I remember building the 28 and the wires matched up in the same order as the holes...so if im reading this data sheet right, black from transfo goes to violet on pcb, red to grey, etcetc...
As for the bit of bare wire, would it be best practice to use some heat shrink or a bit of electric tape? Or am i ok ok lol.
I'd use a piece of heat shrink on it.
