radiance
Well-known member
I see the Fairchild time constants uses resistors in series with caps on two positions. Does this give a longer attack time?
I don't understand what you mean there but :radiance said:... or even no resistance at all?
lolo-m said:- A wire parralleled to the cap will mean no attack and no release = no compression.
Kingston said:Are you sure you don't have the 221k resistor of the old time constant network still there?
You're right you may have some compression...radiance said:lolo-m said:- A wire parralleled to the cap will mean no attack and no release = no compression.
Strange, I had a 470K pot wired parallel to the cap and still got some compression when turned all the way cw which resulted in 0 resitance...well, maybe the resistance was 18R or so due to the pot being not very acurate...but still.
It did sound quite nice...I'll experiment some more with this.
Thanks again for chiming in on this old thread...
pacemaker said:hi lolo,
I'm currently building my PM670,
and i would like to put your scamp booster in.
not sure it's the right place,
but i can't find a thread for the boards only,
Was it a one shot run of boards or are they still available somewhere ?
best regards,
Francois
You're right. This switch is to get both modes on only one switch : analag's and fairchild's tc networks are on that switch.Freddy G said:I was so confused because I didn't understand the values...but now I see that the cap values are paralleled to make up the values as shown in the fairchild TC network. And on the other pole of this switch I just couldn't figure out what the 2k resistors were doing and where did they come from? they are not in the fairchild tc schematic. Then it dawned on me.... that pole with just the 2k resistors is the Analag mode!..is that correct?
lolo-m said:Hi,
Here is a build help thread for poeple who choosed to implement my SCAmp Booster on their PM660 or PM670. Just to save some time, let's call it SCAB (SCAmp Booster ;D)
If you start filling the PM board, don't solder D1, D2, D3, D4, C4, R16 and R18. Put 2 wire links between C4 pads and R18 pads.
If they're already soldered, solder a wire link between the C4 pins and between R18 pins. I can't honestly say that's it is a good idea to dissolder C4 (even if I did) as it can endomage the PCB if not correctly done. Cut D1, D2, D3, D4 on the middle of the glass tube.