saint gillis
Well-known member
First of all here's the schematic :
http://sub-continental.com/diy/amek/amek_sch.jpg
http://sub-continental.com/diy/amek/amek_sch.jpg
saint gillis said:First of all here's the schematic :
http://sub-continental.com/diy/amek/amek_sch.jpg
saint gillis said:I don't understand the ICs voltage charts, are they the voltages at the corresponding pins without the ICs on the sockets?
L´Andratté said:Saint gillis, just noticed the caps on the input are not back to back like they ought to be
ipindalieson
standard approach: inject a signal (could be sine wave) and trace it (with an oscilloscope) along the signalpath, where does it vanish? Is it present at the input, the output of the tl072´s, at the output of 5534, etc.
That gives an idea where to look---
Also you need to check the soldering at least thrice
That´s how it is, always a stupid mistake or a couple that needs to be found!
moamps said:There is no need to have two electrolytic capacitor in series at input. Amek used it most probably because they used caps rated to 40V only. One 10uF/63V would be enough. Or you can try to use MKP 4u7/63V instead.
C12 is backwards in redrawn schematic, also why it is 220uF? Could someone calculate -3dB point when it is loaded with 10k pot?
@ipindalieson
Put in the socket only 072 and measure DC voltages on it and report back. Measuring voltages on sockets without ICs do not say too much.
moamps said:There is no need to have two electrolytic capacitor in series at input. Amek used it most probably because they used caps rated to 40V only. One 10uF/63V would be enough. Or you can try to use MKP 4u7/63V instead.
moamps said:C12 is backwards in redrawn schematic, also why it is 220uF? Could someone calculate -3dB point when it is loaded with 10k pot?
12afael said:it seem that the gain cap needs to be low ESR. I´m not being very scientific but I have seen low voltage, non polarized and many in parallel in that position.
Would be great to hear an explanation why.
saint gillis said:Using a 2nd 5532 to make a balanced output is not a good idea, because if the negative pin of the xlr output is shorted to the ground you will get some horrible distortion.
Finally it's finished. It was not working before because the ground pin on the PCB was not connected to the ground trace, silly me. Finally I found it!First of all here's the schematic :
http://sub-continental.com/diy/amek/amek_sch.jpg
Hello there I like your premap and Amek m-2500 and I want to build one of these for my studio.
First I want to say I'm a noobie
1)My question is what is the difference of those 2 preamps ( Yours and amek one)?
2)What is the better one ?
Finding THAT ics are little bit difficult for me and I think building Amek one ( Gyraf schematic) is little bit easier for me.
3)If i'm building gyraf schematic Amek m2500 how do I add 48v phantom power ?
This is the link to the schematic.
https://gyraf.dk/schematics/Amek_2500_micamp.gif
4)I don't know how to read capacitor in thet schematic. What is the meaning of 10/40 ,
10/35, C12- 150p , 2200/6v3 ?
Thank you for replying.Hi Geesara.
I'm a noobie as well
1. I think its same design, I built them both, my Amek 2500's run balanced, and the Funky one's run unbalanced
2. They are the same IMHO, but I like the Funky's reaction to the signal, I don't know why haha
3. Try this Amek M2500 Build and Support Thread
4. 10uf (microfarad)/40v (volt) - 150p (picofarad)
Ipin
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