No confusion here. The mixer is for me, and anyone who might be interested in it. I'm not trying to design a commercial product. This is a DIY forum.
Compact desktop line mixer?
- Thread starter OneRoomStudio
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Happy to. I have attached both a FPD (what I used to make it) and a DXF version using your attachment trick. Like I said...not 100% set in stone. This was really just a POC. As for the 3D file, the only application I have that can open 3D files is SketchUp, which should be able to import DWG, DXF, or STL.
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MidnightArrakis
Well-known member
[should be able to import DWG, DXF, or STL] -- I can do -- 3D STL -- but, not right away right now. I gotta take-off and run some errands before it becomes too late to do so here.
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MidnightArrakis
Well-known member
[I have attached both a FPD (what I used to make it) and a DXF version] -- I have 3 immediate questions for you:
- Which "unit-of-measurement" did you use? Imperial (inch)? Or, metric?
- How thick is this panel supposed to be? I am measuring 0.079" or 2mm, neither of which is a standard thickness.
- What material is this panel supposed to be made from?
>> NOTE: Galvanneal is a rather "unknown" type of sheet-metal, but it is widely used in both the computer and medical electronics industries for their enclosures. Although a tad-bit more expensive than the run-of-the-mill aluminum, it does have some positive attributes, one of which is that it has a really nice finish to it. Just sayin'.....
>> SORRY!!! -- In my world, I always have to deal with and work in -- ABSOLUTES -- and no "if's, and's or but's" as Frank may or probably does at his FPD company.
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The units are mm. It's set to 2mm because FPD doesn't allow the selection of 1.5mm (the thickness of the original Takachi panel) at this size.
The original panel is spec'd at "A1100P" anodized aluminum, but FPD uses EN AW 5005 H24/34 [Al Mg1 (B)], which they have available in 2mm thickness.
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Additional information that might be helpful:
For the channel PCBs, I used pots with the centerline of the shaft sitting 12.5mm from the surface of the PCB, and push button switches with the centerline of the actuator sitting 5mm above the PCB. I assumed a 1.6mm thick PCB (standard thickness), and I have the pots and switches mounted on the opposite sides of the PCBs - so the centerline of the pots should be 19.1mm away from the centerline of the switches (12.5 + 1.6 +5).
I used rotary switches with shafts that sit 6.5mm above the surface of the PCB, so the monitor select and meter select switch locations in the master section reflect that. Faders will mount to small PCBs that sit beneath them. The only board I haven't quite figured out is the one that will hold the mix bus insert switch and LED bar graphs.
For the channel PCBs, I used pots with the centerline of the shaft sitting 12.5mm from the surface of the PCB, and push button switches with the centerline of the actuator sitting 5mm above the PCB. I assumed a 1.6mm thick PCB (standard thickness), and I have the pots and switches mounted on the opposite sides of the PCBs - so the centerline of the pots should be 19.1mm away from the centerline of the switches (12.5 + 1.6 +5).
I used rotary switches with shafts that sit 6.5mm above the surface of the PCB, so the monitor select and meter select switch locations in the master section reflect that. Faders will mount to small PCBs that sit beneath them. The only board I haven't quite figured out is the one that will hold the mix bus insert switch and LED bar graphs.
studio1117 RSS
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Well it's obvious from design choices you're making I suppose that this isn't meant for mass consumption. I think there is a missed opportunity here for this to appeal to a larger audience.
The whole point of this place is DIY. If there are elements of this that you like, you can take them and use them to build something of your own that meets your needs. If you’re waiting for someone here to design a product for you, you’re in the wrong place.
studio1117 RSS
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I found your dream mixer.... the Alesis 1622. It's plastic-y, old and basic looking and there are a ton of your beloved 1/4" input and output jacks on the back. I'm not waiting on anybody to design me anything. I'm trying to help you not waste time missing out on a lot of simple features.
I've watched as you are unwilling to compromise on the most basic and obvious design features. You want LED meters and 990/transformer outputs yet have no ability to even make it a simple summing mixer.
Your ideas and plans are archaic at best and time wasting at the most basic. You and you alone would appreciate the simple, limited features of this design. You want to draw with crayons, have at it. Good luck maintaining interest with your Kinder Konsole
