mata_haze
Well-known member
shabtek said:
Are you serious?
???
D-AOC PCBs - the building and help Thread
- Thread starter [silent:arts]
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Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Are you serious?
???
shabtek
Well-known member
yes, that much step-up is not needed.
nice trafo though, arguably overpriced; I would love to have one.
nice trafo though, arguably overpriced; I would love to have one.
Silvas
Well-known member
Eje2005 said:
Me too...kubi mod and i really love it !
So, how should i do the resistance thing on the stereo link switch ? just stick a trimmer on either side of the switch, something like that ???
Eje2005
Well-known member
Silvas, you removed the kubi mod?
Dont know about the trimmer on the stereolink, could be worth a shot no?
If it doesnt work just lift the vactrols. Really simple.
Dont know about the trimmer on the stereolink, could be worth a shot no?
If it doesnt work just lift the vactrols. Really simple.
Silvas
Well-known member
Eje2005 said:
Nope. I wont. I love kubi´s mod !
Eje2005
Well-known member
ilfungo said:
Two trimmers on the stereolink makes no sense to me.
Did you try to put the trimmers on the anodes of the vactrols? In not, why? Works perfect here.
I had ~2dB difference between the channels, easy fix with the trimmers. I might try to go back with dual vactrols since i can easy lower the compression with the trimmers.
I don't understand what you are asking. The GR meter will never show the actual gain reduction just a mirror of it that is hopefully close enough after you have calibtrated it. You have to do that using something that has a level meter and a signal generator. Adjust the meter to read 0. Insert a signal, for example -10dB, adjust in/out controls til you read -10dB coming back from the compressor with no compression. Turn up the treshold til you read for example -16dB. Adjust the meter to read -6dB. Readjust zero. Repeat on various gain reductions til you find a good compromise over the range of GR you expect to use your compressor.
Ok, i see. I have magic eye tubes for output metering.
If it's a VU i guess you could just put a 4 pole 2(3) positions rotary (or whatever switch you want) with the meter at the "wiper" and the output on one connection and the GR on the other.
If it's a VU i guess you could just put a 4 pole 2(3) positions rotary (or whatever switch you want) with the meter at the "wiper" and the output on one connection and the GR on the other.
Silvas
Well-known member
Eje2005 said:
This will screw up my nice matching when unlinked ???
Do you mean one trimmer on each anode ? 4 trimmers using kubi mod ?
My temporary solution if i want to use the channels linked is to use it as a M-S compressor, inserting a matrix before and after the DAOC . i've used like this a couple times where i wanted the channels linked and worked great. The small channel mismatch wasn't a problem working like this.
Eje2005
Well-known member
Silvas said:
Yes 4 trimmers, should work, i never tested it though, like i mentioned above. I will asap.
If you have nice matching unlinked, you can switch in the trimmers along with the stereolink.
Hank Dussen
Well-known member
Anyone can tell which tubes are the most important for the sound for the D-AOC?
Which ones would be worth spending a little more money on?
Which ones would be worth spending a little more money on?
![[silent:arts]](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/groupdiy/data/avatars/m/0/172.jpg?1620371656){kind=avatar}
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
ilfungo said:
sounds fine. you can use the PoorMan wiring guide for reference.
it doesn't matter if you switch the positive (red), negative (blue) or both wires.
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