Designing a modern mixing console - Part 1 (and introduction): Channel Input

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JohnRoberts said:
Don't over think it. Ground is like a sewer system so don't worry about it too much about the poop after it is dumped.

This is somewhat conflicting advice. Either it matters or it doesn't matter, or it matters under certain conditions.

What I'm wondering is what those conditions are, or what math to use to determine those conditions. Unfortunately, I don't really have the luxury of doing a whole load of design revisions; the prototype PCBs + parts are going to be a fairly non-trivial cost, and breadboard will not offer much insight into real world noise performance.

I understand that may be a bit more hand holding, but a direction or some kind of numbers to run would be awesome.

-Matt
 
Make sure you have the strongest ground connections possible.
I've experimented with all sorts of variations around the theme of separate grounds, and always came to the conclusion that the best results are obtained when all the ground bus are strongly tied together. Make sure you have a solid copper fill on your PCB.
 
There are simple equations for IxR voltage drop in PCB traces, but this is mostly useful for brute force approaches trying to hold ground potentials close to 0V.

I am suggesting that grounds are simply used to drain away current and the local ground voltage whatever it is, gets ignored by using differential processing between local ground nodes.

It is useful to keep ground potentials modest, but brute force is generally less productive than electronic cancellation.

Soppose for an extreme example you have 1V of ground noise on some internal local ground. When audio it routed to this local region, relative to this node, the audio signal ir riding on top of the 1V. Then when signal is passed to the next stage the differential extracts the signal minus this local ground noise, then references that to the destination ground.

1v is an exaggerated noise voltage, and differential cancellation is not perfect to less noise on local grounds is always better, but electronically subtracting tens of dB is easier than brute forcing tens of dBs.

JR

PS: Yes indeed bond grounds together, but still use differentials between them since those well bonded grounds will still exhibit different voltage potentials. 

 
abbey road d enfer said:
Make sure you have the strongest ground connections possible.
I've experimented with all sorts of variations around the theme of separate grounds, and always came to the conclusion that the best results are obtained when all the ground bus are strongly tied together. Make sure you have a solid copper fill on your PCB.

Another +1 and that is pretty much the philosophy for managing the classic pin 1 problem with XLR shield noise currents. Bond all the grounds together at the jack, but remember that the audio is relative between pins 2 and 3, not referenced to 1.

I had a painful experience with an old console that I tried to keep a separate power and signal ground system. When that console got put into a studio in the direct beam of an AM radio station tower, there was 1V of AM carrier at 960kHz between the two ground buses (kind of like a driven rail power amp, a real mess).

That said we routinely keep things like switched LED currents out of local grounds when possible and I have seen consoles with separate power supplies and grounds just for LEDs. 
-------
In case there is confusion about my local grounds, these are not floating and all get bonded back to system ground, but when we decide to use a local ground node as our local audio signal low, we must differential back and forth between other local grounds. Even though they are all connected and bonded back to the system ground they will all be at different voltages so can not be used as a reference.

JR


 
Ok, Revision 3 attached.

I've removed the clipping indicator stage, to be reintroduced after the EQ (in a redesigned form), where it will be of the most benefit. Gone is the relay, and in is the MAX314 CMOS Analog Switch. I have my eye on some better spec'd parts from Maxim (MAX4600), with Ron of 1.25R as opposed to the 10R of the MAX314. That being said, they are $1 more per part and I may be splitting hairs again. I'd really like to use the SSM2402/4, but RoHS killed that part.

JR, if I understand you correctly, you were inferring this placement of the switch to ensure both zero voltage and zero current, thus ensuring the switch resistance would stay constant over the full signal swing (i.e. negligible distortion). I'm not immediately seeing how to slug the turn-on speed to reduce pop/click, though. Additionally, I'm probably running some offset into the switch that won't help matters in that department, but I'd hate to be up to two coupling caps already and not even out of the input section yet.

The necessity of an inverting stage is a bit annoying at this placement, but I don't see any way of avoiding it should I want the best performance from the switch. I suppose one hack would be to reverse the polarity at the inputs, but that feels kinda cheesy to me for some reason.

-Matt
 

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A couple of observations:
Lack of DC blocking caps - Input level pot wiper & CMOS switch chip.
Crosstalk on the CMOS switch - reduce it by running the change-over in a series-shunt configuration.

When you switch audio in a virtual-earth configuration you need an inverting buffer - it's not an annoyance but a necessity.

Why would polarity-flippng at the inputs be cheesy?

Is there a particular reason that the "trim" control is a full-range pot (attenuates to -infinity) and not a trim, i.e. +/-10dB (or similar) around nominal operating level?

Prototype / breadboard the circuit to prove that it will meet expectations of noise, distortion, crosstalk, DC-isolation, switch-click, pot-wiper noise, etc. What is presented is a good starting-point, but there is a lot more to do before it is ready to make it into a a console.



 
You could make IC1A an inverting stage and wire the "Input trim" as a rheostat (+end resistor) to vary the gain instead. That means you can move the CMOS-switch to the IC1A input and get rid of IC1B.
 
Nishmaster said:
Ok, Revision 3 attached.

I've removed the clipping indicator stage, to be reintroduced after the EQ (in a redesigned form), where it will be of the most benefit. Gone is the relay, and in is the MAX314 CMOS Analog Switch. I have my eye on some better spec'd parts from Maxim (MAX4600), with Ron of 1.25R as opposed to the 10R of the MAX314. That being said, they are $1 more per part and I may be splitting hairs again. I'd really like to use the SSM2402/4, but RoHS killed that part.

JR, if I understand you correctly, you were inferring this placement of the switch to ensure both zero voltage and zero current, thus ensuring the switch resistance would stay constant over the full signal swing (i.e. negligible distortion). I'm not immediately seeing how to slug the turn-on speed to reduce pop/click, though. Additionally, I'm probably running some offset into the switch that won't help matters in that department, but I'd hate to be up to two coupling caps already and not even out of the input section yet.

The necessity of an inverting stage is a bit annoying at this placement, but I don't see any way of avoiding it should I want the best performance from the switch. I suppose one hack would be to reverse the polarity at the inputs, but that feels kinda cheesy to me for some reason.

-Matt

While I never worked with such expensive parts, it should work for them too.

Instead of one NF resistor, imagine two. One connected to R10 and one to R11 at the input side of the switch. This way the switch is inside the feedback loop so only driving the input of the opamp (easy lifting).

Of course there are other glue parts. To reduce crosstalk, additional TG switches can shunt the unused feedback pair to ground. To reduce clicks during transition a high impedance feedback resistor with small cap across the 5532 is useful for any dead time where there is no switch closed and no NF. You also need a cap across the 5532 to compensate for switch C to ground.  The 1k feedback R is low by itself, two in parallel is much too low for comfort.

Note: I am not familiar with the MAX314 so there may be subtle timing conflicts with how they switch but it looks like they are designed to switch like that. You may want to drive them individually if timing offsets are needed.

Of course you must bread board this and tweak it for silent running, perhaps DC blocking on output side of switch and on input resistors. Since 5532 are not very low offset parts.

JR
 
Approx. 20 years ago, I concocted a "speaker selector" for a local studio.  The objective was to select one or more stereo amplifier "destinations" from the desk's control room (line level) L/R outputs.  Instead of relays, I opted to use cmos 4053 "triple spdt switches" at the summing point/inside the negative feedback loop of an opamp hanging from each of the 4053 "switches".

Oddly enough, last year I re-purposed that same switcher when they sold their large-format Otari desk in favor of a bunch of rack mount preamps and a digidesign D-command "control surface".  That D-command "desk" only provided "main" and "small" outs for control room speakers, and the studio (ad agency) likes to have a bunch of monitors to hear how the product sounds on a variety of speakers.  My switcher allowed up to six stereo amp/speaker stereo sets to be selected one at a time, or in any combination.  All I did was last year was to make a new User Interface which was rack mounted vs. stuffed into a blank panel in the Otari desk.  The actual switching was/is in a 1 RU rack box in the machine room along with all the power amps.

ANYWAY...bottom line on the design.  A 4053 "triple SPDT" combined with a summing node (and inside of the feedback loop) of an opamp makes a switch node that spec'ed well in what haas been a major signal path at the studio.  In that configuration, noise and THD were essentially the same as the opamp according to my ancient Amber test equipment, and no one has complained.

And........... the multi-hundred-dollar-thousand-dollar Amek 9098 desks that I maintain eschewed cmos switches in favor of those little DIP-format Panasonic relays which I linked in a previous reply.  Yes, they suck a bit of current for the coils, but then you also don't have to hang an opamp (and other "glue") at each switch node.

Bri





 
FWIW, in this pic:

http://www.brianroth.com/pix/aaron/9098-nov2010/IMG_0119.JPG

...you can see the little Panasonic relays on an Amek 9098 module.  They are the DIP-10 items scattered around the circuit card.


Bri

 
Gareth, I see your name mentioned on multiple occasions in Douglas's book in the console section. An honor to have you aboard.

Gareth Connor said:
A couple of observations:
Lack of DC blocking caps - Input level pot wiper & CMOS switch chip.
Crosstalk on the CMOS switch - reduce it by running the change-over in a series-shunt configuration.

C7 does block output offset from U1. As an aside, that is one of the compromises of using the THAT1200, the output offset is spec'd at 10mV. I should have added them after IC1A and after U2.

No shunting at the switch is a typo, I had it there at one point but must have gotten deleted when I moved parts around. I'll adjust that for Rev 4.

When you switch audio in a virtual-earth configuration you need an inverting buffer - it's not an annoyance but a necessity.

In this case, for me, it's both, as now I may need an inverter someplace later. In the grand scheme of things, not so big a deal, really. Probably better to label it "mildly inconvenient compromise to ensure best performance."

Why would polarity-flippng at the inputs be cheesy?

It's not really, and present a rather simple solution to the issue. I just have a programmer's aversion to workarounds, don't mind me.

Is there a particular reason that the "trim" control is a full-range pot (attenuates to -infinity) and not a trim, i.e. +/-10dB (or similar) around nominal operating level?

It seemed to be the simplest configuration at that location parts and noise-wise. There's no guarantee that what comes in there is actually at +4, especially if someone decides to patch a hot compressor inline before the input instead of at the insert point. The one drawback I see is that I'm amplifying the noise of the pot right off the bat and the noise doesn't decrease as signal level is adjusted to be lower. Something to think about, I guess.

Prototype / breadboard the circuit to prove that it will meet expectations of noise, distortion, crosstalk, DC-isolation, switch-click, pot-wiper noise, etc. What is presented is a good starting-point, but there is a lot more to do before it is ready to make it into a a console.

Duly noted. I am breadboarding specific bits of the circuit as well as simming as I go, but that only takes me so far. The problem with breadboarding I find is that especially noise performance is not indicative of on-PCB performance. Plus, you really need to stuff it into a box to keep the interference out. That is not to say it isn't useful, though.

Henke said:
You could make IC1A an inverting stage and wire the "Input trim" as a rheostat (+end resistor) to vary the gain instead. That means you can move the CMOS-switch to the IC1A input and get rid of IC1B.

That is a possibility, although that limits me to a unity gain configuration at the lowest. It would be nice to have some attenuation. Perhaps the real answer in this case is to move the trim and gain block to after the switch buffer, thus allowing trim of the bus input also. The problem I have with that solution, though, is that it encourages poor gain staging. If the bus is too hot it makes more sense to pull your faders down instead of reducing the bus input trim to the channel.

JohnRoberts said:
Instead of one NF resistor, imagine two. One connected to R10 and one to R11 at the input side of the switch. This way the switch is inside the feedback loop so only driving the input of the opamp (easy lifting).

Maybe I'm not visualizing that correctly (although I'm pretty sure I am), but doesn't that still place the TG at the same circuit node? The only thing I see that doing differently than the way I have it drawn is that during the switch transition the feedback pairs will be both out of the circuit and not yet shunted, thus causing a brief open loop gain, right during the time where charge injection shows up: to me, that says big click instead of little click, even with a feedback cap.

The 1k feedback R is low by itself, two in parallel is much too low for comfort.

Good catch. 4K7 like the rest will work fine here.

Of course you must bread board this and tweak it for silent running, perhaps DC blocking on output side of switch and on input resistors. Since 5532 are not very low offset parts.

I can't imagine needing blocking on both sides, but we'll see when I test it. 5532 is not very low offset indeed. I'm trading offset for cash, but if I need a blocking cap after every 5532 the economics may not be sound.

Speaking of blocking caps in the audio path, I'm aiming for a -3dB point of 10Hz, which makes these things rather spendy as film caps go. I know everybody says electrolytics are the devil, but how much are they the devil? A nice design goal would be the oft quoted 2hz-200Khz for good phase from 20hz-20Khz, but that really needs caps that get into tube amp blocking cap type expenditure if I stay with film. My budget is $25k for channels, which sounds like a lot until you realize that just doing the faceplates, PCBs, and quality faders alone is probably 1/3-1/2 of that budget right there for 32-48 channels.

Brian Roth said:
ANYWAY...bottom line on the design.  A 4053 "triple SPDT" combined with a summing node (and inside of the feedback loop) of an opamp makes a switch node that spec'ed well in what haas been a major signal path at the studio.  In that configuration, noise and THD were essentially the same as the opamp according to my ancient Amber test equipment, and no one has complained.

I haven't run the switch setup through the prototype test yet, but Douglas Self's numbers for a similar switch in the configuration I have drawn look to be basically negligible, and his part was at least an order of magnitude worse Ron.

...you can see the little Panasonic relays on an Amek 9098 module.  They are the DIP-10 items scattered around the circuit card.

Those are great shots, thanks! Yeah, looks like those little guys are all over the place.

-Matt
 
Thanks for the welcome aboard, Matt, and your detailed reply. There is so much to comment on......

Douglas and I worked together on a number of projects, starting in 1983, when we were both new-boys at Soundcraft. Since leaving that great audio establishment we have continued to work together when suitable projects have arisen. The working relationship is still strong and growing!

On to consoles:

Much of the design work that I do today draws on the first-hand experiences and practices that have been had over a period of 30 years of work as an emplyee and also as a freeelance designer with some of the high-end console manufacturers.

If some points appear short and a bit blunt - there are other pressures on my time, which is why I don't come here often. Long replies are given where appropriate.

DC Blocking caps:
The wiper of the pot may sound scratchy when DC coupled to a 5532. Place a cap in series with the wiper and a 100k grounding resistor on the input of the op-amp.
DC block the inputs and outputs of the CMOS switch. This gets rid of switching clicks.

Inverters and buffers:
Don't worry too much about adding them. There are plenty of high-quality op-amps that are available at reasonable prices. The exact quantity of buffers and polarity inverters will ONLY reveal itself when a full block diagram of each module is produced. Get your product specification sorted out first - input channels, output groups, master facilities, monitoring. What are the facilities of each of these? How do the controls interact? What are the external connections? Which ones are balanced, and at what level? Once these main points have been established and you have an idea of the pots and switches required, you can generate a block diagram of each module with level rises and falls. This will show where buffers and inverters are required, what fixed or variable gain or attenuation is needed and where polarity flips can be done at balanced I/O connections.

Avoidance of electrolytic caps:
This subject is best left in the realms of hi-fi (the same industry where $1000 per foot for cable is deemed to be acceptable)......
When top-end broadcasters and music studios have a reality check and are prepared to spend $500,000+ for an analog console that is stuffed full of electrolytics, the component can't be that bad! Virtually every film or TV programme you watch or music that you listen to will have been through hundreds (if not thousands) of electrolytics. If something is repeated often enough, it becomes accepted, whether or not it is the truth.
Careful choice of electrolytics is, of course, a major factor in getting any design right.
If your console runs hot, you will need to re-cap at some point. As the designer you are in control of designing the console to run cool and also to specify the parts. Component technology is constantly improving. One of the specialities of my partners and I is the refurbishment of large consoles. When some of these were designed in the early 1990's, cap technology was such that a recap after 5 years was viewed as normal. The parts that we fit on refurbishments are lasting longer. Based on refurbs from 4 and 5 years ago that we have re-visited to analyse, we expect that the parts we have fitted will be good for at least a further 10 years. On cooler-running consoles, the life would be longer.

Trim control:
This could be configured (as suggested) with a stand-off resistor to ground at the bottom of the pot, or, in the feedback loop of the opamp, or a modification of the Baxandall active gain control that is described in Douglas Self's Small Signal Design.

4053 switch chips:
A very fine part indeed. Value-for-money, transparent, easy to use.



I need to be elsewhere..... I'll pop back as time permits.

Gareth.
 
Nishmaster said:
JohnRoberts said:
Instead of one NF resistor, imagine two. One connected to R10 and one to R11 at the input side of the switch. This way the switch is inside the feedback loop so only driving the input of the opamp (easy lifting).

Maybe I'm not visualizing that correctly (although I'm pretty sure I am), but doesn't that still place the TG at the same circuit node? The only thing I see that doing differently than the way I have it drawn is that during the switch transition the feedback pairs will be both out of the circuit and not yet shunted, thus causing a brief open loop gain, right during the time where charge injection shows up: to me, that says big click instead of little click, even with a feedback cap.
This is a subtle but important point. Yes the TG switch output is connected to the same circuit node, but if you inspect the current flowing through that TG, it is orders of magnitude lower. If you visualize how negative feedback works, the opamp drives the far end of the feedback resistor to hold the - input the same as the +, in this case ground. By connecting the feedback resistor to the input side of the TG switch, the input resistor current is matched and cancelled by the feedback resistor current without that current actually passing through the TG. The TG only has to drive a modest 1M or several hundred K feedback R across the actual opamp in parallel with lower impedance outer loop, to keep it happy when the TG are switching.  FWIW the last time I used this approach a few decades ago I used bifet opamps so I didn't have the 553x input bias current to deal with, but old school bifets had mV of DC input offset so caps are still needed. 

If you are comfortable with the performance of those premium TG open loop, it is surely simpler and easier to execute as their app notes suggest. The parts you are using will not benefit as much as the cheap jelly bean CMOS TG I used from my "inside the loop" approach. 
The 1k feedback R is low by itself, two in parallel is much too low for comfort.

Good catch. 4K7 like the rest will work fine here.

Of course you must bread board this and tweak it for silent running, perhaps DC blocking on output side of switch and on input resistors. Since 5532 are not very low offset parts.

I can't imagine needing blocking on both sides, but we'll see when I test it. 5532 is not very low offset indeed. I'm trading offset for cash, but if I need a blocking cap after every 5532 the economics may not be sound.
There is no free lunch...  A dirty secret about big dog consoles as that DC blocking caps are widely used, because big dog customers don't appreciate scratchy pots and clicky switches.
Speaking of blocking caps in the audio path, I'm aiming for a -3dB point of 10Hz, which makes these things rather spendy as film caps go. I know everybody says electrolytics are the devil, but how much are they the devil? A nice design goal would be the oft quoted 2hz-200Khz for good phase from 20hz-20Khz, but that really needs caps that get into tube amp blocking cap type expenditure if I stay with film. My budget is $25k for channels, which sounds like a lot until you realize that just doing the faceplates, PCBs, and quality faders alone is probably 1/3-1/2 of that budget right there for 32-48 channels.

-Matt

Without writing a long story about electrolytic capacitors, there are multiple error modes but they break down to two basic types... errors related to in-band current or loading, and errors related to terminal voltage change, which only happens at tuning frequency and below.  There is no easy solution for electrolytic caps in series with 10 ohm end limits in mic preamps, but for routine DC blocking just tune the poles to be octaves below your real audio cutoff and they will be mostly out of the picture. It is generally a good idea to define your LF cutoff (once) with one high quality film cap working into a suitable higher impedance. This can be done in a parallel servo stage or dedicated series HPF block (it's pretty much six of one, half dozen of another which. As long as your path is properly HPF early, the later DC blocking caps will never see LF content to cause terminal voltage swings and the related errors. 

Note if you just cascade multiple DC blocking cap stages all tuned for the same LF pole, the rolloff will accumulate and creep up into your passband. In consoles we expect multiple such DC blocking stages so good practice is to push those individual poles down into infra nowhere, with the actual rolloff defined by one high quality filter stage early in the path.

Sorry if this is too esoteric of an answer... I have made many circuit blocks without this much attention to detail, but now is a good time for you to understand your options.

JR
 
Gareth Connor said:
If some points appear short and a bit blunt - there are other pressures on my time, which is why I don't come here often. Long replies are given where appropriate.

I completely understand. Everyone here is going out of their way to be helpful, and it is appreciated more than you all can imagine.

The wiper of the pot may sound scratchy when DC coupled to a 5532. Place a cap in series with the wiper and a 100k grounding resistor on the input of the op-amp.
DC block the inputs and outputs of the CMOS switch. This gets rid of switching clicks.

Ah yes, I usually remember output offset, but often forget input offset.

The exact quantity of buffers and polarity inverters will ONLY reveal itself when a full block diagram of each module is produced.

I suppose I should just break down and do this. The specifications of this unit are very clear in my head, but a block diagram would help suss out the particulars to everyone (and probably reveal a few to me as well).

When top-end broadcasters and music studios have a reality check and are prepared to spend $500,000+ for an analog console that is stuffed full of electrolytics, the component can't be that bad!

True enough. Some distortion isn't necessarily a bad thing either (although this is a slippery slope). I feel the real reason that myself and others gravitate towards consoles as opposed to digital mixing are the various imperfections caused by the process, small amounts of crosstalk and distortion making everything sound glued together as opposed to a collection of sounds simply added on top of one another. That is not to say that distortion should be designed in, though.

This could be configured (as suggested) with a stand-off resistor to ground at the bottom of the pot, or, in the feedback loop of the opamp, or a modification of the Baxandall active gain control that is described in Douglas Self's Small Signal Design.

I will definitely take in to consideration alternate designs. That gain block may move some place else in the circuit anyhow.

JohnRoberts said:
This is a subtle but important point. Yes the TG switch output is connected to the same circuit node, but if you inspect the current flowing through that TG, it is orders of magnitude lower...

If you are comfortable with the performance of those premium TG open loop, it is surely simpler and easier to execute as their app notes suggest. The parts you are using will not benefit as much as the cheap jelly bean CMOS TG I used from my "inside the loop" approach. 

I see what you mean now. I was not quite looking at the current angle, only at the voltage angle.

That being said, distortion looks like it will be vanishingly low even in the configuration drawn. The brief open loop gain while in-transition makes me a bit nervous to go to the fully-inside-the-loop configuration.

Without writing a long story about electrolytic capacitors, there are multiple error modes but they break down to two basic types...

Sorry if this is too esoteric of an answer... I have made many circuit blocks without this much attention to detail, but now is a good time for you to understand your options.

JR, that's not too esoteric an answer at all. In fact, that may be one of the clearest and most practical answers to that question that I've come across. Much thanks for that.

I'm probably looking at another revision or two of this input section, as well as providing a console level block diagram to clarify the particulars of this desk, then it will be time to move on to either the hi/lo cut section or bus inputs.

-Matt
 
Doug Self suggests a cutoff frequency of 0.3Hz or lower in a circuit using coupling capacitors. You might also want to search out Stephen Groner's work on reducing distortion in electrolytics by using anti-parallel connection. It's on this forum.

Peace,
Paul
 
Just some more two cents.....in several parts.

I'd have to dig back through 20-ish years-ago notes to be sure the circuit is accurate (OK...I wasn't as organized back then...LOL), but I drew a quick n' dirty sketch of a FET switch node which I used for the monitor switcher I mentioned in previous messages, and I've attached it.  Sorry it's not done in  "PrettyCAD", but I am doing this more as an exercise/share the idea,  than a way to make money.  ;-)

That circuit was a way to turn on/off a signal path using a 4053, with the 4053 inside of the negative feedback loop.  R3 keeps the opamp from going nuts when the 4053 is in switch transition.  R2 and R3 are in parallel when the 4053 is in the "audio path is ON", and is unity gain with the values shown.  The CMOS switch section is inside of the negative feedback loop when the 4053 section is "ON".  I didn't have an Audio Precision test set back then (nor now....just an aging Amber 3501 test set), but the numbers I came up with were essentially the same numbers from the 353 opamp by itself.

OTOH, I've also seen the 4053 used in a similar configuration with R2 omitted, and R3 as a 10K.      shrug

I drew R4 as a method to minimize input DC offsets with the 353 opamp, but to be honest, I think the non-inverting opamp input was merely connected to ground in my switcher gizmo.

That circuit has been part of a larger monitor switching system (12 of them.....part of a "stereo-in/six stereo destinations out") for 20 years.  No AUDIBLE noise when switching, and no complaints.

One cool thing I recall playing-with was stacking multiples of the 4053's into the same summing node.  IIRC, it worked well, but I don't recall how good the crosstalk numbers were.  Things like stray capacitance coupling will mess with crosstalk.

So, Pick Your Poison.....somewhat complexities with the FET switches, or simpler (???) mechanical Panasonic relays as what Amek/Neve used on their 9098 desks!

Best,

Bri

 

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The OP asked about power supplies...

These desks used many PSU's:

http://www.brianroth.com/pix/aaron/mps15/

http://www.brianroth.com/projects/curtis/amekps.jpg

Each PSU was rated for +/- 12 amps at +/- 17.5 VDC and also 25 amps at 5 VDC.

Wiring was a bit 'thick"  lol

Each 16 channels were wired with 12 amps from the +/- 17 at 12 amps and 25 amps at 5 DC.

Every module has a fuse on each rail.....1 amp


Bri


 

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