Discrete Dip 8 Opamp

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abechap024 said:
Also be sure to clean all rosin from boards! Prior to placing them vertically. Haha the 10 megaohm input resistance don't like no rosin...

I actually just discussed this when someone asked about cleaning and supposed "no-clean" flux.

Just copy pasting what I wrote:

[quote author=ruckus328]
There's no such thing as "no clean solder", I don't care what Kester or anyone else says.  Notice in thier literature where it says (should be ok for most applications).  Well, we've had major system failures at my plant due to this supposed no clean crap, resulting in catostrauphic failures on equipment sent abroad (which was not an easy or cheap fix - try getting equipment back through Algerian customs, in the end I had to go over there, but that's another story).  That was high voltage stuff, but we've seen issues with small signal here as well.  Now everything gets cleaned, whether no clean flux is used or not.  Anyways, "no clean" flux leaves a slightly conductive parasitic residue, when you start to get into high impedances is, you've basically formed a conductive path around your entire board, and it's juuuuuust conductive enough that all kinds of fun things can happen.  Would there be issues with a design like this?  I can't say, probably not, but for the 2 minutes it takes it's not something I'd gamble on, especially on something that's supposed to be high end audio.

You're probably going to need something a little more agressive than isopropyl alcohol though if using "no clean", I'd try methanol (any hardware store).
[/quote]

The basic jist is: at low impedances, a 10K inductive path from the rosin might not cause toooo much havoc, but at 10M impedances like you have, what happens when you put 10K in parallel with it? - all kinds of fun stuff.
 
hmmmmm . . . .that could explain quite a lot . . . . . I have lots of doas, and most work perfectly. however, there are always a few that wont work properly . . . . I wonder if this is why. I had put it down to differences in transistors.  Is this 10k rosin business measurable . - I guess so, No . . .
 
ruckus328 said:
abechap024 said:
Also be sure to clean all rosin from boards! Prior to placing them vertically. Haha the 10 megaohm input resistance don't like no rosin...

I actually just discussed this when someone asked about cleaning and supposed "no-clean" flux.

Just copy pasting what I wrote:

[quote author=ruckus328]
There's no such thing as "no clean solder", I don't care what Kester or anyone else says.  Notice in thier literature where it says (should be ok for most applications).  Well, we've had major system failures at my plant due to this supposed no clean crap, resulting in catostrauphic failures on equipment sent abroad (which was not an easy or cheap fix - try getting equipment back through Algerian customs, in the end I had to go over there, but that's another story).  That was high voltage stuff, but we've seen issues with small signal here as well.  Now everything gets cleaned, whether no clean flux is used or not.  Anyways, "no clean" flux leaves a slightly conductive parasitic residue, when you start to get into high impedances is, you've basically formed a conductive path around your entire board, and it's juuuuuust conductive enough that all kinds of fun things can happen.  Would there be issues with a design like this?  I can't say, probably not, but for the 2 minutes it takes it's not something I'd gamble on, especially on something that's supposed to be high end audio.

You're probably going to need something a little more agressive than isopropyl alcohol though if using "no clean", I'd try methanol (any hardware store).

The basic jist is: at low impedances, a 10K inductive path from the rosin might not cause toooo much havoc, but at 10M impedances like you have, what happens when you put 10K in parallel with it? - all kinds of fun stuff.
[/quote]

Just to be clear, are you measuring a 10k flux residue path? I have never seen that kind of conduction.

Clearly board contamination matters for high impedance circuits.

JR
 
I had an issue with one DOA that was working fine, but then I replaced the input transistors with a matched pair and then when I put it back in the circuit it oscillated uncontrollably, went back and cleaned the flux around the new input transistors and then it worked fine.
 
JohnRoberts said:
To dial in the output stage class A current, you can measure it by looking at the DC voltage drop across the emitter resistors, but the real Goldilocks test for too hot, too cold, or just right class A current is to look at HF crossover distortion. If you don't have a distortion analyzer handy you can see severe crossover distortion with a scope.  Using a clean sine wave source at 20kHz look closely at the transition region between + to - voltage and back again. This will be most visible for modest output voltages driving a healthy load (600 Ohm?). With a distortion analyzer I set the class A current so the crossover distortion components were well below the other distortion products. With just a scope, the best you can do is see it go away, and maybe add a little margin.

I would be tempted to use all transistors and diodes from the same batch (so they will be from the same production lots and similar), and dial in the operating point, by first starving the output stage until the crossover distortion is visible (or measurable), then increase that class A current until it cleans up nicely. If you can't clean up the output stage "and" still have thermal stability, it's time to tweak the design. Note: You need to tweak the bias so it is clean at minimum rated supply (+/-12V), while still thermally stable at max supply (+/-20v?). The nominal current in D3 increases with this rail voltage so if it is clean at +/-12v it will will be cleaner (and hotter) at +/-20v.

I suspect this design and values were dialed in for slightly different parts and different layout.. In such designs the details can matter.

Good luck and have fun.

JR

 

Terrific! Thanks for that advice John. Lots of good info in there. I'm glad I got my scope working again, looks like I have a new plan of attack :)
 
So if anyone is interested: My findings

I compared 2 opamps, @+/- 18v one with 5.1 ohm degeneration resistors showed a perfect 20khz sine wave. and another with 6.8 ohm degeneration resistors showed a slight bump at cross over for the 20khz.

So probably a good idea to stick with the lower ohm resistors and from what john was saying there are benefits, but the trade off is heat. But Seems with the diodes thermally connected to one or both output transistors they are stable.

Also I'm trying to get my head around this circuit:

does R15 (3k-5k) also adjust how much class A the opamps runs in?

Fun to do all this stuff!


Also as a side note: if I was to increase the degeneration resistors and the put a series resistor inline with d3, then that means if there is a miss- match between diode drops it won't be as big a deal right? I might do this just to see if it would be easier to get a consistent unit to unit class A operating range...If i''m thinking about this correctly...or I could be way off!
 
Well I have 4 busses with these installed on them, and doing some mixing really very pleasant! Nice high end but not in a harsh brittle way.

Thanks to everyone that has helped me sort these out!

Cheers,
Abe
 
abechap024 said:
So if anyone is interested: My findings

I compared 2 opamps, @+/- 18v one with 5.1 ohm degeneration resistors showed a perfect 20khz sine wave. and another with 6.8 ohm degeneration resistors showed a slight bump at cross over for the 20khz.
Keep in mind... if you are specifying these to work well at +/- 12V the class A current will be less at +/-12v so you might want even more.
So probably a good idea to stick with the lower ohm resistors and from what john was saying there are benefits, but the trade off is heat. But Seems with the diodes thermally connected to one or both output transistors they are stable.

Also I'm trying to get my head around this circuit:

does R15 (3k-5k) also adjust how much class A the opamps runs in?
Sort of...  R15 mainly controls the negative (pull down) side of the class A drive string current. It looks like a trim to perhaps balance out for DC offsets in the interior differential pair. It seems like R14 would be the one resistor that increases or decreases the total drive string current.

Note: Increasing the current this way would also slightly reduce the peak signal swing before the drive circuits saturate. You could increase the current without diminishing signal swing by reducing resistance of pairs of resistors like R8 and R11 to something less less than 56 ohms. This also slightly increases the voltage gain of the pre driver stage so might affect stability.
Fun to do all this stuff!


Also as a side note: if I was to increase the degeneration resistors and the put a series resistor inline with d3, then that means if there is a miss- match between diode drops it won't be as big a deal right? I might do this just to see if it would be easier to get a consistent unit to unit class A operating range...If i''m thinking about this correctly...or I could be way off!

Yes, exactly... Dropping down to 5.1 ohm is opposite direction to go for thermal stability. One thing I don't like about adding a resistor in series with D3 is that it is also sensitive to power supply voltage, and raises the impedance of the drive circuit (a cap between the two output device bases would help there).

This simple doa is probably OK for virtual earth inverting bus amp, but using it non-inverting the input stage operating current is modulated by the signal (not a good thing). Trying to make this remotely close to the performance of an IC opamp would be a lot of work.

JR
 
Great! Thanks John.

I've been testing these, trying different components, listening, testing, comparing them to various opamps.

Spec wise they preform very well. Lower IMD in most cases. (against a ne5534, opa228) That is in the MIX AMP position.

In the MASTER MIX amp position I currently have ad797's and the discrete don't fair as well on the testing. Higher THD (mainly 2nd and 3rd) But sonically I would choose the discrete over the ad797s, Just personal of course, I found the discrete warmer and less "sterile" (sorry for subjective comparisons!)

But to be sure I wasn't just fooling myself. I ran a blindfolded test were I had my brother switch from different buses and I listened on the couch. Upon a few switches back and forth one set was definitely harsher in the highs, I assumed (me being the pessimist that I am) it was the discrete opamps, but no to my great relief it was the IC chips (opa228 in this case)

So I don't know all the theory behind it, I like the idea of opamps running in class "A". But I do know that people would rather mix on an API console than a Soundcraft. Fill a Soundcraft with all API opamps (properly bypassed and compensated) and what do you get? A soundcraft filled with API opamps....

These are more expensive to build and make....essentially putting mini power amps everywhere. People can buy some really great IC chips for a fraction of the cost to built once of these. But I feel it is worth it. On a personal note: I always felt before that running signal through my console was a necessary evil, as I felt is didn't sound bad but it didn't "enhance" anything. Now doing some mixing through it, it diffenitly has a cool VIbe that it adds to everything!! And that make me happy!

I will get some sound files posted, I think it is something that we will be able to compare, I don't know if I would be able to hear the difference on my laptop speakers/headphones, but I think in a studio environment we will be able to tell.


edit: Also to correct what I said about the 6.8 ohm resistors, I had changed some other components that seemed to be the cause of the anomaly in the 20khz waveform (bad science I know, sorry!) I built another pair using the 6.8ohm resistors and they passed 20khz no prob.
 
Yep they are working properly.  I had to change a few components to get them to operate correctly in the circuit I'm using them in. (well just a compensation cap and resistor).

I think this will really depend on what style circuit you are trying to get them to function in. As always proper power bypassing helps...

I'm finishing the build manual and will try and put my findings in a more well polished format.

Thanks!
Abe
 
I repeat my earlier request to perform a null test between subject opamps in bus amps, to at least quantify differences.  I would be personally curious to see how one of the new uber-opamps with silly low noise and distortion would do in that socket. Even at several dollars for one opamp, it would be cheaper than a DOA.

JR


 
Hi John,
Yes I agree, I will get some files up soon, and run the test. The best opamp (spec wise) I have access to is the AD797. If these crazy speced opamps outperform sonically all these discrete opamps, I will be very pleased indeed! (Though it is a lot of fun to roll my own) I would save some money in the long run.
 
Hi,



  I would humbly like to interject that is probably what is wrong with 2520 that makes it rock, not what is so technically good about modern super-sexy ics. I have built stuff and done blind comparisons with all sorts of opamps, doa and ic, and whilst the new ones esp, 49710 and 49713 are astonishingly clean, and I have quite a few round the studio,  they just dont quite have the cajones for some things. I know that all this is personal, and highly subjective, not to mention circuit specific, but there you go. If I could just use 49710 and be done, I would for sure . . . . I would love to be able to save all that money and time. I have done null tests before now, just to try to ascertain exacly what the difference may be, and it is often barely noticable at all. But, it is there . . . . .


  Kindest regards,



      ANdyP
 
Perhaps we need another thread to discuss design philosophy, I have no problem with introducing euphonious coloration for good effect, I just prefer to have a bypass switch available so I can turn it on and off...

In the core of a console (sum bus amp) seems like an undesirable place to leave the coloration always turned on.

To make an unpalatable analogy, would you like a cooking pot that made everything taste like chili pepper? perhaps good for lots of dishes, but not every meal, every day. Of course if you own several cooking pots, no worries. most people don't own multiple different consoles and use them selectively to taste (some may).

My suggestion of a null test, should help identify the special sauce, if there is any. Most people think bus amp performance is all about noise, but the high noise gain of that particular application means you will also experience phase shift and distortion (I wrote about this in my 1980 console article).  A better opamp in that one socket could make an improvement for the right reason (more accuracy).

JR

 
Hi John,



  I in no way meant any disrespect. Your knowledge and understanding far far far excedes my wildest dreams. And, on reflection, I have not tried any 2520 in a mix-bus. Nor 47910 for that matter.  Personally, I am lucky enough to use three different mixbuses daily. 2 discrete, and one chippy, so I am well aware of the differences. I stlll think that most of the *sound* of a console is from the mixbus. It must follow that this sound is governed not only by the devices used, but also the circuit topology, or all those chippy 80s and 90s consoles would sound the same - 5534 n all.

    I know of an API that now has Forsell 993 on the mix amps instead of 2520 . . . .

    I do like your chilli analogy, and I totally agree with the idea of being able to bypass . .

    NOw I wonder what your opinion of this might be . . . .


  http://www.weiss-highend.ch/oem.html


  . . . . and Abe, dont even think about this one . . . . .

 
strangeandbouncy said:
Hi John,



   I in no way meant any disrespect.
none taken...
Your knowledge and understanding far far far excedes my wildest dreams. And, on reflection, I have not tried any 2520 in a mix-bus. Nor 47910 for that matter.  Personally, I am lucky enough to use three different mixbuses daily. 2 discrete, and one chippy, so I am well aware of the differences. I stlll think that most of the *sound* of a console is from the mixbus. It must follow that this sound is governed not only by the devices used, but also the circuit topology, or all those chippy 80s and 90s consoles would sound the same - 5534 n all.
Like i said I wrote on this subject of console design back in 1980

My judgement then was that hard parts were mic preamps and sum bus, with sundry other opportunities to make mistakes.

Since then IMO digital consoles have made summation theoretically perfect, as long as you are in the digital domain. 
     I know of an API that now has Forsell 993 on the mix amps instead of 2520 . . . .
Whatever,,, I recall Paul Wolff proudly showing off his first SMT opamps at an AES show, a long ass time ago...
    I do like your chilli analogy, and I totally agree with the idea of being able to bypass . .

    NOw I wonder what your opinion of this might be . . . .


  http://www.weiss-highend.ch/oem.html


   . . . . and Abe, dont even think about this one . . . . .

OK, I am not a fan of DOAs. Even if well done they are just not practical, and if poorly done they are POORLY DONE. I repeat that I doubt I could personally make a DOA better the SOTA we can now buy off the shelf with distortion down some 150 dB or so.

Glancing at the Weiss white paper I see plenty that I like....

He borrowed the inductor in the input LTP from Deane Jensen (RIP) who came up with it decades ago... I see lots of classic discrete design techniques (cascode buffered input devices, current source loads, etc). Of course there is nothing wrong with standing on the shoulders of others, I do it all the time. The only thing in there you can't do better inside an IC is the LTP inductor and perhaps the dielectric used in compensation/bootstrap caps (C1, C2)

I suspect that Weiss opamp sounds neutral (i.e. it sounds like the feedback network is telling it to sound). Whether it sounds audibly different than a SOTA uber-opamp, my speculation is not likely. In theory the flat open loop gain of the Weiss means error terms do not cause phase shift, an arguable advantage when operating at huge closed loop gain, but one shouldn't operate opamps at high closed loop gains, they are far better used for general purpose modest gain applications. For high closed loop gain we have other topologies better suited for the high noise gain to exploit.

Sorry about the veer... but you asked...

JR

Note: I am apprehensive about THD specs with that many zeros after the decimal point, since most are not measurable, with that much resolution at low/modest gains as we want to use them. Applying large closed loop gain, and then extrapolating to calculate the silly low distortion figures, makes me a little suspicious that the design is actually optimized for the high closed loop gain... Not the worst sin in the world, but a question that make me wonder.

While I won't lose sleep over the angel's foot steps as they tip toe around on the pin head in their slippers.  I'm pretty sure I can hear -100 dB down let alone -150dB... 
 
Hi John,


  please veer away, after all, I did ask ..

  thank you very much indeed for your reply, I am really grateful. I have much to learn. - Clearly.

    I harbour a sneeky suspicion that the Weiss might be a tad too clean for me, especially in a mic amp When my meager resources permit, i will find out and report. I will make it a priority to compare directly if possible with 47910, 47913 etc. Null tests akimbo.

  I have one cheeky bone of contention. I think that mixing analog at any cost and in any guise PISSES all over any digital bussing I have ever encountered. As I said, I have three different types of analogue mixer to hand, and three of one type. I also have a passive summing network I whittled up, and look forward  to adding to these in the future. it just gels together in the analogue domain in such an acceptable way. Dig is just so wishy-washy in comparison It always seems that the different elements are stacked one in front of each other instead of side by side.


  I would like to propose another way to show up differences in audio, more easy to digest than null testing. I insert a piece of kit over the mix, set to unity. having finished a mix, either remove it, or affect an A - B switch with whatever you want to compare it with. Then, preferably next day, do the same the other way around, B - A ing the other way. It is surprisingly revealing compared to a cold A - B test. The signature is *burned* into your cochlea like a retina burn in your eye, and you are very sensitive to any change after 8 hours or so.


    kindest regards,


      ANdyP
 

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