DiY AMI U47

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0dbfs said:
How about just having a relay in the mic controlled via a PSU switch that connects / disconnects the rear diaphragm regardless of the polarization voltage on the rear.

Cheers,
jb
Well, because that would mean hacking up the PSU to install a new switch, modding the PSU circuit, and adding an 8th pin to the PSU, cable, and mic. Right? Unless I could convert the 0V wire for the tube to be the relay switch, and just use the Ground for the 0V part of the tube instead?
 
You would need to modify it but you can do it if you want.
Maybe make a jumper (or internal switch) in the mic first so you can see how useful it will be for you in practice (from a sonic standpoint) before going through the process of spec'ing out and sourcing an adequate relay and drilling up your PSU case.

Cheers,
jb
 
AusTex64 said:
I was able to rewire the power supply Binder connector without doing anything but removing the metal PSU cover. There is plenty of room in there. Start with the part of the connector nearest the center of the PSU and work your way out towards the side. Be careful not to melt any wires.
Robert, I opened up the cover tonigth and took a look. Let me make sure I have it clear: You rewired the solder points on the PCB right? In other words, you left the solder points alone on the Binder itself? The Binder looks way too small and tight to re-work.

Also got the resistor boards done tonight. A continuity check seems to indicate I didn't make any cold joints. Yay! Tomorrow I'll add the capacitors.
 
I did it with the connector in place. It's not that hard if you have a small iron.

I removed all the wires then resoldered them in the correct positions, starting on the inside toward the outside, so I didn't have to reach over other wires to reach the connections.
 
AusTex64 said:
I did it with the connector in place. It's not that hard if you have a small iron.
Ok, I was debating rewiring my cable or the PSU, and on a whim, decided to give the PSU rewire a whirl. It was MUCH easier than it looked. It LOOKED on the verge of impossible, but I'm already done. And using my volt meter, everything is checking out as it should!

Time to continue on...
 
AusTex64 said:
I did it with the connector in place. It's not that hard if you have a small iron.

I removed all the wires then resoldered them in the correct positions, starting on the inside toward the outside, so I didn't have to reach over other wires to reach the connections.
Exactly how I did it too. I posted again to ask you about the transformer deck nuts. What is their purpose? Everything seems to have fit perfectly without using the 4 nuts. Also, how di dyou get the tube in the socket? Mine is not fitting in at all... Like the holes are too tight. I tried to use a pen to loosen them, but didn't work.
 

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Don't remember what I did about mounting the circuit boards to the transformer. Be careful about the back of the circuit boards not touching/shorting out on the transformer.

Tube socket was tight, but I was able to get it in. If you have an old cheap tube around, start with that. Just be firm.

I see you've removed the tube socket from the ribs. Understand the wires have to be routed through the transformer deck first before attaching to the tube socket. I assembled it with the transformer and tube decks in place.
 
AusTex64 said:
Don't remember what I did about mounting the circuit boards to the transformer. Be careful about the back of the circuit boards not touching/shorting out on the transformer.

Tube socket was tight, but I was able to get it in. If you have an old cheap tube around, start with that. Just be firm.

I see you've removed the tube socket from the ribs. Understand the wires have to be routed through the transformer deck first before attaching to the tube socket. I assembled it with the transformer and tube decks in place.
It looks like the mounting brackets on the circuit boards were angled just enough to not short out on the transformer. I just dont see the reason/need for the nuts - I might leave them off.

Yes, i removed the tube socket just to bridge pin 4 and 6 and 7 through 9, as well as place R2. I will put it back on before I solder the hook-up wire to it. I'm going to have to buy a metal dental tool to loosen the socket or something. I don't have any old tubes, and it's not budging.

By the way, has anyone seen this kind of stuff in a headbasket? It looked like there was dust on my headbasket, but it wouldn't come off, so I shined some light through it, and noticed this patch of stuff. I thought it was a manufacturer defect, but it appears at 4 different, pretty evenly-spaced spots on the top portion of the headbasket.
 

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Melodeath00 said:
By the way, has anyone seen this kind of stuff in a headbasket? It looked like there was dust on my headbasket, but it wouldn't come off, so I shined some light through it, and noticed this patch of stuff. I thought it was a manufacturer defect, but it appears at 4 different, pretty evenly-spaced spots on the top portion of the headbasket.

Is it glue holding the 2 layers of mesh together?
 
By the way, has anyone seen this kind of stuff in a headbasket? It looked like there was dust on my headbasket, but it wouldn't come off, so I shined some light through it, and noticed this patch of stuff. I thought it was a manufacturer defect, but it appears at 4 different, pretty evenly-spaced spots on the top portion of the headbasket.
It looks like solder paste. Also, inner mesh have to be in 45deg to outer one, same like in the cylindrical part of the headbasket. I don't think it changes too much regarding head basket acoustics, but it looks like "B" stock product.
Is it glue holding the 2 layers of mesh together
There is no need for any "glue". 3 layers of mesh are soldered to rings and suported by side parts. Everything is connected by soldering.
 
ruairioflaherty said:
Melodeath00 said:
By the way, has anyone seen this kind of stuff in a headbasket? It looked like there was dust on my headbasket, but it wouldn't come off, so I shined some light through it, and noticed this patch of stuff. I thought it was a manufacturer defect, but it appears at 4 different, pretty evenly-spaced spots on the top portion of the headbasket.

Is it glue holding the 2 layers of mesh together?
That was my thought, or to prevent vibration/rattling of the 3 layers?

Moby said:
By the way, has anyone seen this kind of stuff in a headbasket? It looked like there was dust on my headbasket, but it wouldn't come off, so I shined some light through it, and noticed this patch of stuff. I thought it was a manufacturer defect, but it appears at 4 different, pretty evenly-spaced spots on the top portion of the headbasket.
It looks like solder paste. Also, inner mesh have to be in 45deg to outer one, same like in the cylindrical part of the headbasket. I don't think it changes too much regarding head basket acoustics, but it looks like "B" stock product.
Is it glue holding the 2 layers of mesh together
There is no need for any "glue". 3 layers of mesh are soldered to rings and suported by side parts. Everything is connected by soldering.
Hmmm... Well, I sent this picture weeks ago to Oliver, but never got anything back from him. That's why I posted here. If there weren't 4 of these "patches," I would definitely think B-stock.
 
Quick question guys, and this may be silly. I finished building the mic tonight, and am trying to hookup my test K67 capsule to see if I can get signal. However, the K67 only has two wires coming off of it (one for each diaphragm). How do I connect the backplate?

I used one of the pieces Oliver sent me (what the heck is it for? It's made of metal, and has two holes of different size on it) to try to connect the backplate through a screw in the mount. This may have been not the greatest idea, but you tell me. I didn't know what else to try at the moment. I've attached a picture.

I plugged the mic up and the tube glowed (a good sign, I would think!), however, I got no audio signal. There was some sort of signal whenever I switched the polar pattern on the PSU, but this may just be some sort of side effect of something or crosstalk. Just thought I'd mention it. I imagine I'm not getting signal bc I haven't properly polarized the backplate. Any advice? I really want to troubleshoot using this K67 before I even open my Beesneez K7.

Thanks!
 

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Time for an update...

Turns out I had the K67 backplate hooked up correctly. So tonight I cleaned off the resistors with alcohol (just in case) and started measuring voltages. Everything was looking correct, and then I noticed the tube plate had become disconnected from the coupling cap. No wonder there was no audio! So, I reconnected it, and voila, I'm getting sound! And the polar pattern switching seems to work too. At least, there was a big null in the Bi-directional pattern, as expected. Frankly, I'm shocked it all works, considering this is my first build ever, and not only did I build the whole mic, but I wired the cable, and re-wired the PSU. That's a lot more soldering work than I expected to do. There were lots of places a beginner could go wrong, so I'm very thankful that it's working (And I wouldn't have been this far this fast without the help of everyone on this board, especially Robert). Of course, there's a lot of hum in the signal, but I expect that to go away when I put the body sleeve and headbasket on.

So I went to mount my BeesNeez K7 to truly finish the mic, and noticed there's a problem with mounting it. Do K47 mounts typically have 1 screw hole on each side of the saddle, or 2? The K47 mount I got from Oliver has 2 slits on each side, which isn't going to work with the K7, which has one screw hole on each side. I've already emailed BeesNeez, but maybe someone can tell me what a typical K47 mount is like? Maybe I got the wrong kind from Oliver. The pics I'm seeing online all look like 1 screw is going into the side of a K47-style capsule.

And of course, what's a build thread without a picture. Not the prettiest build to you guys probably, but I think it looks damn cool...
I think I took this pic before I realized I was missing one or two connections. I ran out of room in the through-hole of the transformer deck, so I had to route two hookup-wires right next to the transformer, through the small gap.
 

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Another update...

I was home on vacation visiting my family, so my dad helped me rig up a mod to mount the K7 (My dad is way more handy than I am, and has approximately 600% more tools than I do). The mod involved cutting a wooden dowel, recessing 2 screws into the bottom so I can screw the dowel onto the BeesNeez K7 mount (this way I don't have to super glue the wood to the mount), and then drilling a single screw hole in the bottom of the dowel, so that it can mount to the Tab/AMI plastic deck. It works, but it is very loose, and the capsule is swiveling/rattling around inside the headbasket. I guess the wood screw we had on hand is smaller than the AMI machine screw that came with the kit, and that's why it's not snug/tight. I need to figure out a way to tighten the mount so that the capsule remains steady. If anyone has any ideas, please do let me know.

Anyway, now that the mic is assembled (albeit, loose capsule mount), I fired her up and did some tests. The mic sounds fantastic! The sound quality level is on par with my Manley Reference Cardioid, just with a different tonality - more bass, not as bright. The U47 has much more proximity effect, and is less sibilant, as you would expect with less high end. I'm very pleased. It's not noisy, and sounds as expected. It's not distorted, or overly boomy, or whatever you might expect from a faulty build. I will post some samples in the near future. On acoustic guitar, the U47 sounds much more like the guitar in the room does than my Manley does. Very natural sound to it.

Here are some issues that I think you guys can chime in on.

-Does anyone know the exact correct height for the capsule in a U47? Once I figure out how to tighten the mount we modded, it looks like the top of the capsule is going to sit right at the horizontal bar on the headbasket. I'm wondering if I need a little bit more height to get to proper U47 mount height. We modded the mount to be the same height as the AMI-provided mount, but it still looks maybe a little short. Isn't the top 1/3rd of the capsule obscured/bisected by the bar?

-The U47 seems to have inverted polarity compared to my Manley and an SM57. Can I just flip the audio wires from the BV8 connecting to the Binder inside the mic, or is there a better way to fix this? I think that would be easier to do than modding the PSU.

-Polar pattern concerns: Omni works as expected. Bi-directional works as expected. There is a huge null on the sides of the mic in this mode, as you would expect. Cardioid: The mic is rejecting more from the side than it is from the rear. This may be normal, as it might be a psychoacoustic effect - the rear picks up a lot more bass than the side does, but its overall amplitude looks about the same graphically. It's hard to explain. This is not a fault of the remote-pattern switching either. I disconnected the rear diaphragm (true cardioid) and get the same behavior. (By the way, I did not notice any sound difference between remote-cardioid and true cardioid, but this was not a scientific test.)
The sm57 has a huge null in the rear of the mic, but it is dynamic, not an LDC. The Manley has somewhat similar behavior to the U47, but it is more in line with what you would expect. The Manley (k67-type capsule) doesn't have the same rejection as an sm57, and the rear has a bassy tone, but it sounds much more "rejected" than the rear of the U47 does. I'm not sure if this is typical of K47-type capsules, or maybe just the K7? I can't think of anything that would cause this circuit-wise, especially since I have the rear diaphragm disconnected completely, but please feel free to chime in. I sort of expected the rear of the U47 in cardioid mode to reject as much as the sides do in bi-directional mode.

Thanks
 
Melodeath00 said:
Another update...

I was home on vacation visiting my family, so my dad helped me rig up a mod to mount the K7 (My dad is way more handy than I am, and has approximately 600% more tools than I do). The mod involved cutting a wooden dowel, recessing 2 screws into the bottom so I can screw the dowel onto the BeesNeez K7 mount (this way I don't have to super glue the wood to the mount), and then drilling a single screw hole in the bottom of the dowel, so that it can mount to the Tab/AMI plastic deck. It works, but it is very loose, and the capsule is swiveling/rattling around inside the headbasket. I guess the wood screw we had on hand is smaller than the AMI machine screw that came with the kit, and that's why it's not snug/tight. I need to figure out a way to tighten the mount so that the capsule remains steady. If anyone has any ideas, please do let me know.

Anyway, now that the mic is assembled (albeit, loose capsule mount), I fired her up and did some tests. The mic sounds fantastic! The sound quality level is on par with my Manley Reference Cardioid, just with a different tonality - more bass, not as bright. The U47 has much more proximity effect, and is less sibilant, as you would expect with less high end. I'm very pleased. It's not noisy, and sounds as expected. It's not distorted, or overly boomy, or whatever you might expect from a faulty build. I will post some samples in the near future. On acoustic guitar, the U47 sounds much more like the guitar in the room does than my Manley does. Very natural sound to it.

Here are some issues that I think you guys can chime in on.

-Does anyone know the exact correct height for the capsule in a U47? Once I figure out how to tighten the mount we modded, it looks like the top of the capsule is going to sit right at the horizontal bar on the headbasket. I'm wondering if I need a little bit more height to get to proper U47 mount height. We modded the mount to be the same height as the AMI-provided mount, but it still looks maybe a little short. Isn't the top 1/3rd of the capsule obscured/bisected by the bar?

-The U47 seems to have inverted polarity compared to my Manley and an SM57. Can I just flip the audio wires from the BV8 connecting to the Binder inside the mic, or is there a better way to fix this? I think that would be easier to do than modding the PSU.

-Polar pattern concerns: Omni works as expected. Bi-directional works as expected. There is a huge null on the sides of the mic in this mode, as you would expect. Cardioid: The mic is rejecting more from the side than it is from the rear. This may be normal, as it might be a psychoacoustic effect - the rear picks up a lot more bass than the side does, but its overall amplitude looks about the same graphically. It's hard to explain. This is not a fault of the remote-pattern switching either. I disconnected the rear diaphragm (true cardioid) and get the same behavior. (By the way, I did not notice any sound difference between remote-cardioid and true cardioid, but this was not a scientific test.)
The sm57 has a huge null in the rear of the mic, but it is dynamic, not an LDC. The Manley has somewhat similar behavior to the U47, but it is more in line with what you would expect. The Manley (k67-type capsule) doesn't have the same rejection as an sm57, and the rear has a bassy tone, but it sounds much more "rejected" than the rear of the U47 does. I'm not sure if this is typical of K47-type capsules, or maybe just the K7? I can't think of anything that would cause this circuit-wise, especially since I have the rear diaphragm disconnected completely, but please feel free to chime in. I sort of expected the rear of the U47 in cardioid mode to reject as much as the sides do in bi-directional mode.

Thanks
Congrats. For the capsule height see the pic I attached. Cheers
 

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Thank you, Moby! It looks like I'm 3mm off/short. Maybe a little washer could add some height while helping to tighten the mount?

Through the process of disassembling the mic to try to tighten the mount, I've now run into a problem. It appears the K7 capsule will not screw in snuggly. This means when I tilt the mic, I can see and hear the capsule angle itself due to gravity. In other words, with the capsule screwed in, I can still lift the capsule with my fingers so there is a 0.5mm gap between the saddle and capsule. I don't know if this is a new issue, or how it was before. I may not have noticed the sound of the capsule shifting, since the mount was so loose before and made its own shifting noise. Either way, I'm having an audio problem, which is easy to replicate by tilting the mic. I'm wondering if it's because the backplate is losing its contact with the polarization voltage whenever it tilts?

Here's an audio clip to demonstrate. Beware: I significantly limited the recording so that you dont blow your ears or speakers with the pops. It goes from low/normal audio level to full-scale clipping when I tilt the mic or touch it in a certain way, so the limiting helps even out that difference: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1579861/U47%20Test%20Problem.mp3

Sometimes it sounds like a continuous explosion instead of a single pop/click. Does this sound like the backplate is losing its connection with the 60V polarization, or could it be anything really? Maybe tilting the mic is causing another wire in the circuit to lose connection. It seems like the K7 should really fit snug though, but the screws just dont go in all the way to tighten any more. I've attached a pic. See how the screws are not in all the way?

Any comments are welcome. Thanks!
 

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The screws you are using are just to long, use some wire cutters and make them shorter!
The capsule moving like you describe is bad news simpley because of the very loud sound it creates
If you cant cut the screws a bit shorter buy some shorter ones.

Eric
 

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