DIY Patchbay

[Che_Guitarra]

Hi all. Hopefully i'm not posting this in the wrong section, but i'm wanting to build my own patchbay.
I'm needing 22 I/Os in a 1RU format, plus space to mount an ATTY and an input switcher... pretty bespoke, but my equipment hasn't changed in years and my workflow is pretty well figured out by now. And 1RU is all I have.

Does anyone know where I can get (or even if they exist) female-to-female TRS adaptors that I could mount in a 19" rack panel? Hopefully with a footprint small enough that I could mount in vertical pairs.

 

[bjosephs]

Is the plan to panel mount 1/4” TRS jacks and solder directly to their backs? These will fit a pair vertically. I’ve used them in that way.

If you plan on soldering some normalling then you’ll need the kind with switching contacts.

When I considered this project I figured I’d make a PCB for each node using these.

Keep in mind that there are 1/4” patch bays for ~$150 available with switchable configurations and no soldering. Jacks have gotten really pricey.

 

[kags]

Does anyone know where I can get (or even if they exist) female-to-female TRS adaptors that I could mount in a 19" rack panel? Hopefully with a footprint small enough that I could mount in vertical pairs.

There are TRS panel-mount feedthru connectors, like these:
https://www.redco.com/Redco-PM-TRS-TRS.html

However, if you get a TRS patch bay, it will allow normallimg options.

Maybe Redco or someone sells partially loaded TRS bays with feedthru and normals?

 

[kags]

neutrik /Rean makes it

It’s about 3 bucks per pair. The whole bay is only $115, so take your choice.

 

[Che_Guitarra]

Thanks all. I was having a serious brain-fade last night - couldn't nail the keywords in a search. For some reason I had it in my head that I would need a bunch of F2F barrel adaptors, but I finally found a bunch of likely options through Mouser. Will have another look tonight - my concern was that switchcraft style sockets might be a bit too large to tuck neatly/vertically behind a faceplate. Not wrong about prices either... I haven't built much since covid - I could easily buy an off the shelf patchbay for what this will likely cost - too bad I like things just-so.

Below is my starting point layout. Front panels are easy enough to find. No real idea what the rear panel will look like at this stage - I might just bend up an ally bar.

 

[kags]

The Neutrik patch points (above) have normals, so they mount top/bottom. You would get 12 pieces and have two rows. I like your idea of a custom bay- keeps things tidy

 

[Che_Guitarra]

Can anyone help confirm a component for me?

I want to put a switch on this patchbay that will allow me to flick inputs on a pair of XLRs (mic/line selector).

I think this is what I need (6PDT push button switch):
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK/F6UEETB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYNShXVbC7r7N1m9P2ZLpsYw=

The image is throwing me off though - not sure if a generic file pic, or the correct pinout - I would think I would need to be seeing 18 pins (3x6)?

 

[kags]

Yes - generic image - click on data sheet to see other options.

https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/240/fpush-3050205.pdf

 

[Brian Roth]

That Mouser picture is misleading. F6UEETB dies not include any sort of "button" on the end of the switch actuator shaft or any mounting hardware; those are extra items.

Bri

 

[oran.outan]

Hi,
I don’t know if that can help, but I currently working on a 1U DIY patch bay too…
More like a classic one… with D-sub on the back, TrS in front.
It’s based on 2 Pcb link together, on Each PCB 8 TRS and d-sub on the back… it can be set to isolated/half normal/fully normal…
You could easily adapt it to your need… I mean replace the D-sub with wire and arrange what you need…

Here is a picture, that may be more clear…



I have to finish the build and final test…
I may have 4 Pcb left if you want them…

^^
0-0

 

[MidnightArrakis]

Some stuff for you:




[F6UEETB does not include any sort of "button" on the end of the switch actuator shaft or any mounting hardware; those are extra items] -- See below:



Hopes this helps!!!

/

 

[sodderboy]

Incredible effort. I could never justify making my own bay because, there is anything else better to do than make a bay from scratch. It’s a commodity, and uber designed products exist to fit my needs.
I’ve built bays from component parts, where you load AA points into vintage panels and other unique situations..
The D hole TRS would be absolute chore to patch around, the tab will give you patching caluses! The cheapie inline barrels are complete garbaggio. The pcb mount normalled jacks als Neutrik are much better. If there’s no normaling, why not use XLR, or if it is a stereo only sitch use the stereo euro broadcast jams (expensive!) on a beautiful panel.
The aforementioned Redco can laser a huge diagonal logo on any panel config you want. Beautiful work!
Change happens. The more custom a bay is the more it will have to travel with the eqpt or room, and is basically worthless without either. A 26 over 26 Neutrik has value. Take it apart and customize the face with epoxy paint, reconfigure as change happens.
Mike

 

[MidnightArrakis]

Thanks all. I was having a serious brain-fade last night - couldn't nail the keywords in a search. For some reason I had it in my head that I would need a bunch of F2F barrel adaptors, but I finally found a bunch of likely options through Mouser. Will have another look tonight - my concern was that switchcraft style sockets might be a bit too large to tuck neatly/vertically behind a faceplate. Not wrong about prices either... I haven't built much since covid - I could easily buy an off the shelf patchbay for what this will likely cost - too bad I like things just-so.

Below is my starting point layout. Front panels are easy enough to find. No real idea what the rear panel will look like at this stage - I might just bend up an ally bar.

View attachment 130859

MORE STUFF!!!


/

 

[kags]

Switchcraft also makes these mini TT bays with Dsubs on the rear. Switchable normals. 1.5 RU high and 5 fit across a 19" rack. $244 at Redco.

 

[MidnightArrakis]

Thanks all. I was having a serious brain-fade last night - couldn't nail the keywords in a search. For some reason I had it in my head that I would need a bunch of F2F barrel adaptors, but I finally found a bunch of likely options through Mouser. Will have another look tonight - my concern was that switchcraft style sockets might be a bit too large to tuck neatly/vertically behind a faceplate. Not wrong about prices either... I haven't built much since covid - I could easily buy an off the shelf patchbay for what this will likely cost - too bad I like things just-so.

Below is my starting point layout. Front panels are easy enough to find. No real idea what the rear panel will look like at this stage - I might just bend up an ally bar.

View attachment 130859

Something like THIS???



-- Of course.....if you are able to provide me with what all of your -- exact -- dimensions are, then I can easily modify what you see here to be exactly what you are looking for!!! YA-A-A-A-A-A-A-YYY!!!.....

NOTE: This 1U rack-panel is 0.125in THK (3.175mm) aluminum with 0.50in (12.7mm) top and bottom flanges (for strength). However, the flanges are optional and can also be easily removed, should you not want them. (NOTE: The flanges prevent the rack-panel from flexing during insertion and extraction of the connectors).

/

 

[Che_Guitarra]

View attachment 131347

Something like THIS???

View attachment 131344

-- Of course.....if you are able to provide me with what all of your -- exact -- dimensions are, then I can easily modify what you see here to be exactly what you are looking for!!! YA-A-A-A-A-A-A-YYY!!!.....

NOTE: This 1U rack-panel is 0.125in THK (3.175mm) aluminum with 0.50in (12.7mm) top and bottom flanges (for strength). However, the flanges are optional and can also be easily removed, should you not want them. (NOTE: The flanges prevent the rack-panel from flexing during insertion and extraction of the connectors).

/

Gotta love a CNC! I would happily go your route, but I have one of my own for tasks exactly like this

Faceplate is ready to go - rings around socket centres only to visualize clearance needs.
Was going to mount the full ATTY PCB by the pot, but looks like a single component design so I might delete to just the pot so I can keep the spacing regular.



Just waiting on the parts to arrive from Mouser so I can confirm final diameters and spacing.

Those dsub boxes are the bomb - I absolutely would have gone this route if I knew they existed two weeks ago!

But mindfulness has prevailed - using 6.35mm TRS sockets on the back... I must have 50 TRS/Jack to XLR cables in the kitty, so time to put them to use.

The sockets i've ordered can be soldered or mounted to a PCB... I might design a PCB for the task if my OCD reigns supreme, otherwise, will just go for an old fashioned hand solder solution.