TubeMonkey
Well-known member
you need the 340 sub board as it's the discrete amplifier driving the output transformer. Not sure what "problem" you are talking about unless i've missed something....
Hello Bemelodic,Hi everyone,
I'm relatively new to DIY and after reading the threads on this board, It will likely be the last project I get from DIY-RACKED since they don't answer email support requests.
I'm stuck on the PSU. The PCB for the PSU is v1.0, I have 2200uf capacitors, all else is per the BOM. I'm getting a short somewhere in the PSU. Anyone encounter this problem before?
Also, I noticed that the toroid provided, is only putting out 15v per secondary rather than 25v it is supposed to. I don't believe this would impact the unusual draw the PSU is experiencing.
Any help would be appreciated.
I do have the ground going to the star ground on the case. The star ground is connected directly to the IEC ground.Hi Bemelodic,
i don't have experience with this psu, but component placement looks right according to the diy-racked manual.
Did you use isolation material when you screwed on the voltage regulators to the heatsinks or is there a connection to the case somewhere?
eBay isolation pads
Hello Bemelodic,
Yeah, my experience with DIY-RACKED was also less than stellar as I have posed earlier in this thread ( elsewhere within this forum? ).
Not to defend, if you are a very experienced builder their kits may be acceptable. I too won't be purchasing any further kits from DIY-RACKED for a myriad of reasons.
The above aside, your photos look ok, but... here's a shot of my PSU from the same view that your photo shows.
I measured my AC input at the terminals on the PSU = 27VAC-ish on both legs. +24/-24VDC at the output terminals. US120VAC input.
I'd disconnect the PSU from the I/P transformer, test and verify. If that's outputting 25-ish volts, then something on your PSU is miss wired. As mentioned above, make sure your voltage regulators are isolated from the heatsinks.
Good luck!
Hi Jason, absolutly right! .... Theoretically the shield represents the conductor, the core represents the shield. My cables in my build are very short and so they do not lead over any critical components. So I did not notice any unintentionally induction into the Signal. It is easy to switch them. Thanks to eagle eye Jason. Great man ....View attachment 100640
Here's one of the wiring issues / conflicts with the schematic that i spotted... not sure if it matters or not.
I know in Igor's docs he says R44, but could be different on these i guess?set the bias to about 260-280mVDC
Hi Jason, the testpoints are TP A and B.Ahh crap I have got R44 shooting out smoke whenever I plug the amp340 in. I've done as suggested, ccw turn on the trimmer installed on the amp340 board (all the way left - maybe I need to bring it up a little??). Or is it a trimmer elsewhere on the board that I need to sort too? Damn I'm all out of 10r resistors now haha
You definitely wouldn't hate Heikki's transformerless diode comp.... Guessing his newest version is even better.I really wish we had a better option available to us than Purusha's kit
I'm still slowly putting together his transformerless varimu, and haven't really spent much time looking at the diode comp, but I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks for the recommendation!You definitely wouldn't hate Heikki's transformerless diode comp.... Guessing his newest version is even better.
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