Drip Opto LA-2A V3 completed!!!

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Biasrocks said:
canidoit said:
that's why I jumped the DIY band wagon. I thought, hey kool, no one will be able to tell that this is home made when I build it.  8)

Kool, you'll have a Urei 1176 that you can pass off as an original to some unsuspecting chump.

All hail Pursha!

That's what DIY is ALL about.  ::)

Mark
Mark, why have you got so much against Purusha?  ???
So much that you take it out on people that have no problems with Purusha, so that you can spread hate?

Why don't you grow some balls and confront the guy?

I may be hesitant to F%^ck up my build, but if I got a problem with someone, I won't go thru a third party to spread hate.

Get a grip mate, seriously. You are trying to impress people on this board by trying to be a DIY bully following me around like a bad smell.

You are very amusing  ;D
 
sigh...  guys this has absolutely NOTHING to do with building Drip LA-2A's. Can you withdraw/delete your "ethics" postings and take it to the brewery? This just creates irrelevant clutter.

Back to the topic on hand. Canidoit, I'm not sure what happened with your switches. I used a Radioshack dpdt for reduction/output metering and it fit perfectly? I actually don't need the switch at all because I've left the +4 output metering disconnected; I just have gain reduction connected.

The "trimmer" you see on my front panel is really just a filler for what would otherwise be a lamp hole - it's not connected. I didn't feel like adding an extra lamp since the VU meter already has one. All the relevant trimmers are on the PCB to avoid more clutter on the inside.

The IEC hole on the case is too big, but I just covered it up and used the IEC connector from the BOM.

Best,

M.
 
I too started a drip ver3 w/ purusha case
But keep getting side tracked  from my build
I've found the exact ac cord connector for the case at allied electronics
part# 689-3518 just double check the dimensions first on the .pdf

madriaanse great looking build
For drips opto I went with greg's t4 and sowter,allied pwr  from his BOM
I do however have the UA orig(reissue) parts for a P2P
Now if I can just find the time..........
Have any of you guy's used the optional pcb case grounds?
I think I'll stay away from them unless I have a problem
I believe the biggest pain in the ass is starting up the drip project after
a long break I'm going to have to go over alot stuff again
 
madriaanse said:
I ran into one (minor) problem; the "OUTPUT +4/G. REDUCTION" switch only works in gain reduction mode, but not in output mode. I haven't investigated it yet, but has anyone else ran into this? Any pointers?

Thanks!!!

M.
I ran thru the same issues as well but I solved it. Did you solve yours?

Are you using this switch recommended by Purusha?
http://www.banzaieffects.com/Heavy-Duty-DPDT-Toggle-pr-16274.html

If so, I encountered the same problem following Drips manual and using that switch. I solved it by playing around the wiring configuration with the Top and Bottom coming from that switch. I think I kept the P the same but swapped the other 2 for one of the set. I also remember swapping the Top set and the Bottom set in that switch wiring configuration. So my bottom set went to the top set and vice versa.

The solution is there I reckon.
 
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