EZ Tube Mixer Support Thread

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ruffrecords

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Quite a few people are now building mixers based on the EZ Tube Mixer concept and we are beginning to get a lot of questions about building it so I think it is time to start a thread here specifically to answer queries regarding the build aspects and keep the original thread for theoretical and development issues.

The basic project documentation can be found here:

http://www.ianbell.ukfsn.org/EzTubeMixer/docs/EzTubeMixer/

Cheers

Ian
 

Holger

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People like to see messy set ups: rear of my test rack, one module with direct out and switchable insert send/return.
 

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braeden

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I honestly don't know where to post anymore, but here is the Pultec FPD (Revision 2) with what I believe is to be the correct shelving icons.
My sincerest of apologies for taking so long on this, I have recently been converting my MacBook to Windows so I can run Spice, EAGLE and a whole bunch of other things. Corel refused to install for the longest of time :-\

All of that and building my D-AOC, ordering parts... and finishing one of my MK47 units converted to a U48 (why would I do such a thing? don't ask  ;))

I'm hoping the shelving icons are correct and all is good, otherwise let me know... I'll try to be quicker next time ;)

Hope everyone's EzTubeMixers are coming along nicely.

Braeden

(Attached is the Pultec .fpd, just rename to .fpd from .txt)
 

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ruffrecords

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No need to explain Braeden. Thanks for doing this.

Just one question, the line below the word 'MID' is it supposed to be at a slight angle?

Cheers

Ian
 

braeden

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ruffrecords said:
No need to explain Braeden. Thanks for doing this.

Just one question, the line below the word 'MID' is it supposed to be at a slight angle?

Cheers

Ian

Yeah it is, now that you've pointed it out it does look a bit strange :eek:

Here is an updated file with both HPGLs in it, but the newest revision has a perfect straight line instead.

Braeden
 

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ruffrecords

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braeden said:
ruffrecords said:
No need to explain Braeden. Thanks for doing this.

Just one question, the line below the word 'MID' is it supposed to be at a slight angle?

Cheers

Ian

Yeah it is, now that you've pointed it out it does look a bit strange :eek:

Here is an updated file with both HPGLs in it, but the newest revision has a perfect straight line instead.

Braeden

Excellent. Just one more small point. I think the EQ in/out switch may now be too low down. In order not to foul the bottom support rail your components need to be at least 10mm above the bottom of the panel. Since a typical SPST toggle switch mounted horizontally is just over 7mm thick, then its centre ought to be no less than 14mm (10 + 3.5 plus a bit for clearance) from the bottom of the panel. On the current panel it looks to be only 9.71mm above the bottom.

Cheers

Ian
 

anjing

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Hi Ian,
  Would you mind sharing the way you wire the eq bypass switch? I was thinking of using an spdt switch....

Regards,

Pierre
 

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ruffrecords

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anjing said:
Hi Ian,
  Would you mind sharing the way you wire the eq bypass switch? I was thinking of using an spdt switch....

Regards,

Pierre

With the Helios EQ it is very straightforward as there is already provision for a SPDT bypass switch.

With the Pultec EQ you need to use the pad built into the PCB. I have created a drawing showing how to wire this up to the fader, the switch and the EZTubeMixer PCB.

http://www.ianbell.ukfsn.org/EzTubeMixer/docs/EzTubeMixer/3BandPultec/inoutwiringscaled.jpeg

Cheers

Ian
 

anjing

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Wonderfull ian,

    I knew i'd figure out what the pad was for on the pultec....You adjust the 1k trimmer to match the gain loss of the eq?

Thanks again Ian!

BTW the built Helios channel on your blog looks awesome.

Regards,

Pierre
 

ruffrecords

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Hi Pierre,

Yes you just adjust the pot so the EQ out loss is the same as when the EQ is in.

Braeden's artwork is very good. For those who have not seen it here is a pic of the Helios channel.

Cheers

Ian
 

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Holger

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PSU part two, beta stage.
Right 12.6V heater, 12V lamps/relays, center 300V HT, left JLM AC/DC for 48V and auxiliary +/- 24V for future purpose.
 

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ruffrecords

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You have just discovered the really labour intensive part of building a mixer module and how hard it is to keep it neat. For me, one of the big problems is the diameter of the screened cable, both balanced and unbalanced. I spent quite a lot of time searching for good quality small diameter screened cables. For the balanced one I use the 'contractor' range from Van Damme. For normal unscreened cable I found it harder to locate a small diameter cable until I found this:

http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/jy-1088/cable-audio-scrn-1-6mm-100m/dp/1647845

It is less than 2mm in diameter so you can get  three cables easily in the space needed by regular 6mm cable. It is  delicate stuff so it needs to be handled with care but it is ideal for short runs inside a module.

Cheers

Ian
 

braeden

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Holger, any chance of seeing a picture of the front panels yet? What thickness are they? 4mm?

Ian,
I'll fix those problems and send another FPD through to you. By the way, the panels really look the part with the knobs/switches finally installed.

Braeden
 

Holger

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Ian, to me it was clear from the first moment that this will be a labour intensive project. Thanks for the wire link. The photo shows my test mule. As mentioned earlier, I will use 14 HP cassettes for the modules. I'm currently looking for the best component arrangement like where to put pan, aux and switches.
Breaden, the final front panels will be 2.5mm thick.
Currently my test panels look like this and are far away from being final.

 

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anjing

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@ Holger Looks like your getting a lot of progress done. I like your mute switches! Is the master section presentable?
About the cassettes for your modules, aren't you worried about the heat? I recorded for a few hours the other day and i notice the tubes generate a bit of heat after a while.

@ Ian I am facing problems with the cabling. I had bough some belden that was recommended here on the forum. It is not flexible and often slips inside when i strip them, not easy to work with. I'm thinking of desoldering every cable and replacing it with the one you suggested or something similar, maybe some mogami.

 

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