EZ1084EQ NEW BATCH COMING - SEE MY MARCH 27 COMMENT ON PAGE 38

[Bluzzi]

Question on the output TX mounting , assuming the use of a 1 RU case.

Is the EZ1084eq PCB setup for tx mounting on the board with a VTB1847 Carnhill and / or
can the VTB1148 narrow board version be used and fastened to the side of a 1 RU case ?

Good questions. None of the XFRs are PCB mounted (maybe v2 of the PCB?). That would have forced the use of a 2RU case. The VTB1847 is fine and fits in a 1RU (mine is in Dan's case and fits OK). You can use the VTB1148 as well. Reason I used the VTB1847 is because of the colour coded flying leads and I wanted minimal soldering as well as ease of mating to PCB.

The input XFR can be mounted on the side of the case. It has 2 screws that you can use to hold it in place.

which is suggested and will either both work as intended  ?

Although I designed the project to be as easy as possible to build from beginner to expert, I presumed that those with more experience would be able to sub parts they know could work.

They are both spec'd the same. I get the feeling you are comfortable soldering leads to the XFR so get the VTB1148.

just looked at the PCB pic on earlier thread ( link below), looks like output transformer are mechanically
mounted off board,  is this correct ?

http://www.circlesound.ca/images/EZ1084EQ%20Final.jpg

Yes correct. Off board but inside case.

What are PCB board dimensions ? planning layout in suitable 1 RU case ?

The board is about 16in by 7in. you have some room on the right side where the Power and Hipass switches are. You have plenty of room for the XFRs in the back assuming the same size case.

I'm almost finished doing the build guide. I'll try and post some pictures of outside and insides here.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Bluzzi]

Any plans for internal power supply , does'nt look like it but if the 1 ru case was deep enough.... might be ok.

I have some 1 RU cases 37cm deep.

Again its up to you. I wanted to avoid an internal power supply for 2 main reasons. 1: To avoid potential hum problems. 2: Each EQ would need its own power supply. You can power 2, 3 or even 4 EQs if you build an appropriate power supply.

I may eventually experiment with an internal power supply or design an external one to power from 2 up to 4 EQ units.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Slenderchap]

The VTB11478 and VTB1847 are electrically the same so it would not matter..... I like the fact that Jim has the foresight to use the VTB1847 because it has coloured wires and thus reduces the chance of people getting it wrong....

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com

 

[Bluzzi]

Bluzzi

Looking for a BOM is there one posted ? can't seem to find anything

Yes a BOM will be sent this week to all the people that paid for the boards.

Looking at rotary switch options , all MBB type ?

The switches should be as per the BOM (NEVE's specs).

the rotary pads on the PCB are these 0,75mm pins ,
spaced 2.54mm apart for 12 positions one wafer x 5 switches

the last switch 3 x 12 same pin layout as above ?

Interested in using Elma 08 series rotaries part # 08-1113 1x12 , 08-3113 3x12  for this,
wondering if PCB pads are setup for different switch options here ? not sure if footprints
between Grayhill and Elma are same or different - probably not. I have 08 series switches
I'd like to use for this.

I would suggest you save those Elmas for another project as they are not same footprint.

Cheers

Jim

 

[shabtek]

Anybody talked to TAW lately?
I am waiting for a reply from them; what is the cost for the 'cap kit'?
Anyone receive the kit yet?
Are there any substitutions?

 

[Bluzzi]

Anybody talked to TAW lately?
I am waiting for a reply from them; what is the cost for the 'cap kit'?
Anyone receive the kit yet?
Are there any substitutions?

Contact Laura at TAW and ask for SO-0051009. The cost is $44.10 for all caps. They are mostly Wimas. You can sub quite a few of those in other brands or types but watch the footprint. I just wanted a convenient way for others to order from the fewest sources. "EZ" isn't just for looks... ;D

Cheers

Jim

 

[3nity]

Hey i received my pcb first.
I already installed all electrolytics..resistors (except 4M7) and transistors..as well as inductors.
On the BA283-84 section i used ceramics all values in pF.
THe rest of the caps all film caps are available at Digikey from Epcos and Vishay and Panasonic all in their respective lead space.
The only value i couldnt find at their exact lead space was the 220nf...wich i'll buy locally.

All film caps, ceramics and 4M7 resistors + shipping was 29.90 from digikey.
Once i receive the caps and install them i will publish the part #.

Thanks.

 

[Bluzzi]

Thanks 3nity!

3nity has a knack for finding the subs so for those wanting to save a few $$$ wait for his list.

If anyone finds some subs they successfully used please let me know and I will add them to the BOM list as well.

Cheers

Jim

 

[shabtek]

thanks.

boards arrived today too.
yay!

 

[Bluzzi]

thanks.

boards arrived today too.
yay!

Good to hear. How was the condition of the package? Its my first time shipping PCBs and I'd like to get feedback on that.

Thanks.

Jim

 

[Spike]

Mine arrived in perfect condition (UK). My only fear now is that I won't have time to build it what with me often working 7 day weeks nowadays...

 

[Futureman]

Hey there, I'm getting closer to constructing this, and I've got a few questions, sorry if this has been answered.

1 - What type of resistors did you use? Metal film ? Wirewound? Carbon?

2 - What values of resistors are used for the gain switch? These seem to be omitted in the BOM.. I'd assume 1% , and wirewound?

Cheers
Mike

 

[Bluzzi]

Hey there, I'm getting closer to constructing this, and I've got a few questions, sorry if this has been answered.

1 - What type of resistors did you use? Metal film ? Wirewound? Carbon?

Hi Mike. No problem with any questions. Metal film is fine. Not wirewound for sure! I used Metal film throughout on mine and they sound great.

2 - What values of resistors are used for the gain switch? These seem to be omitted in the BOM.. I'd assume 1% , and wirewound?

Please download the latest BOM and Build Guide. It contains the values for the gain switch. 1% metal film is preferred.

Cheers and a Happy DIY

Jim

 

[Futureman]

Please download the latest BOM and Build Guide. It contains the values for the gain switch. 1% metal film is preferred.

Hey, thanks for the prompt reply.

There are still a few resistors in the gain switch as "TBD" as in 'To be determined' . .

I'm guessing if you are using all 12 positions you would use them.. have you determined the values needed?

Also, on the last page of the build instructions, it says to wire Pin 2 of the input and output XLR's together?? I'm pretty sure you mean Pin 1?

The Build instructions sure are detailed and very well put together!

(Once again, sorry if this info is elsewhere)

Kind regards
Mike
(Australia, and it's a lovely 30deg C, nice day for soldering)

 

[3nity]

you can stick to the original stuff 6 positions switch.
but if you want you can add more values but i thinkg its up to you to decide the values in db steps.

For the XLR pin its pretty sure the Pin 1.

 

[Bluzzi]

Please download the latest BOM and Build Guide. It contains the values for the gain switch. 1% metal film is preferred.

Hey, thanks for the prompt reply.

There are still a few resistors in the gain switch as "TBD" as in 'To be determined' . .

I'm guessing if you are using all 12 positions you would use them.. have you determined the values needed?

No sorry I haven't done that. If anyone else has them please let us know.
For now the switch is as per original and is very usable.

Also, on the last page of the build instructions, it says to wire Pin 2 of the input and output XLR's together?? I'm pretty sure you mean Pin 1?

How the hell did I let that one by! Thanks for pointing that out! I've corrected it (yes its pin 1) and uploaded a new version of the Build Guide.

The Build instructions sure are detailed and very well put together!

Thanks for the kudos on that. Wanted to make it as easy as possible for beginners and a reference for experienced DIY'ers.

(Australia, and it's a lovely 30deg C, nice day for soldering)

Well its not 30 here! Its closer to -30! 

Cheers

Jim

 

[Bluzzi]

Thanks to everyone that participated on this project. It took me a while  : but it was my first project where I did the layout for the PCB and prototyped it. I learned an immense amount about design.

Hmmm......wonder what's next!  :-X

Cheers to all.

Jim

 

[Futureman]

Anyone in Australia looking for Switch 7?

Mouser 611-ET01-004

This is the only part I could not get locally, and as mouser is too expensive for postage, I bought 10 off a seller on the bay for $27

So, I got 8 spare.

Let me know if you need some.

 

[3nity]

WOW.
Im so happy this is my first completed build of the year.
I did somethins my way and im happy.
This project its so easy to build that even a beginner will do it.

Its flawless.

Thanks.

 

[Bluzzi]

Thanks for the nice words 3nity! You helped me a lot so its nice to see you have your own.

Cheers

Jim

WOW.
Im so happy this is my first completed build of the year.
I did somethins my way and im happy.
This project its so easy to build that even a beginner will do it.

Its flawless.

Thanks.