EZ1084EQ NEW BATCH COMING - SEE MY MARCH 27 COMMENT ON PAGE 38

[Bluzzi]

I know how frustrating it can be when things don't work at first (that is why I worked so hard into making this a fail safe project). My 2 units and several local ones here in Montreal that I have tried are all operating well. So don't worry we'll get yours going too.

Is your LPF jumper on the correct position? I have not tried it to "off" position with all components for the LPF soldered in. Don't think it is that but just check. It only takes a minute. What does it do if you do change the jumper position?

Triple check component values. If you still are having problems I can take a look at the board if you ship it to me but let's try and see if we can narrow down problem.

Also did you mean that you are getting that notch filter effect when in the OFF position as well?

Hang in there.

Cheers

Jim

Still troubleshooting over here, still getting weirdness with the LPF.

So far I have reflowed all solder joints, checked continuity between all components and traces, double checked all component placement, even swapped out the 9044 inductors. Everything appears to be fine, and everything besides the LPF is working properly.

I still am getting a just a narrow, deep cut at the following frequencies starting from the off position: 12k, 9.5k, 6.6k, 5.7k, 4.2k

Am I missing something? Is everyone else's LPF functioning properly? Perhaps my switch is bad, or maybe a cap? This is a bit past my comprehension so if anyone could offer some advice I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[adeptusmajor]

Man, I am an idiot. I knew it had to be something stupid, I guess what was stupid was me.

I looked at the jumper silkscreen as meaning 1+2 = "bypass on", so I had 2+3 jumpered. I could have sworn I had checked that multiple times, maybe I just checked with the jumper removed and in the 2+3 position. Or I just heard the switch doing something and assumed it was the correct position.

Anyway, all is well. Sorry about the hysteria. And I guess I discovered a nifty bonus feature with the notch filter! Hell, maybe I'll even add a switch for it.


EDIT: Oh, and thanks for the reply, and the offer to check out my board for me. Above and beyond any help I would have expected.

 

[Bluzzi]

No need to beat yourself on that. You found it and now you can use your EQ and enjoy it. You should be proud. Glad we got it worked out.

Cheers

Jim

Man, I am an idiot. I knew it had to be something stupid, I guess what was stupid was me.

I looked at the jumper silkscreen as meaning 1+2 = "bypass on", so I had 2+3 jumpered. I could have sworn I had checked that multiple times, maybe I just checked with the jumper removed and in the 2+3 position. Or I just heard the switch doing something and assumed it was the correct position.

Anyway, all is well. Sorry about the hysteria. And I guess I discovered a nifty bonus feature with the notch filter! Hell, maybe I'll even add a switch for it.


EDIT: Oh, and thanks for the reply, and the offer to check out my board for me. Above and beyond any help I would have expected.

 

[adeptusmajor]

I just had a look at the build guide (v6), and it said to jump pins 1 and 2 if not using the filter. I guess that is where I got the idea to put it on 2 and 3, it passes no audio without the jumper. Is this a mistake? Not sure what version build guide you are on now.

 

[Bluzzi]

I just had a look at the build guide (v6), and it said to jump pins 1 and 2 if not using the filter. I guess that is where I got the idea to put it on 2 and 3, it passes no audio without the jumper. Is this a mistake? Not sure what version build guide you are on now.

The current version of Build Guide is v11. It shows positions 1 & 2 as filter "in circuit" which is the correct way. No jumper passes no audio that is correct.

I don't have v6 build guide so it may have been an error back then.

Cheers

Jim

 

[PeterL]

Jim, sorry I did not post to the board sooner, but as I mentioned via email I received the two boards and have been working on them as much as I have been able to over the last few weeks. Kudos to you for putting this together and making so much info available for this project. I will be ordering two of Dan's cases as I get closer to completion. Can't wait!

 

[rafafredd]

Is there any boards left?

 

[Bluzzi]

I have plenty left. You can reach me at [email protected]

Cheers

Jim

 

[electrisizer]

a new baby is born an sitting in mixbus!!!  sounds really really fabulous. especially the highs are so lovley thanks jim!!!
(even if i have so much desire to an 8x1084 summing tool now)

 

[lumpylipton]

Hey, does anyone have any tips on how to remove the stops (tiny pieces of wire) once inserted into Grayhill switches?  I've got one in the wrong position, and I can't figure out a clever way to remove it without disassembling the switch. 

Any tips would be appreciated.  The stop is all the way in, so no way to grab it, and it's tight enough that tapping the switch does not cause it to come out.

Thanks!
Warren

 

[baadc0de]

Hey, does anyone have any tips on how to remove the stops (tiny pieces of wire) once inserted into Grayhill switches?  I've got one in the wrong position, and I can't figure out a clever way to remove it without disassembling the switch. 

Any tips would be appreciated.  The stop is all the way in, so no way to grab it, and it's tight enough that tapping the switch does not cause it to come out.

Thanks!
Warren

Magnet?

 

[Bluzzi]

a new baby is born an sitting in mixbus!!!  sounds really really fabulous. especially the highs are so lovley thanks jim!!!
(even if i have so much desire to an 8x1084 summing tool now)

I love your dual 1084 in 1 case! Or is that an optical illusion? Great Job!

Enjoy

Cheers

Jim

 

[Bluzzi]

Hey, does anyone have any tips on how to remove the stops (tiny pieces of wire) once inserted into Grayhill switches?  I've got one in the wrong position, and I can't figure out a clever way to remove it without disassembling the switch. 

Any tips would be appreciated.  The stop is all the way in, so no way to grab it, and it's tight enough that tapping the switch does not cause it to come out.

Thanks!
Warren

Warren,

Try contacting with a vibrating tool such as a drill. Also in the kitchen a food processor or whipper. Just make contact with the Grayhill with holes pointing down. Hopefully gravity will work. Try also pointing up because vibration sometimes causes objects in cylinders to rise (I've experienced that phenomenon).

Try that and get back to us here.

Cheers

Jim

 

[electrisizer]

a new baby is born an sitting in mixbus!!!  sounds really really fabulous. especially the highs are so lovley thanks jim!!!
(even if i have so much desire to an 8x1084 summing tool now)

I love your dual 1084 in 1 case! Or is that an optical illusion? Great Job!

Enjoy

Cheers

Jim

yes there are two 1084 one case i drilled it my own and the letters and numbers are from seno transfer films... that was a dodgy job!
but - i wolud really like to have 8 x 1084 in one case

 

[Bluzzi]

a new baby is born an sitting in mixbus!!!  sounds really really fabulous. especially the highs are so lovley thanks jim!!!
(even if i have so much desire to an 8x1084 summing tool now)

I love your dual 1084 in 1 case! Or is that an optical illusion? Great Job!

Enjoy

Cheers

Jim

yes there are two 1084 one case i drilled it my own and the letters and numbers are from seno transfer films... that was a dodgy job!
but - i wolud really like to have 8 x 1084 in one case

Amazing! Drilling your own was no small accomplishment! Those tolerances are not small (I know I designed the panel). I have more boards waiting for you here! 

Anytime.

Cheers

Jim

 

[lumpylipton]

Hey Jim and others,

I was successful in removing the pin from the Grayhill I put in the wrong hole with a magnet.  In fact, it popped right out when I brought the magnet close!!  Great idea, thanks a lot.

Now, onto the next issue, when powered up, the unit passes audio in bypass mode, but absolutely nothing in EQ in or with just the amp circuit in.  From reading this forum, the most common problem seems to be mis-connecting the transformers.  I have triple checked them (I'm not using the fivefish board, but I am using screw terminals on the board) and I'm quite sure they are right.  There is a slight hum when the bypass switch is in the lower position (amp circuit in), but turning the gain knob doesn't change the level.
I built this with the lo pass option, my jumpers are set (1290 is not used, so jumpered, and lo pass jumpered across 1-2), I used relays, and I've checked voltages at obvious points (ie 24 v, 0 volts), and the leds on the bypass switch change colours when at different settings.
Does anyone have transistor voltages or other points of interest voltages so I can begin to troubleshoot?  Any other obvious hints before I try to decipher the Neve schems?
Thanks.
Warren

 

[Bluzzi]

Hi Warren,

The most common problem actually is cold solder joints and the most common place is the Gain switch but check them all. sometimes the vias (the holes that join a bottom trace to a top trace need to be soldered a bit more.

So check your soldering first. I have a practice tonight but I'll try and check the jumpers with my unit here to make sure you have them right.

Also make sure the XLRs are grounded.

Cheers

Jim

Hey Jim and others,

I was successful in removing the pin from the Grayhill I put in the wrong hole with a magnet.  In fact, it popped right out when I brought the magnet close!!  Great idea, thanks a lot.

Now, onto the next issue, when powered up, the unit passes audio in bypass mode, but absolutely nothing in EQ in or with just the amp circuit in.  From reading this forum, the most common problem seems to be mis-connecting the transformers.  I have triple checked them (I'm not using the fivefish board, but I am using screw terminals on the board) and I'm quite sure they are right.  There is a slight hum when the bypass switch is in the lower position (amp circuit in), but turning the gain knob doesn't change the level.
I built this with the lo pass option, my jumpers are set (1290 is not used, so jumpered, and lo pass jumpered across 1-2), I used relays, and I've checked voltages at obvious points (ie 24 v, 0 volts), and the leds on the bypass switch change colours when at different settings.
Does anyone have transistor voltages or other points of interest voltages so I can begin to troubleshoot?  Any other obvious hints before I try to decipher the Neve schems?
Thanks.
Warren

 

[lumpylipton]

Interesting, I thought that the holes are plated- through, in which case, no solder is required on vias, since they are already connected. I will solder those, as well as reflow my joints. I did examine all the tiny solder joints on the switches with a magnifier, since I suspected that they could be a problem.

I'll report on my findings. Thanks Jim.

 

[Bluzzi]

Interesting, I thought that the holes are plated- through, in which case, no solder is required on vias, since they are already connected. I will solder those, as well as reflow my joints. I did examine all the tiny solder joints on the switches with a magnifier, since I suspected that they could be a problem.

I'll report on my findings. Thanks Jim.

Exactly but in reality some vias may not be fully plated. Also the extra plating requires a little more solder with a little more soldering time in order to get it to flow better. I'm not saying it is the problem but it does not hurt to check. I always advise check soldering first then we go on to other things if the problem persists.

Cheers

Jim

 

[lumpylipton]

OK, more troubleshooting....the signal is not making it past the input transformer.  As in, I've got nice signal going into the transformer on pin 2 and 5, but all that's coming out is a loud buzz on pins 7-10 (the output pins).  I've disconnected the output pins from the screw terminals to take the rest of the circuit out, but same thing, loud buzz on pins 7 through 10.  I then verified the DC resistance of the output coils as per Carnhills specs, they both (pin 7 to 9 and pin 8 to 10) measure the correct 56 ohms.  I'm mystified, do I have a bad transformer?  Upon very close inspection, there are no pins shorted (those would also have screwed up the coil resistance anyways). 

Anything else to check or try?
Thanks,
Warren