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I forgot to mention that the finish will be bead blasted/nickel plated. I have some preliminary numbers. I need to factor in finishing costs, headbasket assembly costs, and then get new pricing. Looking like a run of 30 sets. This is crazy, was not expecting this much turnout. So I will have some pricing as soon as I can.

Love,
Damian
 
Hi Damian,

Your timing couldn't be better for me!  I was just starting to look into getting bodies for a pair of DIY M49's.  The work you are doing looks fantastic.

So if this comes together at a reasonable cost, please count me in for two of them.

Many thanks,
Jeri
 
I am hoping that the stars align for a lot of things these days! I wanted to put it out there that at this point the PCB top caps will be 3D printed, white in color. They will not be transparent. I do have access to some injection molding equipment, however the costs for that are just too high. If this is a deal breaker for you guys, please let me know. For me:

It's inside the mic, you won't see it.
The ABS material the 3D printer uses has very good insulating properties.
The ABS material is durable and easy to work with if you need to sand it, drill it, etc.
It's cheaper.

I plan on waiting until this coming Monday morning to give a number for new pricing. It looks like 40 pieces right now.
 
I have the mesh sourced now. It's going to be 304 alloy stainless...

Wow, we are up to 50 mics! (41 minimum, 50 max per this thread so far).

I can see why these group buys turn into businesses. There is a lot that goes into it!

I am putting together my pricing on things like shipping materials, head basket assembly, plating, etc. I found a local business that can do the nickel plating, but I need to review the product with them in order to get their price.

I will get a ballpark cost from the plating people and add it to my costs, and then to the machining costs for a quantity of 50 on Monday (hopefully).

For fun, here is a picture of how you will be able to set the height of the internal components (PCB plate, cap, and capsule). In purple is the top face of the interior of the base piece. The orange is the bottom face of the PCB plate. In between the four purple circles and four orange circles will be your threaded rod. This way you can set the height to whatever you want.

(Oh, just a reminder that the logo dot circle will not be there. I need to update the model to reflect.)

Cheers everyone, time for a bowl of cereal with some cold 2%...
 

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Seeing as there is now a convenient place to stick a PCB on, all we need now is a PCB :) :) anyone want to do that, there seems to be a lot of takers for the mic body here?
 
I would but it iseems this project is more suited to P to P ,

Dan the project seeker,


 
I agree, eapecially all the high-Z stuff needs to be off the board. And then AC701 has its grid connection on the opposite side of other subminis.
 
riggler said:
I agree, eapecially all the high-Z stuff needs to be off the board. And then AC701 has its grid connection on the opposite side of other subminis.

Well, as you can see in the tons of pictures I send you, almost all component are placed under the plastic cover, including the high.Z stuff. So if we had a nice round pcb underneath the plastic cover, similar to the  C12 pcb made by Matador and Chunger, this would be a really cool project. A miniature tube like the EF732 would fit in there as well. I wouldn´t mind if Dan provided a pcb for this project. But it is up to you, Damien. It´s your project.
regards
Bernd
 

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Well for me to do PCBs... We'd have to agree on a circuit and layout. Some people want to do M49, some M50. Mine is going to be pretty much like an M50, but with 5703 (or maybe 5840). The 5840 tube is pretty much the EF732, right? AC701 has the grid lead on the other side of the tube from the rest.

Anyway, some people will want to do their own thing entirely.

The only PCBs I have ever made were home-etch. The original mics look like some sort of phenolic board with turrets, and then built point to point over that. Oliver Archut has a good write-up on this on the Tab Funkenwerk site.

If someone wants to take care of PCBs, I have no objections, but I am pretty maxed out right now to be able to take that on. The board size to fit my parts is a diameter of 60mm.

Bernd, your pics are wonderful, I just wanted to publicly say thanks!

I am going to try to get pricing out there tonight.
 
TLM49ArchutModschematic.jpg


TLM49ConversionLayout.jpg


Something like that! Dan? There are copyrights on this, don´t forget!!
regards
Bernd
 
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