Flat Cable Wire Stripper

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He removes the outer shell with what seems a pro UTP stripper, and then resorts to the venerable 2$ wire stripper to do the wires inside...

LOL. I mean, who are they fooling with their complicated looking black magic mojo?

Also, there seems to be very little copper in this cable. I would never use that as a speaker cable.
This is an interconnect cable, not a speaker cable.
 
I accidentally found this via a DuckDuckGo search and I THINK it's posted by "WireWorld":



Shrug.....should be a similar process to set it up for XLR terminations.

Bri

PS, in that video, I saw mention of "arrows on the cable". Guess it's another example of
"the audio must flow in THIS direction" voodoo.

Also, it's also VERY important to have source components above receiving components for the ultimate audiophile tweek.

Electrons, having mass, flow better when heading downhill.
 
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I would suggest you buy some cable from a reputable brand such as Belden who build cable properly, and far cheaper by the way.
Thanks, but this wire is perfectly acceptable for long, non-critical AV audio runs. And that's exactly what I'm doing with it. It was cheap and plentiful.

I would enjoy talking more about wire, but not here. I'd like to keep this thread about flat wire strippers.

Thanks.
 
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I use something like this for stripping 2/3/4 core flat wires.
You can cut a meter sample from your wire, bring to a local electrical hardware shop and try before purchase.
Regards
I use the same or similar - they have variable tension screw as well and can easily strip 4 cables at once - I have 2 both set for different cable thicknesses. The outer sheath stripping, for cables like that, I use a rotary blade sheath cutter which has 4 cable diameters on a rotating stop-block to cut varying sized sheaths. I use it for all my mic cables and also network cables. I removed the second blade that cuts the inner core sheath otherwise it’s not suitable for mic or network cables - it’s designed for coax single core - very quick and very neat, you just set the size of the outer jacket on the insert, clip it over the cable and rotate once.
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I'm trying to find a good stripper tool so I can start using it.

Howdy! I use this type of wire stripper for that sort of task. It can strip more than one small wire at a time. Sometimes it takes two swipes to do the job - first to remove the outer insulation, and second to remove the insulation on the smaller wires inside.

Most wire strippers are made for round cable, such as the one used for prepping RG6 , RG58, and RG11 cable someone else suggested. Those are not good for stripping flat insulation as they are designed to clamp and spin around a round conductor, such as RG6. And that is just MY take, having used them for prepping radio transmission lines. Good luck. James / K8JHR
 

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Well I'm old skool and bought a pair of these about 25 years ago.
I don't like most of the "Automatic" types as you have no control over what they do, and sometimes they do what you don't want them to do.

These you set by hand for each individual job.
I am so used to doing that, I never mess up.


https://www.tester.co.uk/itl-insulated-end-wire-strippers
 
Howdy! I use this type of wire stripper for that sort of task. It can strip more than one small wire at a time. Sometimes it takes two swipes to do the job - first to remove the outer insulation, and second to remove the insulation on the smaller wires inside.

Most wire strippers are made for round cable, such as the one used for prepping RG6 , RG58, and RG11 cable someone else suggested. Those are not good for stripping flat insulation as they are designed to clamp and spin around a round conductor, such as RG6. And that is just MY take, having used them for prepping radio transmission lines. Good luck. James / K8JHR
The outer sheath of the three flat cable sets is round so for the outer sheath only, the clip and rotate sheath stripper will work fine.
For the individual wires I also have a similar pair of strippers to the one you’ve shown but depending on the thickness of insulation on four cables as in star quad mic cable for instance, I have found that the el-cheapo yellow and orange ones seem to work best for the tougher insulation if set on heavy. The more expensive one is ideal for thinner stranded wires as it doesn’t tear them to bits. It doesn’t seem to have enough clamp or blade tension to strip the harder installation if there are several in a flat line - this may be to do with the star quad imparting twist to the individual cables and they don’t sit flat too well in the jaws.
 
Well I'm old skool and bought a pair of these about 25 years ago.
I don't like most of the "Automatic" types as you have no control over what they do, and sometimes they do what you don't want them to do.

These you set by hand for each individual job.
I am so used to doing that, I never mess up.


https://www.tester.co.uk/itl-insulated-end-wire-strippers
Thanks. These might do the trick but I'm having trouble finding them in the USA.
 
I have had succes with cables similar to that by simply bending the flat over back on itself and gently running the blade of a mini trim knife/box cutter (with a new blade) across the apex of the bend - not pushing in far enough to score the copper - the insulation on that side then parts easily as it’s under stress and the wires don’t get touched, then roll the blade around the two edges with the blade to cut the surface to mark a join of the two flat cuts - you then fold it back the opposite way and do the same in exactly the same location on the opposite side using the side cuts to line up your blade, the insulation slides off easily after that. If you can’t pull it off easily by hand then you can use the old yellow/orange strippers to finish off.
 
I recently purchased 100 meters of WireWorld Oasis 8 interconnect cable. It has 4 flat conductors( see picture below)
I'm trying to find a good stripper tool so I can start using it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Michael MacDonald
AlgoRhythms Mastering
Just use thermal wire strippers.
 
The cable is shielded with the helix twist, like Belden Media Twist cable.

That is misusing the term "shield." Twisting is not shielding. You can buy shielded or unshielded MediaTwist cable. A shield means continuous coaxial coverage, either with foil, braid, or overlapping spiral winding.
The proper term for that cable is unshielded twisted triple.
 
Also, it's also VERY important to have source components above receiving components for the ultimate audiophile tweek.

Electrons, having mass, flow better when heading downhill.
" Electrons, having mass, flow better when heading downhill."

HA!HA!HA!

So much stupid bullshit in eight words.
You made my day ! :)))

Been a long time I did not laugh that much !

More seriously, I've been here since many years, but I never could imagine to read such crap one day on Group DIY...
:-(((
 
I have a strip tool for Belden Media Twist. I thought about recommending it but Media Twist isn't flat cable. It's more of a half moon. The strip tool blade is straight. Not a half moon.
 
" Electrons, having mass, flow better when heading downhill."

HA!HA!HA!

So much stupid bullshit in eight words.
You made my day ! :)))

Been a long time I did not laugh that much !

More seriously, I've been here since many years, but I never could imagine to read such crap one day on Group DIY...
:-(((
You do realize that was satire, right?
 
I believe the cable shield fully encloses the inner flat cable set wrapped helically around the surrounding round inner core, conductor to conductor with no gap, surrounding that the outer sheath binding it in place. Plenty of cables use spiral wound, others use braid. They will both separate and leave gaps in the shield on the outside of the bend when forced around tight corners - the braid less than the helical.
 
There is no braid or foil shield in the cable in question. There are four flat, stranded wires twisted inside a double walled plastic shell. The inner shell is very different from the exterior one. Possibly a plastic "shield"?
 
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