Greenlee Punches

[Youngwhisk]

I always have the workpiece free, supported flat on a wooden martyr, where I can easily move it and allow the tip of the bit to follow the punch.

I do the same thing when drilling aluminum or acrylic but if practical when drilling steel I will also clamp (not contacting the work piece) something to the table taller than the work piece in case the bit grabs and causes the work piece to spin (which has happened more than a few times).

 

[abbey road d enfer]

I always have the workpiece free, supported flat on a wooden martyr, where I can easily move it and allow the tip of the bit to follow the punch.

I do the same thing when drilling aluminum or acrylic but if practical when drilling steel I will also clamp (not contacting the work piece) something to the table taller than the work piece in case the bit grabs and causes the work piece to spin (which has happened more than a few times).

Excellent recommendation. I always make sure that I have a pair of heavy-duty gloves handy.

 

[CalavoBob]

Anybody have knockout punches for D sub 9 pin and D Sub 15 pin connectors they want to sell at a stupidly low price?

 

[Gold]

Anybody have knockout punches for D sub 9 pin and D Sub 15 pin connectors they want to sell at a stupidly low price?

I feel your pain. Used they go for like $350. I’d like one but it’s hard to justify the expense for occasional use. I use my micromill or hack it with a rotary tool and a hand drill.

 

[Mixermend]

In the UK punches made by Q Max are widely available - they work very well and last a very long time. They work even better when used with a thrust race bearing, reducing the effort required considerably, even on quite thick sheet.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

In the UK punches made by Q Max are widely available - they work very well and last a very long time.

Agreed, but they lack the rounded rectangular sizes that are problematic for DIY'ers.
It's strange they have not registered this potential market.

 

[Tubetec]

I have a UK made hole cutter in a box somewhere but it seems to be missing a washer , so it doesnt work right , Ive been wanting to fix that up .

I had to drill out an audio interface back panel recently to accomodate an XLR 4 pin , I found it usefull to double sided tape the workpiece to a chunk of timber or screw it down if you can , then drill the pilot hole , then move onto the step drill ,

I generally dislike working at table height with the hand drill , the reason is your not bringing your weight to bear directly down on the drill and its harder to control .

I often hold a short plank of timber with the work piece attached under my foot or knee on the ground , then come down from above with the drill , both hands used to steady things and prevent that dreaded chattering sound the moment before things go wrong .

 

[gyraf]

seems to be missing a washer , so it doesnt work right , Ive been wanting to fix that up

I use these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1755621915.html