GROUP BUY: Universal Audio 176 - a 100% faithful recreation of a legend! CLOSED!

[Phrazemaster]

Hi Mike,
Not trying to rain on your parade!...But the most Common ACTUAL used where the smaller Langevin and Smaller Daven attenuators!
I have an original and the most common Langevin was the small Model 1923 non balanced and mine also has a very rare output being the Cinema engineering 7250 on the output. These are original with untouched solder joints.......
The Cinema is one of the coolest looking done in Blue anodized with a yellow sticker.........
Anyway there are a few units that you will see with the larger stepped attenuators. But the many I have seen in person and in pictures tend to have the small Davens and the smaller Langevin Attenuators.
This is what was happening in the mid 1960,s. The larger Attenuators are left over from the 1950,s.
Of course most 600/600 2 db step 40db will work in these units.....

Very cool you where able to get Shallco to make these.....Maybe we should have had a group buy.????

Best,
John

Hey John - no worries man! It's kind of hard to get the info on these kinds of things, so I welcome your input! Yeah the Shallco's are pretty big though! I would much preferred to have found vintage units but could not seem to find any after many, many months of diligent searching.

I tried to find a Langevin "model 1923" you shared but could not. Is that the exact part number? If not, can you share the exact numbers/model number etc.  from the attenuators, if that isn't too big a deal?

Any more data on what the exact parts were for other units is most welcome.

Thanks!

Mike

 

[jslstudio]

Hey John - no worries man! It's kind of hard to get the info on these kinds of things, so I welcome your input! Yeah the Shallco's are pretty big though! I would much preferred to have found vintage units but could not seem to find any after many, many months of diligent searching.

I tried to find a Langevin "model 1923" you shared but could not. Is that the exact part number? If not, can you share the exact numbers/model number etc.  from the attenuators, if that isn't too big a deal?

Any more data on what the exact parts were for other units is most welcome.

Thanks!

Mike

Yeah,
I hear you! I search very day just about ! OCD... I will take some pics and dig up some specs....But If I recall when you pull
up the Langevin model #,s They will actually show the spec. If It is just one #. As in Langevin  TYPE 1923 .
Will get back to you!
John

 

[Phrazemaster]

Yeah,
I hear you! I search very day just about ! OCD... I will take some pics and dig up some specs....But If I recall when you pull
up the Langevin model #,s They will actually show the spec. If It is just one #. As in Langevin  TYPE 1923 .
Will get back to you!
John

Thanks John. Lady Google doesn't find that part number, but I'm sure someone could find it in some old catalog...

Thanks!

Mike

 

[mro]

Hi guys, meters and shields were posted out on 31 May. Please let me know when they arrive so I can stop worrying about the post. So far its cost me over 300 to help you all out, so I hope they all arrive. Cheers

0-17 shield made it's way to Warsaw, Poland. Thank you Johnny!

As for the Daven attenuators I'v spotted at least five of them (600/600, 40dB att 2 dB pre steb, sometimes with the knob) for under 70$ on ebay since Rainton started the project . I didn't go for it since I want to use just T-pads in those spots and in place of verniers put a meter switch and (possibly) a SCF. But if you want Daven or Schalco for a fair price it's doable, just be patient 

 

[Phrazemaster]

0-17 shield made it's way to Warsaw, Poland. Thank you Johnny!

As for the Daven attenuators I'v spotted at least five of them (600/600, 40dB att 2 dB pre steb, sometimes with the knob) for under 70$ on ebay since Rainton started the project . I didn't go for it since I want to use just T-pads in those spots and in place of verniers put a meter switch and (possibly) a SCF. But if you want Daven or Schalco for a fair price it's doable, just be patient 

Ah but the devil is in the details. I too have been watching those, and most have an "off" on the last step. I actually watched these for months and months and months. You probably don't want one with an "off."

Also, the other even bigger issue is the mounting. Most of the Davens I saw do not have the threaded bushing mount that will fit the original part; they have 2 screws which would require some drilling/jery rigging.

In any case, good luck!

Mike

 

[Potato Cakes]

I ordered some 2x24 Elma switches and I'm going to work out how to do ladder and T-pads out of them. I've worked out the numbers for the ladder but haven't settled on a good way to do the T-pad. I'll let you guys know when I get this sorted. Hopefully it will be a good alternative to trying to source old switches.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Phrazemaster]

I ordered some 2x24 Elma switches and I'm going to work out how to do ladder and T-pads out of them. I've worked out the numbers for the ladder but haven't settled on a good way to do the T-pad. I'll let you guys know when I get this sorted. Hopefully it will be a good alternative to trying to source old switches.

Thanks!

Paul

In the long run it will probably be easier!

Although, "old switches" may be an accurate term, believe me those Daven's are ANYTHING but ratty! They have incredible build quality and feel and were made to last a 100 years, literally. Silver contacts, built like tanks. There's a reason they go for so much money.

 

[jslstudio]

In the long run it will probably be easier!

Although, "old switches" may be an accurate term, believe me those Daven's are ANYTHING but ratty! They have incredible build quality and feel and were made to last a 100 years, literally. Silver contacts, built like tanks. There's a reason they go for so much money.
[/quote

This is actual FACT! Not Just the Davens..But also these small sealed Langevins in my original 175b...Still feel great and NO scratchy noise!
The build quality of most early Pro Audio is nothing like it.......
I have Vintage Altec A322C with Big  Davens original..from early to mid 50,s.........Still work great!!!! Pop the back off and clean the contacts....Good as new. This stuff is working ART as far as I am concerned....

 

[rainton]

Hey guys,

I've posted this to the FB group already, so I'll also post it here:

I have good news and not so good news:

The good news first: The 176 chassis arrived and as far as I could check they all look absolutely great!

The not so good news:
The 176 faceplates arrived as well and unfortunately the quality of the print is far below my expectations to say the least. It's actually intolerable.

The faceplates (to be mounted on top of the chassis front panel) are made of thin aluminum which is then silkscreened black and finally aa white silkscreening on top. The white print actually looks good, but that's about it.

I really don't get it - it's the same printing house that does all my panels - and looking at the tube opto - they all look very good. (I have to add though that all the tube opto comp and Pultec style front panels get powder coated elsewhere and only the scales etc. are silkscreened.)

Anyway, the black printing seems to have all kind of dust & dirt underneath, some have scratches across the panels and some panels are even bent or have dents.

Even the ones that look better still not meet my expectations of a high quality product which is what I want to deliver.
I even talked to their boss last week and he said they are all ok except one - he actually said they came out pretty nicely...and when I opened the package I was like WTF?! What were they thinking?

Folks, I know you all have been waiting for a long time now, and I'm really sorry about that, but I just can't send out kits with faceplates like that. It's one of the most important parts of the entire kit and it has to be perfect!

What I'm gonna do now: I will get in touch with the printing house on Monday letting them know that what they delivered in terms of the 176 panels is not acceptable.
I want them to refund the expenses for the laser cut aluminum face plates I provided as they messed up my entire batch.

Furthermore I already talked to the company who does the metalwork and they will do another run of faceplates for me "super-express" - meaning within a couple of days.

Then I won't send them to the printing house to have them printed black, but will have all panels anodized black instead.
That's more expensive, but judging on the anodized tube opto compressor parts it should look amazing. The draw back is that this step can take up to two weeks until we can forward the panels to have the scales etc. printed on them.

If I can come to an agreement with the printing house regarding the messed-up panels I will also tie them down to print the new panels as soon as they reach their doorsteps.(usually lead time is 2-3 weeks)
Again I'm very sorry guys, but it especially since we all have been waiting so long, I owe it to you to deliver nothing but a great product - and that's what I'm gonna do...
I attached some pics, so you know what I'm talking about.

 

[jslstudio]

No Worries Martin,
Huge undertaking...But yeah those look like shit................I want them like the one you posted! At beginning of thread!
Appreciate the perfection because that is what I want!
Thank,s
John

 

[ilfungo]

Also for me no problem
and thanks for your great work!!!
Thanks!!!

 

[Potato Cakes]

All good, brother.

Do what you need to do and just know that there is no pressure or malicious thoughts directly your way from the rest of your DIY compatriots. This is totally out of your control.

The upside is this gives us more time to gather parts.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Phrazemaster]

Martin I've been nothing but impressed with what you do, so if you feel it needs to be redone, then it does. I know everyone supports you here in that regard.

Best,

Mike

 

[Phrazemaster]

By the way, does anyone know if the main knobs are 1.5" diameter? I found both 1.5" and 2". Damn bakelite is expensive if you want the real deal.

 

[jslstudio]

I bought the real deal......1.5" on the real unit. I bought two for $30 good deal! They should say Viz on the back in a small circle.
Hope that helps.
John

 

[Phrazemaster]

I bought the real deal......1.5" on the real unit. I bought two for $30 good deal! They should say Viz on the back in a small circle.
Hope that helps.
John

Good on ya!

Yes that really helps thx John! Envy you got a real unit! Good for you!

 

[jslstudio]

For anybody looking for proper voltage Power Transformer and size.

650V CT  6.3V and 5.0V      USA Made.

He has another batch coming........

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PT325-2-USA-POWER-TRANSFORMER-TUBE-AUDIO-650Vac-325-0-55-325-x90mA/163082066284?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[jeanpierreisyou]

Hey guys, was just wondering if there was a preferred tube manufacturer for all the tubes. Would NOS RCA's work well? Thanks!

 

[jeanpierreisyou]

For anybody looking for proper voltage Power Transformer and size.

650V CT  6.3V and 5.0V      USA Made.

He has another batch coming........

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PT325-2-USA-POWER-TRANSFORMER-TUBE-AUDIO-650Vac-325-0-55-325-x90mA/163082066284?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Do you know the original Power Transformer specs? And is this one closer compared to the Hammond?

 

[jslstudio]

Original is 117V 60 cycle 650V CT  6.3V and 5.0V .  I have been searching all over for the original. And Chicago transformers
are one of the ones I see the most with the 117V .

I found a Stancore model that had exact specs but was physically smaller.....I am sure that the original can be had. And I am still
searching.

John