GROUP BUY: Universal Audio 176 - a 100% faithful recreation of a legend! CLOSED!

[Potato Cakes]

What is the lead spacing needed for C3 and C4 to match the PCBs?

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Potato Cakes]

Also, does anyone have any modern recommendations for C6 & C7? There seem to be an abundance of old Soviet old caps, but I'm not too keen on using old oil caps for the obvious reasons. Would I just find an axial film equivalent and install it inside the case? I'd like to make use of the cutouts on the case for aesthetics, but ultimately I'm more concerned about how it sounds.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

Nothing wrong with Oil can capacitors! They last forever If they do not lose their oil. I have them in a lot of my vintage gear....
I had only one that has physically leaked.
Older gear was made with better raw materials in my opinion.  But many poly caps can be used as some have had those also.

Also here is a link for the EXACT proper mono long frame mono Switchcraft jacks. ...I put witchcraft......
Universal audio used these with  the angled ground lug. So It would be out of the way. If you are going for original HI/LO
on separate jacks these are what you want for authentic build.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253698681243?ul_noapp=true

Many people would run stereo tip/ring/sleeve witchcraft on original units and plug the two holes. Thats how my original was.
But I put it back stock.

John

 

[Potato Cakes]

Then if I do use oil caps I would need to know the dimensions so it would fit the cut out. Does anyone have this info?

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

Yes,
Martin went with the wider ones that where on some of the later UA 176.  Double check with Martin!
But I am pretty sure these are the wide spacing ones he went with.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222628240213

John

 

[Potato Cakes]

Sounds great. Standing by.

The last couple of bits I still haven't sorted out are the trimmer values for plate, cathode, and meter zero, and how many decks are needed for each rotary switch. I did not see this info posted earlier in this thread so forgive me if they have.

Also, does anyone have a link for the correct terminal board and screws for this project?

I believe that is all I am missing to finish this project.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

All linear potentiometers -  Cathode  100 ohms and Plate  1K, GR zero  1K  . Modified post to show link above for oil can caps!
I believe switch ( 3 ) is a 3 pole 3 position and it is single deck.

John

 

[Potato Cakes]

Thanks for the info and the link.

The BOM calls for 0.5uF and the one in the link are 1uF. Does this difference in values matter for what these capacitors are doing in this circuit?

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

Usually
You can always go a little higher in rating without ever hurting anything.  My original UA 175b has 1.0uf 600v oil cans.
Hope that helps!
John

 

[Potato Cakes]

Thanks for all the replies!

One last one (for now), where can I find the correct mounts for O-1 to attach it to the chassis. From the pictures it looks like it is some sort of tube mount.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[jslstudio]

Ebay.....
$20 bucks....Studio electronics....But you can probably find for cheaper If you want to save. I think its pretty much a capacitor clamp
for chassis mount.
John

 

[jeanpierreisyou]

Hey guys! just wondering a couple things:

What rotary switches did the original UA 176 use? I was looking at elma switches and was wondering if those are ok?

Also, what is the correct jewel lamp cover for this unit? I didn't see anything about that on the BOM.

Thanks!

 

[jeanpierreisyou]

Sorry, forgot to ask, what is the diameter of the smaller front panel knobs (ratio, veneer, etc)? Thanks!

 

[mutterd]

Hey Everyone,

I know this has been closed for a while, and for sure this is a long shot - but Rainton - if you happened to make a spare one of these  kits thats not yet claimed, or if anyone has an extra one of these kits kicking around, or if someone got multiples and has since changed their minds - please let me know.

I'll take it off your hands - I would love to get in on this!

Thanks!
Timothy

 

[Phrazemaster]

Sorry, forgot to ask, what is the diameter of the smaller front panel knobs (ratio, veneer, etc)? Thanks!

I believe it's 3/4" - can anyone verify this?

 

[jslstudio]

YES...3/4" originals very hard to find now...reissues on eBay...Studio electronics.

 

[rainton]

Hey guys,
I have news concerning the 176 panels.
We had another badge of them made - this time anodized black and they are already at the printing house.

Now the owner called me and said they were about to print the panels but taking a closer look, in his opinion the quality of the anodic layer is not up to par with our demands...

...and if they should still go on printing the panels it would completely up to my responsibility.

Well, I couldn't judge from the pic he sent me, so we decided he would send all panels to me, so I can judge for myself.

If I think they are good enough, I will send them back to the printing house for printing - BUT they're closed next week and the week after for holidays...

If they are not living up to my expectations we'll have to have them re-done anyway...

I don't know what it is that makes this project so complicated...duh!

Besides - I received the CNC'd turret boards last week hoping they would be ready to stake the turrets.
But the holes for the turrets were too small!! Checked my dxf files and the hole diameter was correct there.

Right diameter should be 1.52mm and the holes in the boards were merely 1.2mm.
Turned out the CNC get's pretty unprecise when moulding into fiberglass boards for values below 2mm - especially when the holes have to be that deep.
All boards went back to the manufacturer straight away and the holes will now be drilled instead of moulded..

Anyway I'll hang in there until we have some proper kits!
I'll keep you posted on the progress.

Sorry for that epic delay guys!

 

[jslstudio]

Just curious?
How come you cant just have the people who did the one of your proto type? Do them?
That one looks great from the pictures?
Thank,s
John

 

[BramK]

I don't know what it is that makes this project so complicated...duh!

----

Anyway I'll hang in there until we have some proper kits!
I'll keep you posted on the progress.

Sorry for that epic delay guys!

It's your epic dedication to quality and detail, and it's totally worth the wait. Thank you!

 

[xarolium]

Hi guys, meters and shields were posted out on 31 May. Please let me know when they arrive so I can stop worrying about the post. So far its cost me over 300 to help you all out, so I hope they all arrive. Cheers

I contacted moltenwok a month ago to tell him that i still not get my package with API 361 meters,
He told me to wait, but today still nothing so i asked him to be refund and he told me that he doesn't want.
So i paid 100$ for nothing and i still missing the API 361 meters to complete my 176 build.

If someone have a pair of spare API 361 i'm in to buy it
Let me know

thank you