Rasta3 said:Hi Jon, thanks for the answers.
About the high pass filter cap, I just thought the same thing. I just wanted to be sure the 4u7 was the "stock" value for that circuit. I didn't want either more or less bass, but I'm sure I wouldn't even notice the difference, if not in particular circumstances, as you said.
If 4.7uF, try MKT capacitor - Siemens/Epcos MKT should fit circuit without any problem. Any radial, small sized MKT.
If higher, try Electrolytic 10uF - 22uF Elna Silmic II.
10uF is reasonable value.
Rasta3 said:About the biasing method, I'm not sure I understood it completely.
What I understood....I have to test the complete circuit (with transformer and 75pF cap instead of the capsule), connect the circuit through a pre and turn the phantom power on, put the black probe of a multimeter to ground hole and the red probe to the drain hole near the fet, turn the variable resistor screw till I get 11,5V, is everything right until this point? Could I just leave it like this? I mean, I know it isn't a perfect bias, but at least is in the right working range, isn't it?
You need to connect capacitor (don't have to be 500V, 50V-100V is sufficient as also 50pF-100pF range) between electrical signal source (from generator - virtual or equipment) and JFET Gate. Circuit need to be properly grounded and completed.
Don't need to connect of polarisation voltage node.
Setting voltge around 11.5V should be sufficient.
Rasta3 said:What I didn't undestood...where do I feed the audio signal into the circuit? And how to adjust it by ear? Am I assuming to understand an exact spot where it can be considered biased? Also, as I want to make a "stereo set", can I replicate the bias by ear for the two mics?
How to feed signal, see above.
Setting bias by the ear - apply 1kHz into the input, during adjusting potentiometer in the circuit you will hear change of the level, so your 1kHz will be louder or quieter. During whole operation you need to find the point where amplitude is highest - it's easy - signal will be increasing during adjusting and after the highest level it will drop very fast. Unfortunately you will have to repeat few times whole operation to catch that point
Another method - same as above but use any VST spectrum analyzer to see where is the higher level during pot adjustement or make complete microphone with capsule installed, and use speaker as signal source for the capsule.
Minus of the speaker as a signal source is that you will have to mount the PCB from the other side than the front of the capsule, to get possibility of potentiometer adjustement.
Rasta3 said:One last question, about the transformer, I took the tiny neutrik nte10/3 suggested from In76d. I attached the pic for schematic. Are the dots plus, minus, or is the same as long as I refer to them equally?
Still interested if anyone can suggest me if it's worth removing the inner mesh layer from the headbasket.
Thanks
For 10:1 ratio (JB schematic for reference):
RED to C3
BLACK to ground
WHITE to R10
YELLOW to R9
I'm not sure is it properly working as 7:1 (6.x:1), i think i measured it this way but don't remember well.
For now i have no option to test that.
You can try to use switch for test!
Wire switch (SPDT type ON-ON) between RED and BLUE and the output of the switch to the C3.
Now you can test two possibilties 10:1 and ca. 7:1.
With 7:1 microphone output level will be higher and if works properly then frequency response will be similar to 10:1.
You can hear what output level is better for your needs.
This operation is independent from biasing etc.
For headbasket - usual one layer sounds better from my experience.
If you setup bias and complete whole microphone circuit with capsule installed, unscrew headbasket.
Do voice test - grab microphone (with whole body metal parts attached and option to take off headbasket) with one hand for the metal base, and with another hand keep headbasket (rather don't cover front of the capsule ). Compare between headbasket installed and without it. Without headbasket you can have problem with hum, so find the place in your listening room where there's lowest problem with hum (it's strongly dependent from your listening gear, amps preamps, psu, wall AC voltage etc.)
You can also try to cover a little the backside of the diaphragm (don't touch capsule) with a hand (second hand always keep metal pipe of the mic body). If you have variable HPF in your preamp, you can use it.
Difference which you should notice is mostly in the upper midrange and high frequency area.
Weak headbasket will usual overbright or make more nasal sounding microphone.
If you find that difference then after removing internal mesh should be better response, more neutral.