GssL 20th Anniversary edition

[oldskool1]

I'm late to the party, any boards left?

 

[chrispbass]

I'm late to the party, any boards left?

gerbers in post 1

 

[Lipaz]

Wow, I just realized this thread and the 20th anniversary version/gift. Very nice, thank you for all contributers!

One quick question: as I see this PCB won’t be able to accommodate a pair of original DBX 202 (black ones for example that I have) due to this missing pin layout per schematics and pcb photo… so is it possible to create and solder somehow a small converter PCB at the correct place, that will accommodate the dbx cans?

Merry christmas and happy holidays everyone!

 

[Gustav]

Wow, I just realized this thread and the 20th anniversary version/gift. Very nice, thank you for all contributers!

One quick question: as I see this PCB won’t be able to accommodate a pair of original DBX 202 (black ones for example that I have) due to this missing pin layout per schematics and pcb photo… so is it possible to create and solder somehow a small converter PCB at the correct place, that will accommodate the dbx cans?

Merry christmas and happy holidays everyone!

If you really want, you can grab a vero board in the colour format, and wire up an edge connector for a DBX can into the THAT 2180 footprint to tag onto it.

I hope to see some olden, golden days DIY spirit being poured into that, and you could be a front runner

Gustav

 

[janczmok]

I just ordered black JLCPCB, minimum is 5 so i have 4 for sale. Let me know if somebody is interested (just want to recoup my costs, not for making any money)

 

[rezen]

I just ordered black JLCPCB, minimum is 5 so i have 4 for sale. Let me know if somebody is interested (just want to recoup my costs, not for making any money)

I'm interested, could you send me a PM?

 

[sterin]

I just ordered black JLCPCB, minimum is 5 so i have 4 for sale. Let me know if somebody is interested (just want to recoup my costs, not for making any money)

Hello, I would be interested too, kind regards

 

[janczmok]

Okay, needed to make some changes to the PCB order (cut lines) - hopefully right now. Also increased the PCB to 10.
So based on JLCPCB, the costs are 19,16 EUR excluding shipping. I would send it by "letter" mail, so usually it will be padded envelope plus shipment.
On Deutsche Post it will be between 6,80 and 8,90 shipment inside europe, to USA 11 EUR, to Japan 12 EUR
I noted down all interested parties, coming to a total of 10 currently,, so all boards are spoken for.

janczmok, Sterin, rezen, inf0, Script, Lipaz, Moggerz, JMan, Andado, oldskool1

Update (29/12): Primary check went thru. PCBs are in production, Secondary check brought issues. Costs might be slightly higher as we need a 4 layer not 2 layer PCB
Update (30/12): Added last interesting partied, waiting for revised costs from JLCPCB

 

[Moggerz]

Okay, needed to make some changes to the PCB order (cut lines) - hopefully right now. Also increased the PCB to 10.
So based on JLCPCB, the costs are 19,16 EUR excluding shipping. I would send it by "letter" mail, so usually it will be padded envelope plus shipment.
On Deutsche Post it will be between 6,80 and 8,90 shipment inside europe, to USA 11 EUR, to Japan 12 EUR
I noted down all interested parties, coming to a total of 6 currently:

janczmok 1
Sterin 1
rezen 1
inf0 1
Script 1
Lipaz 1

would love one too

 

[Andado]

Okay, needed to make some changes to the PCB order (cut lines) - hopefully right now. Also increased the PCB to 10.
So based on JLCPCB, the costs are 19,16 EUR excluding shipping. I would send it by "letter" mail, so usually it will be padded envelope plus shipment.
On Deutsche Post it will be between 6,80 and 8,90 shipment inside europe, to USA 11 EUR, to Japan 12 EUR
I noted down all interested parties, coming to a total of 8 currently:

janczmok, Sterin, rezen, inf0, Script, Lipaz, Moggerz, JMan

Update (29/12): Primary check went thru. PCBs are in production, Secondary check brought issues. Costs might be slightly higher as we need a 4 layer not 2 layer PCB

I’m also interested

 

[janczmok]

Here's an updated .fpd file. Based on Gustav's file but pure white lettering with a few things added/changed.

How does it look?

Nice. Question: Which power switch do you use ?

 

[desol]

Nice. Question: Which power switch do you use ?

Thanks. I didn't specify any power switch in particular, just a 6mm hole or something. The .fpd file should say.

 

[Lipaz]

Happy New Year!

As a newbie, I learn (and I have to learn) a lot thanks to this project, and I need your help.

I spent a lot of time since Xmas trying to understand the board and reviewing at least the uploaded BOM list vs PCB layout, each component and trace with critical eyes, and I double checked PCB silkscreen scripts too. I already have a cosmetically corrected new silkscreen (a value was wrong too) + a new BOM list with hyperlinks in Excel, sitting as drafts on my Google Drive. My goal is to finish this Rev 3 board as much as we are able together, and in a way that total beginners like me will understand a layout in general and will be able to procure correct parts and build it.

So before anyone starts to order PCBs (I know it's a bit late for some) without reading the entire thread, could you help me (us) with Rev 3 board's errata?

"Rev 3 errata R59 and R60, 0R instead of 10K, +12V to gain, remove cable line, and run to the a point on the GND node gathering."

According to this, if f I understand schematics right,

• the yellow circled 10K resistors are the R59 and R60 parts that should be replaced by 0R jumpers in Blend L and R. Is this correct?
• and the other part of the sentence (+12V to Gain...) is about the blue line on the screenshot that is running from POS 12VDC to Gain pot connectors nbr 3 leg? How should we modify that exactly? Is this to make this pot unipolar instead of bipolar (so 0dB fully turned left, and +20dB fully turned right)?

If you make a clear advice how trace should be cut and maybe railed to elsewhere, I try to mod the gerber (and upload for verification). Even if you just use Paint.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Gustav]

• the yellow circled 10K resistors are the R59 and R60 parts that should be replaced by 0R jumpers in Blend L and R. Is this correct?

Yes. Or possibly replace them with a trimmer in series with a resistor. It just changes the total gain in the blend circuit, and it would be great to hear some feedback from builders and users how they prefer it to be before cementing it.

For one, I dont know if most people prefer the center point to be 0dB with the clean/dirty run flat and mixed, or the "full clean" side to gain match, so lets see what we hear back

• and the other part of the sentence (+12V to Gain...) is about the blue line on the screenshot that is running from POS 12VDC to Gain pot connectors nbr 3 leg? How should we modify that exactly? Is this to make this pot unipolar instead of bipolar (so 0dB fully turned left, and +20dB fully turned right)

There is no need to do that. Just cut the +12V wire on the gain connector and run it from the pot to the where the GNDs group up/to the side of one of the jumpers. Without the correction, your makeup gain will go from negative to positive. with the correction, the make-up gain will only have positive gain.

When the project has lived for a while, when a few people have actually ordered the BOM and posted any corrections based on verification with an actual build, when a few builders have reported real life practical issues, I will touch up the Gerber and nudge the BOM into place

Gustav

 

[Andado]

Sorry for noob question, So this board can replace the old design even if you just want to build a Vanilla Gssl in a 1U case? And later can add stuff to it and expand functions. Will build my first Gssl and deciding what route to go. ScHpf is a must though!

 

[janczmok]

PCB has been shipped from JLCPCB to me today; so will arrive next week likely.

After inspection i will contact you regarding payment

 

[Gustav]

Sorry for noob question, So this board can replace the old design even if you just want to build a Vanilla Gssl in a 1U case? And later can add stuff to it and expand functions. Will build my first Gssl and deciding what route to go. ScHpf is a must though!

Yes, it will, just know that the real world tests build population is currently 1, while the GssL has 20 years of verification and thousands of builds, so you can be pretty sure nothing odd was overlooked and needs to be corrected.

I sectioned everything, so it wont be rocket science to omit and jump the elements you dont want.

Gustav

 

[Andado]

Yes, it will, just know that the real world tests build population is currently 1, while the GssL has 20 years of verification and thousands of builds, so you can be pretty sure nothing odd was overlooked and needs to be corrected.

I sectioned everything, so it wont be rocket science to omit and jump the elements you dont want.

Gustav

Okay thank you Gustav. I really like the 1 board approach in the new design.

 

[Lipaz]

I see now. I can speak only for myself... I'm on the side that "full clean" should gain match, but before finalization, testing with a trim is good idea indeed. In terms of Dry/Wet Blend, I'm used to the setup where it ranges from 0% Dry (i.e. clean when it's turned fully left counterclock-wise) to 100% Wet (i.e. dirty when it's turned fully right clockwise), and pot is naturally linear as in BOM.
As for the gain pot, the negative valuesin make-up gain are not that bad actually, thus I might keep that third leg in the connector as it is; it really depends on the audio program and the mixing flow whether it's useful or not at that moment. Just an example, the dbx 160A is using -20/+20dB Gain pot, but even SSL G Buss Compressor ranges from -5 to +15dB and their new Bus+ is -10/+20 (thus, both with assymetrically printed dB values on front panel).

Anyway I'm looking forward to my test PCB from next week and start to install parts as soon as they are delivered.

@Gustav I share my version of silkscreen, if you want to double check what and how I corrected. Most important correction is changing the 220nF (C125) to 330nF in SC SWITCH section (and changed 10K to 0R resistors in Blend L and R as mentioned above). Rest is cosmetics for better value reading if this is someone's first project.
I also share my compiled BOM just to avoid mistakes and delay (in case the builders have no spare parts at home); it is based on your BOM but making corrections per PCB layout, so proper quantity is in column B on every sheet. Otherwise the file and comments are easy to undertand I think. I added hyperlinks for suggested parts per major electric stores where it is available at this moment
Both files will be removed as soon as finals are uploaded in future available in first post of this thread.

Google Drive link: Silkscreen and BOM Rev3 _ Lipaz version