GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[dustbro]

[quote author="madreza"]UP

please !!! it's very urgent !
I get very little lows ( almost no bass )
and I need the comp for an important recording session

thx[/quote]
Sounds like you'll need to rent one until the issue is solved

 

[madreza]

I think so !!!!!
:?

it's a shame ! I love that comp on vocals !

 

[gyraf]

[quote author="madreza"]UP

please !!! it's very urgent !
I get very little lows ( almost no bass )
and I need the comp for an important recording session

thx[/quote]

Check input/output interfacing - loss of bass is nearly always associated with wrong balancing/unbalancing/transformerbalancing.

If this does not resolve your problen, try running both inputs and outputs unbalanced, that is xlr pins 3 grounded

Jakob E.

 

[madreza]

Great Jakob
Many thanks ( again and again ...... :grin: )

I'll try this soon

 

[gyraf]

Another reason (in theory) could be blown in- or output electrolytics in case phantopm power has been applied by accident. But I've never actually seen this happen in real-life.

Jakob E.

 

[PSI]

Hi everyone,

My GGSL works brilliantly apart from one thing:

One time out of about ten, when the unit is switched on the meter and compression don't kick in....it does still pass audio, but unaffected.

I noticed that a few of the times this has happened, the meter will rise all the way to the top or just do nothing as stated.....switching the gssl off and on again seems to sort the problem, but i'd sooner it be perfect.

Could anyone save me a minor heartattack and give me any idea what this could be?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you


P

 

[gyraf]

Bad voltage regulator. Measure unit voltages (+/-12 and +/-15V) under not-started-though-power-on conditions, and change the regulator that fails to start every time.

Jakob E.

 

[PSI]

Hi Jakob,

I hate it when you're right!.... :roll:

It was one of the 12v regulators...or it appears to be. Hasn't done it's "nothingness" just yet.

Thank you for your advice and this project.

Regards

Paul :thumb:

 

[drive]

i got resistors at my local electronics shop, some of the resistors they sold me are not the exact value, instead of 22k they gave me 22,1, instead of 56k the gave me 56.2k and instead of 620k they gave me 619k, can I use these or not ?
Also, on the pcb there is a star behind behind a 1k mark and 2 stars behind a 2k mark, what does his mean ?

 

[PTMIX]

[quote author="drive"]i got resistors at my local electronics shop, some of the resistors they sold me are not the exact value, instead of 22k they gave me 22,1, instead of 56k the gave me 56.2k and instead of 620k they gave me 619k, can I use these or not ?
Also, on the pcb there is a star behind behind a 1k mark and 2 stars behind a 2k mark, what does his mean ?[/quote]

DRIVE>>>

YES.....
Resistors aren't always the "stated" Ohm value, hence the 1%, 5%, 10% color band marking. Your stated drift is very small and well within the "1%" spec, and most projects won't be bothered with such a small difference!!

With that said, i'm prob a little OCD and what i do is usually buy a few more components then stated in the BOM, and pickout the best "spec" ones to use!!

As for the stars (*) i remember reading that the 1K ones on the PCB's are really just for reference for the PCB designers or something, i don't think they concern us builders. The 2K one is for the meter sensitivity depending on if you use the stated Behringer. other meters you'll have to figure out what resistance to use.....

I know that your later question is answered earlier in this thread.... Also checkout this page, it helped me out with similar questions:

http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml

LAST PAGE ON PDF
http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.pdf


GOOD LUCK,

~J~

 

[Hammond]

I have Vishay Spectrol 50k linear potentiometers but they are marked 1 2 3 instead of + - , how does it connect to the control pcb?

I've seen the greg's bom says there are 9 100 pf ceramic capacitors needed but on the pcb there are 10. 10 is right?

What's the center hole under the ratio lorlin for?

Thanks in advance

 

[madreza]

Jakob, Thanks for your 2nd answer !
I think I have blown up my output Caps !
gonna change them !
thx
:sam:

 

[drive]

 

[drive]

 

[udenjoe]

I'm having a problem finding the right tantalum caps. They are no longer at Digikey. By Gregs helpful list. I'm willing to add some changes to that BOM Greg. You can get THATs at mouser now.

Will this work?
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=199D474X9035A1V1E3virtualkey61320000virtualkey74-199D35V0.47-E3

What is the requirement of the tantalums? Need help finding replacement from Greg's list.

Also Greg's list has nine 100p caps but the board has ten. Am I missing something or what?

Edit: Thanks alot Greg. Much appreciated. :wink:

 

[Greg]

That tant will work fine... as long as the value and voltage is correct.

Yes, ten 100p is correct. My mistake.

 

[Esset]

search thru most of the pages in this thread and can't find a solution to this:

Unit 1:
IC's on voltages seem ok except for this: Left VCA (using 2180's) on the NE5534 pin 8(!!!) voltage is +11V and on the output IC NE5532 pin 7(!!!) the voltage is +12V.

Right channel isn't passing audio (input seem to be working but no output) but seem to be compressing (meter i moving).

Left channel working and sounding beautiful.


Unit 2:
Right channel not passing audio, left channel is. However when compressing it makes this plosive sound (imagin a P-sound in a condenser mic with no pop-screen) which is passed through both left and right output, making the left channel duck (like a ducker function).



I've build 3 of these units with no problem before, so this is really starting to irritate me. I've check polarization och diods and caps, dubble and tripple checked them, can't find any shorts or solderblobs either (even had some other DIY-fellas nearby taken a look at them with no luck).

Any ideas on where to start over, I'm running out of ideas.

EDIT:: When removing the IC's the voltages drop back down to +-0V (if this helps knowing). I've switched/replacing the IC's which didn't help

 

[gyraf]

No simple solution.

Check and recheck - component values, orientation, and soldering.

Jakob E.

 

[briangibson]

so i just built the GSSL clone, and it worked okay, but after doing some soldering tweaks the left channel disappeared. after shifting around the VCA's, i brought it back, but now it's gone again. what sections on the board relate specifically to just the left channel? the right channel passes audio and sounds ok. thanks,
brian

 

[gyraf]

Brian,

read the schematic. look at the pcb layout. not complicated.

Jakob E.