GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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According to the german data sheet, red+violet goes together to centre, and black and white goes to the outers. the logic is that you want 0-15-30V AC, that is a centre tap with 15VAC to each side.

Jakob E.
 
 
I just wanted to say that I finally after many months of reading and checking and removing parts and more reading I powered my GSSL up last night and it WORKED!!!!

I have the wrong switch in the release position and when I dial in a non-existant setting I get this crazy distortion, but I think I like it :grin:

Anyhow, you've all been a great help and I wanted to say thank you. I'll put up some pics once I get the front panel fixed up with the marking not in pencil for crying out loud :green:

I love you all. :thumb:
 
Can you roatate the Ratio switch on the PCB so that A=B and B=C etc... while retaining the knobs marks to line up with the FP numbers from Gyraf or Parusha? Darn D-shafts :shock:

These Lorlins are fine right? To sub D-shafts for round.

CK2369 instead of 10WA135
CK2371 instead of 10WA137
CK1461 instead of 10WA167

The round shafts can be found in the upper right of Lorlin Roary switches here:

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/1391.pdf
 
not answering your question, but you may want to make new heatsinks. These wont get very hot, but the purpose of a heat sink is to transfer heat via surface area. You will want to look into using something that has a profile of a square wave at the very least. :thumb: but like I say, the SSL does not get very hot at all.
 
http://www.clairtronic.com/toroidal.htm There is a link on that page with the specifications of the transformer I have.

Just wondering if anyone can let us know how to exactly wire up with this transformer?

Cheers :wink: :guinness:

Edit: I know how to wire the secondary connections to the PCB that''s clear to me but the Primary connections to the IEC I'm not so sure about.
 
Please, good people - you must try to figure out for yourself how to use and connect a power transformer - look at the schematic, the PCB, and apply a bit of logic based on previous questions in this thread.

We can't possibly go through every manufacturers colourcoding here.

Jakob E.
 
Hi,

I think it’s better to check the transformer with a multimeter. Connect your transformer to mains & check the output at secondary with a multimeter. I have checked mine the same way.

Regards
Dinesh
 
Quick question about 2181 and 2180. I've noticed that some people have the 50K Dist Null Trimmer installed and some don't. Is this due to a pretrimmed nature of the 2180?

If I do need a trimmer for the 2181? If so, how do I measure the distortion? Is it as simple as turning it until I 'hear' distortion, then back off?
 
[quote author="RogerFoote"]With 2180s you don't use a symmetry trimpot. With 2181, you do.

The way I learned to measure distortion from old dbx literature is to feed a 100 Hz signal at nominal level into the compressor and look for the 2nd harmonic component on a sectrum analyzer. So, look for a peak at around 200Hz, and trim until it is at the lowest amplitude you can get.
If you go past the "ideal" spot, you will notice the 200Hz harmonic start to rise again and you then know to go the other way with the trim pot.

I don't have a hardware spectrum analyzer anymore, so I use a plug in called "Periscope" from AudioEase on my DAW to measure with.

It is probably best to use a 24 bit system for this. Mine is a "typical" MOTU setup with a Lucid AD9624 for input. Nothin fancy, but very usable.

Hope that helps (a little)[/quote]

Hey Rodger,

Is this sort of like tape machine over-bias? Essentially, I turn the trimmer down until the 2nd order harmonic bottoms out, then starts rising?
 
there is a document linked in this thread that details what resistor values to use in the VCA section based on what THAT chip you used. Mine what the 2180L and the chart was correct.
 
[quote author="josh"]there is a document linked in this thread that details what resistor values to use in the VCA section based on what THAT chip you used. Mine what the 2180L and the chart was correct.[/quote]

looks like i have to use scrapbook and manually go to every page and put it in....
 
[quote author="Sender"][quote author="josh"]there is a document linked in this thread that details what resistor values to use in the VCA section based on what THAT chip you used. Mine what the 2180L and the chart was correct.[/quote]

looks like i have to use scrapbook and manually go to every page and put it in....[/quote]

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=358&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=2180+series

Is this the info you're looking for? :roll:
 
[quote author="trancedental"][quote author="Sender"][quote author="josh"]there is a document linked in this thread that details what resistor values to use in the VCA section based on what THAT chip you used. Mine what the 2180L and the chart was correct.[/quote]

looks like i have to use scrapbook and manually go to every page and put it in....[/quote]

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=358&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=2180+series

Is this the info you're looing for? :roll:[/quote]

Looking back, I misunderstood his post.
I thought someone posted fixed values for the trimmer pot that worked well on the 2181. I have all the other modifactions complete for the 2181, just don't want to have to place an order with Mouser :mad:
 
I misunderstood the question, but this is the document I was referring to. The VCA sheet by Matt Fisher
http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml
 
[quote author="josh"]I misunderstood the question, but this is the document I was referring to. The VCA sheet by Matt Fisher
http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml[/quote]

Ya, I made all the changes on that. Now to power it on and test it........




I'm scared :oops:
 
My gssl does not compress :cry:
The audio go's throw, the make up gain works, even the power on led works but it does not compress. I've checked over and over if everything was right but I dont find anything wrong. Any hint on what to check ?
 

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