GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[dinesh]

1. Check sidechain path for shorts
2. Check voltage at pin 1 of TL072.
3. Check your sidechain VCA by putting this in audio chain, If it sound distorted then you need a new VCA.

 

[kryckmeister]

Still distortion when I turn the bypass on. I checked every resistor and the values are correct. Still I have the problems with the meter when brining the threshold all the way to the bottom, the meter starts hitting the top values, also with greater impact when ratio is increased...

Any other ideas of where to look for errors?

 

[trancedental]

I've got a IEC fused chassis plug and was wondering if the the 4th lug connection (the other 3 are L N E as usual) which does not have any markings needs to be connected to anything. This would be at the other end of the fuse, the opposite side is already marked "L".

http://www.rapidonline.com/producti...ctors&tier4=Fused+chassis+plug&moduleno=63584

There's a PDF file on the above link with details.

Cheers

 

[Harpo]

[quote author="trancedental"]I've got a IEC fused chassis plug and was wondering if the the 4th lug connection (the other 3 are L N E as usual) which does not have any markings needs to be connected to anything. This would be at the other end of the fuse, the opposite side is already marked "L".

http://www.rapidonline.com/producti...ctors&tier4=Fused+chassis+plug&moduleno=63584

There's a PDF file on the above link with details.

Cheers[/quote]
from your above link the 4th lug is circuitside L (after the fuse). Ohm it with fuse taken out to be shure that you have your transformer/switch connected after the fuse (unmarked lug). In most circuits you won't need the L lug within your box. Only thing comes to mind is for a "fuse blown" indicator between the 4th lug an L. Maybe I'm missing something.
(edited)

 

[guavatone]

[quote author="guavatone"]Can you roatate the Ratio switch on the PCB so that A=B and B=C etc... while retaining the knobs marks to line up with the FP numbers from Gyraf or Parusha? [/quote]

Bump....Jakob?

 

[trancedental]

[quote author="Harpo"][/quote]
from your above link the 4th lug is circuitside L (after the fuse). Ohm it with fuse taken out to be shure that you have your transformer/switch connected after the fuse (unmarked lug). In most circuits you won't need the L lug within your box. Only thing comes to mind is for a "fuse blown" indicator between the 4th lug an L. Maybe I'm missing something.
(edited)[/quote]

So the way I'm reading this in the GSSL schematic the fuse & switch come after the IEC & before the transformer (so the extrs lug is not used unless needed for a blown fuse indicator or anything similar?)

Regarding the power on/off toggle switch, as I've got one one of Purusha's cases so I had to buy one of the ultra miniature toggle switches to fit the cut hole on the case.

The toggle is rated 3A 125Vac, 1A 250Vac., is this sufficent? It's the only one that size that I could find!


Thanks for answering my silly questions!


:guinness: :thumb:

 

[Harpo]

[quote author="trancedental"]So the way I'm reading this in the GSSL schematic the fuse & switch come after the IEC & before the transformer (so the extrs lug is not used unless needed for a blown fuse indicator or anything similar?)

Regarding the power on/off toggle switch, as I've got one one of Purusha's cases so I had to buy one of the ultra miniature toggle switches to fit the cut hole on the case.

The toggle is rated 3A 125Vac, 1A 250Vac., is this sufficent? It's the only one that size that I could find!


Thanks for answering my silly questions!


:guinness: :thumb:[/quote]
Although there are higher rated toggles available (fi this http://www.reichelt.de/?SID=281TT@jH8AAAIAAEwGKLI28a39ce3c5e3a38cdc7ec306c7a127aa;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=C21;GROUPID=3275;ARTICLE=13160;START=16;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16) this toggle rating seems ok. Expect only a few mA ac-current. Make shure to heatshrink the solder lugs in case a mains wire breaks off the toggle to prevent it touching the case. Could be a show stopper.

 

[safe as milk]

hi
just finishing off a pair of ssl's,
when i strap one across my mix buss and send it a 1kHz tone,
i can't pan the tone totally left or right,
there is always a bit of signal still present in the other channel(12db lower)
is this normal behaviour? (both of my units are doing this)

thankyou

 

[Harpo]

[quote author="guavatone"][quote author="guavatone"]Can you roatate the Ratio switch on the PCB so that A=B and B=C etc... while retaining the knobs marks to line up with the FP numbers from Gyraf or Parusha? [/quote]

Bump....Jakob?[/quote]
Not Jakob, but the rotaries are symetrical, so they will fit no matter which pin you set to A,B,C,D. Ohm it out to assure yourself. Most knobs for D-shafts for usual come with a separate to order marker-cap to match your front panel. Clamping-knobs may fit as well.

 

[safe as milk]

a gentle bump for my stereo width question.

thanks

 

[guavatone]

[quote author="Harpo"][quote author="guavatone"][quote author="guavatone"]Can you roatate the Ratio switch on the PCB so that A=B and B=C etc... while retaining the knobs marks to line up with the FP numbers from Gyraf or Parusha? [/quote]

Bump....Jakob?[/quote]
Not Jakob, but the rotaries are symetrical, so they will fit no matter which pin you set to A,B,C,D. Ohm it out to assure yourself. Most knobs for D-shafts for usual come with a separate to order marker-cap to match your front panel. Clamping-knobs may fit as well.[/quote]


Thanks Harpo. Will they act the same funtionally? I am using clamping-knobs.... so I was curious if they will still line up to the correct ratios -2-4-10 still. They wont skip a ratio right? I just don't want to end up with it backwards like 10-4-2 or a different order......it should be cool right?

I just need to turn the round part down for it to work with the clamps I have.

 

[Harpo]

[quote author="guavatone"]Will they act the same funtionally? I am using clamping-knobs.... so I was curious if they will still line up to the correct ratios -2-4-10 still. They wont skip a ratio right? I just don't want to end up with it backwards like 10-4-2 or a different order......it should be cool right?

I just need to turn the round part down for it to work with the clamps I have.[/quote]
Bingo. :thumb: The ratio switch only uses 1 center pin and 3 outer pins of the 4x3 lorlin switch. The label on the pcb calls it "B", connecting to eighter B1, B2 or B3 for the ratio 1:2-4-10. In case you solder the switch 90 deg.clockwise, the lorlin pin "A" will connect the pcb traces to A1, A2 or A3. The switching effect is the same, but your D-shaft has moved 90 deg.clockwise. With a clamping-knob this doesn't matter at all. Turn the shaft full ccw, put on the knob and match the knob marker to your 1:2 frontpanel setting. Each further step rotates the knob by 30 deg. The labeling of Purusha's cases match these steps.
If you don't have a 4x3 but a 2x6 or 1x12 lorlin, take care a center pin connects to the upper left pbc hole "B" and set the end-stop of the lorlin to position 3.
If your switch is another brand, look at the pcb-traces and ohm it out. :wink:

 

[guavatone]

Thanks. It sound like the switch can have group "A" replaced with goup "B",group "B" replaced with goup "C" and so on and act exactly the same using a clamping knob.

I can't see what you mean about the 1x12 SW but I have a 4x3 Lorlin so as long as the paragraph above seems good I think I am fine.

- I always like to "Ohm it out" before sitting down with a soldering iron. Especially when working on something with Purusha's case. :grin:

 

[Holger]

Can anybody help me with a little problem?
I am using the expensive sifam ppm14 meter. The "fall back" time is very slow. When muting the input signal from some 5 dB gain reduction it takes some 4-5 seconds to return to 0. When bypassing the compressor, the meter immediately returns to 0. Any hints?

 

[dinesh]

Hi Holger,

Check your Rlease setting.

Regards
Dinesh

 

[Holger]

Dinesh, you're right, it's as designed. I needed a second device to compare; my meter has the correct behavior.

 

[Silvas]

I´m almost finished with my GSSL, it is compressing beautifully and i used THAT2181lb, which i trimmed "clean", minimal distortion altough i cannot hear the distortion even when trimmed all the way up or down. The sound when compressing is perfect, but...

I´m getting distortion with the unit in bypass

The distortion gets worse when you lower the threshold, but its worse in the middle of the pot´s travel...also, it gets worse if i increase the ratio. Haven´t found much info on this problem. I know, i could use a relay controlled bypass (probably i´ll do it) but i´m curious about what is causing this distortion

Attack or release doesn´t affect this bypass distortion

Anyone?

Thanks!!!

 

[gyraf]

Maybe re-check wireing around the bypass switch for correctness and shorts?

 

[Silvas]

Everything is double-checked...nothing wrong but it is so strange that this distortion appears only in bypass...

 

[gyraf]

Bypass does only two things (look at the schematic!):

1: disconnects sidechain signal before timing circuit

2: disconnects makeup-gain potentiometer

That should give you the info needed for error-tracing

Jakob E.