GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[karl j]

Okay, I did some more checking and I think it's working okay. I calibrated the meter (as best as the Behr-meter can be), and put some better pots in the side chain. It sounds good, and it's very quiet. Not a lot of self noise. I think I have the Th med and Th loud dialed in correctly, but I should probably check again.

Also, still need to hook up the meter light.

But I can play with it for now!

 

[karl j]

[quote author="FreelY"]lol No, but not far: in my bedroom :green:

other little question:
where is the best place for take the + power for the led of my meter. Here after the rectifier, before the regulators?

I have one led of 3.5V 30mA. So I have to use one 400ohms resistor true? (15-3.5)÷0.030=383.33[/quote]

Okay, I was going to light my Behri meter LED from the same spot. I been doing some reading on the Behri meter LED and read it can use 12volts. But what is the current draw? Don't I need to know the current draw to figure out the proper dropping resistor?

You'd think with all the info on lighting meters in this thread I'd be able to figure this one out!

Also, since I fried the LED in my other meter, how do you (if it's possible) get inside those things to replace the LED?

 

[vertiges]

[quote author="karl j"]
Okay, I was going to light my Behri meter LED from the same spot. I been doing some reading on the Behri meter LED and read it can use 12volts. But what is the current draw? Don't I need to know the current draw to figure out the proper dropping resistor?

You'd think with all the info on lighting meters in this thread I'd be able to figure this one out!

Also, since I fried the LED in my other meter, how do you (if it's possible) get inside those things to replace the LED?[/quote]

Karl,

1) If it's a Behri meter from Ptownkid : 25mA, 2.5-3V

2) It's not very easy to open the meter without destroying it. You have to pull pretty hard. If you could understand how it is assembled before trying, it would be easier. If you can wait until Monday, I can post a pic of the one I opened (and broken :green

eD)))

 

[louder]

Hi
so the Behri led is 2,5/3v,not 12v?.
think i`m gonna feed it right from the power tranny secundaries.
pedro

 

[vertiges]

[quote author="louder"]Hi
so the Behri led is 2,5/3v,not 12v?.
think i`m gonna feed it right from the power tranny secundaries.
pedro[/quote]


don't forget to put a resistor in series !!! :wink:

eD

 

[karl j]

That would be really cool if you could post the pic of the meter. It doesn't look like it'll be easy.

As for the meter, from reading other people's solutions to powering the Behringer LED, I figured I could get by with some vari-resistors I had. I have a 10k and 5k in series. It's totally ghetto, but works really well having a dimmer(s) on the light. Now that I know what the actual specs are for the meter LED I can re-do it so it's not so cheezy looking.

Thanks again for the info, I'm really close to having this thing completed.

 

[vertiges]

karl,

I'll post the pic Monday ! :thumb:

eD)))

 

[karl j]

Okay so I did the math to figure the meter LED resistor. I got 820 ohm.

(23.5-3)/.025 = 820

I probably have a good 6 Kohm in front of it now, and it's pretty bright. But, I guess I can at least ditch the 10k pot and only use the 5k.

 

[karl j]

I'll take some pics of my GSSL to post.

 

[louder]

Hi
fired up gssl today,and no smoke,which is fine.
all voltages okay.
now:no sound.
the meter does not move,all sw and pots do nothing.
i think i did not understand the bypass sw connections.
there`s a link in the control panel that i did not use,is that okay?
i read the posts,but ......
best regards
pedro

 

[karl j]

Pedro,
If you are referring to the link on the control PCB that is next to the meter connections, the answer is YES! You must use that link!

 

[louder]

Hi Karl
the link i`m talking about it`s a small one where two wires from the bp sw connect.
best regards
pedro

 

[vertiges]

[quote author="louder"]Hi
fired up gssl today,and no smoke,which is fine.
all voltages okay.
now:no sound.
the meter does not move,all sw and pots do nothing.
i think i did not understand the bypass sw connections.
there`s a link in the control panel that i did not use,is that okay?
i read the posts,but ......
best regards
pedro[/quote]

Hey louder,

On the control PCB there are two points between 'A' + 'A2' joined by a line. This is the optional makeup gain-bypass. If you install a jumper, you will have constant makeup. If you wire it with a switch, you will have the makeup working only when the compressor is "in".

The points COM - linked with OFF disconnect the sidechain signal before the timing circuit. (linked with ON reconnect the sidechain signal - Compressor IN)

In résumé, these two bypass options does two things :

a)disconnection of the sidechain signal
b)disconnection of the makeup gain fonction.

So, you should have audio anyway...
You should also have audio even without the control board.

Triple check everything...

Which VCAs did you use ?

You could have a look on this thread and follow the instructions given bhy Chrissugar : http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?t...start=15&sid=2e36343a3e3e362ad46fd34f945f19cc

eD)))

 

[vertiges]

As promised, karl, here are the pics of the inside of the B-Ringer !!!

Cheers,

eD)))

 

[louder]

Hi Ed
stupid me.
what i mean is this:
the unit passes audio and clean(no noise).the strange thing is that all the pots and sw don`t do nothing.that`s why i said i wired the bp sw wrong.
sorry for the confusion.
i used 2180 vca(pre trimmed).i stuffed all the components except the trimmers.
best regards
pedro

 

[RedNoise]

Hi Vertiges!!
Very interesting pics of the un-mounted vu meter , thx!!
Some special advice to dismantle it carefully???(the idea is changing the white led with a blue one) :wink:

 

[vertiges]

RedNoise,

It's closed pretty tight !!! :shock: That's the problem actually...
You have to pay very attention to the needle when you open it.
I've just made a few opening tests with the one I broke and the problem is it's very difficult to dismantle it in a non-brutal way. :evil:

You have to open it from the top with a thin flat screwdriver.
Keep the bottom part closed as long as possible and when you see it starts to open, remove "the cap" away very very slowly without touching the needling mecanism.

But why the &?&#"% you haven't bought the white version ???? :wink: :green:

Good luck !!! :wink:

eD)))

 

[vertiges]

[quote author="louder"]Hi Ed
stupid me.
what i mean is this:
the unit passes audio and clean(no noise).the strange thing is that all the pots and sw don`t do nothing.that`s why i said i wired the bp sw wrong.
sorry for the confusion.
i used 2180 vca(pre trimmed).i stuffed all the components except the trimmers.
best regards
pedro[/quote]

No problem... :green:

Is it fixed now ?

eD

 

[karl j]

Vertiges, Thanks for the pics of the meter. I see what you mean, glad I bought two. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to use a small pipe cutter to cut it a bit further back and then just glue/tape it back together (and would it open it enough to give access to the meter).

I guess this is no different than anything else you buy these days, disposable!

As promised, I'll post some pics today of my GSSL.

 

[louder]

Hi Ed
rewired the bp sw and now it`s working okay.
the strange thing i noticed,is that the ratio,attack,release and thr have very litlle(if any) effect on the sound.seems to me that it`s not compressing;at least the i thought.
i used 2180 vca`s,and the only component i did not use was the trimmer.
best regards
pedro