i take the power on pcb control in series with the led of power on off, 3.5v +35.v with the resistor 1k on pcb place.
pedroplanet i had this problem one day , i was caused by bad stuf, two points stuffed is affected then that should not be.
Youcan removes the link + 15v and test before it if you have + 15v, if it's case you have a bad conpenent or bad stuff after the link+15v.
Just finished! changed the 7815 and I forgot a jumper on the Power supply
Just reporting...
I used Apha rotary switches, so I could not solder them on the PCB, so....:
1. the attack on the fastest position is not working, like as if it was bypassed, I sodered it as close as should be, but I'll double check...
2. I couldn't find how to make this 4x3 alpha rotary into 4x2 for bypass, It's messy: 1st position = bypass makeup not work, 2nd bypass makeup works, 3rd comp in, make up not working.
Can someone give a guide on how to use a simpler bypass switch like a DPDT??
What's the point of that extra 22uF electrolytic on the -12V line on top right corner above the CV VCA? it's not marked on the schematic (that I know of).
I don't see a similar extra coupling cap for +12V rail, so why only on -12V?
I'm not sure if this is the right threat but I'm very new to this forum and DIY in general so forgive me
I'm ordering the components for the SSL compressor and I just realised the PCB version I have is rev7 instead of 9.
Are there any differences?
Should I order 2181 or 2150 VCAs?
I'm ordering the components based on gyraff's 'components list' webpage and a component list I foun by Gregory W. Stein, which is a bit older. Is there anything I should consider?
thanks in advance and sorry if the question is a bit 'silly'
hi warpie
if you know a shop where we could buy 2150 give us the information, so you can put what's you prefer, 2150 dbx or 202 dbx are older and rare, 2180 is newer pre trimmed, and 2181 non trmmed, ich one of them must have a differents configartion.
there is a thread of this
thanks for the info. I'll have a look on these threats.
Just to confirm though: All the values shown on PCB rev7 are the same as on rev 9? (apart from the mods for 218x of course).
And if so, what's the difference on those 2 versions?
P.S I haven't found any 2150 around, I wasn't even looking for 2150 to be honest.
i don'tknow realy what's a difference between those,the difference are one time for the transformer one time for the stuff and the lasts are all good, i think gustav and audiokitchen sell the rev 7
just wacth what you need to change for your vca choice
Just wondering about installing trimmers to fine tune both my GSSL's meters so need some advice.
One has a 1mA meter so I'm assuming that I should install a 2K trimmer & the other has a 100uA meter with the 300R installed so should I install a 5K trimmer (can't find 4.7K : on that one?
Also I'm assuming that I cut off the middle lug on the trimmer is that right?
Bypass and make up working perfect, as well as all atack speeds (both problems were because the alpha rotary are a bit different from lorlins) By the way, as its verry hard to get toroid trafos in Brazil, I'm using a regular 500ma 2x15v. no noise no problems (if somebody wants to save some money... its working!)
I'm using 2180s with the 5k1 resistor as Matt and THAT says (http://diy.fischerworks.com/diy_info.shtml)
It sounds great, but trying to repeat the demonstration video on turbo board, the right channel compress more than the left channel.
Tryied to replace the 3k9 to 5k1 on turbo board and it got even worse... so I put the 3k9 back on turbo board.
Fired it up and it looks to be compressing great! I'm having a problem though. My ratio switch doesn't appear to be doing much if anything.
Here's the scenario: i have Gustav SSL board with no mods (yet hehe) and i'm using that 2180b vca's. I replaced the resistors as suggested on matt's page. So i fire it up and put one channel on a drum bus (just bunch testing at the moment so only wired up one channel). All the other knobs appear to be doing their jobs correctly. But i can't see or hear any difference in different ratio settings. I monitored the levels in logic and they appear to be the same for different ratio settings and they also sound pretty much the same to my ears.
You get the picture. Anyone have any ideas about what could be wrong?! I'm stumped.
As far as I know the quality of the capacitors play important role in the quality of the audio. I made my order and I got twenty five 22uF elec capacitors from mouser (product: 75-517D226M025JA6AE3 Vishay/Sprague). I was looking for some panasonic but couldn't find.
Do you think it worth trying to locate other capacitors and make a new ordder??
i posted this in the newbie section before. jakob says this might be the better place
hi
since this is the newbie section here i will ask some questions.
1. i build the ssl clone without the sidechain pcb. (maybe i add this in my second try after i get the first one to work). so what does that change?
2. is there a scematic that schows exactly how to connect the different Pcb's, power supply and knobs to the Pcb???
3. i use the 2180's so heard that you can leave out some parts. i found different threads but i don't found one that gives a 100% answer
4. a lot of threads say that u have to use different resistors if you use the behringer meter which resistors are these.
5. on my pcb (audiokitchen) is one 100k resitor that is a 127k resitor on different schematics i found here in that forum.
i'm sure that i will have more questions but maybe some one can help me with these.
this far i'm so happy that this forum exists because i really like building audio gear. you guys do a great job here.
thanks in advance
Eric
Ok, I think I will have to make a new order and get some Nichicon 0.22uF instead (a order with just capacitors...such a waste of money but sh*t happens )
anyway, this forum is very helpful. Thank you all guys!
P.S The last 3 days I've been reading this huge threat to find all the info I need before I start soldering. No to be funny, but I wouldn't say I like the idea of having a threat as long as this, as 50-60% of the issues have been 'recycling' over and over. I'm aware of the Meta info but I think if this threat was split into subcategories or something, it would have been much easier to go through (and with much less content). Of course, I'm not asking from anybody to spend his valuable time doing this.... just wanted to tell my opinion as beginner ... Hope I didn't cause any offence to anybody...
Vishay/Sprague aren't a bad brand. Nothing to say they won't work as well as the Panasonics. Of course the problem is the they have varying degrees of quality on their products. Admittedly I havent done a side by side comparison in this circuit.
Still it seems extreme to go buying a whole new set of caps. Use the ones you have.
I get your point but it is always that DIY craziness that makes you want the 'best' components, isn't it?
However I might stick with the Vishay/Sprague's caps if it doesn't any audible difference..
Can't honestly comment on any possible audio difference between the two types of caps: but I'm willing to bet it wouldn't be too large a difference.
And I totally get what you mean about getting the "best" parts. It makes me take ages to finish projects that otherwise could be finished quickly just because I have to save for the "better" part. Still it's all for a good cause.