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I noticed my relais doesn't click anymore when I turn the compressor of, like it use to do when turning it of in "in" mode. Relais broke? is doesn't work neither when I short the relais pot a and pot b, nor when I short the com to on....

please help?
 
hi artosaudio,
possibly a power supply issue to the relay?  i have to assume that you are using barclaycon's SSC/Thrust/Bypass PCB in your unit as you mention a relay and use his terminology for POT A/B. 

i can't really say as I have not used his board yet, but are you getting voltages to the from the switch to the relay and if so what is the voltage?  is the relay not responding when voltage is applied to the relay (in that case you probably have a dead relay).

the relay listed in barclaycon's BOM is a 24V high sensitivity type with a 2800 coil resistance.  did you use this type of relay?  i've used these types with just 18V applied and they work well (but this is the minimum voltage to activate the relay according to the omron relay spec sheet), but i have not tried it at 15V (if that is what the switch is applying to the relay to turn it over).

i'm just guessing all of this.  as i said, i've never used his SSC board yet, but i plan to.
regards,
grant
 
artosaudio said:
I'm getting a nice clean 15.32 on both sides, so a faulty relay?

both sides where?   ???

if you have voltage on the relay, then you are in bypass mode (i assume again), thus no compression which is exactly what you stated.

if you do not hear the 'click' when voltage is applied or removed from the relay then your relay might be bad.  you could try to remove the relay and test it by applying voltage and seeing if the switch on the relay makes the change-over to different pins.

as for bypassing by jumping, you could.  look at the schematic.
-grant
 
yes i know, I allready assumed I was constanlty in bypass, hence the led not burning (led tested). However all the Com, on, off pot a pot b wires are correct,checked them with a meter. also my compressor in switch is ok. Jumpers to bypass relay does not seem to work. I used jumpers to short com to on and pot a to pot b, which is if I understand correctly, the thing the relay does...  why is this unit not wanting to go out of bypass, is driving me insane...!
 
o.k. try to remove the bypass connections from the switch PCB to the SSC PCB.
then jumper.  or remove the relay and test out of circuit.
either way you'll need to do the work to narrow down the possibilities. 
report back what you find.
happy hunting.
 
Ok, it appeared that I had two faulty diodes on my sc board right before the relay... that makes sense, I've replaced them and no everything seems to be working, don't why they were not working though maybe I accidently shorted something while soldering leds and so feeding current to the back, don't know, I'm very glad I got the unit working again (although it has cost me 2 days...)

One weird thing still, since al this hassle it seems like my ratio values has been turned around, how about that :) ???

Thanx for your help
 
Hi there

I have a question about the behringer 'vintage style' meters.

Are you able to take that black plastic cover off and still have it not fall apart? I want to mount it flush with the front panel.
 
thwop said:
Hi there

I have a question about the behringer 'vintage style' meters.

Are you able to take that black plastic cover off and still have it not fall apart? I want to mount it flush with the front panel.

Try mounting from the inside of the case.

On another note looking at the data sheets for the OP-AMPS and VCA chips they all run at an average power rating of +-18V.  So my question is why do we run this board at two different lower voltages?  Are there advantages in doing so?

-Casey
 
Hello and HELP ??!!  ??? I am a complete noob at this from Denmark and I just finished building my first gssl. My problem is that despite the fact that audio seems to run fine through it, when I start turning the threshold some very ugly distortion occurs. When the threshold is turned completely to the left, audio passes fine and with no noise. I have checked that the little jumper on the control board next to the meter, is soldered on. It should also be mentioned that when I turn up the ratio, the distortion also increases. I can´t really tell what happens when I adjust attack or release ; maybe nothing at all (which is quite concerning as well). I have build the turbo mod as well but I haven't connected that yet , not to confuse things.

I would also like express my gratitude to Mr Erland and the likes, which have made it possible for a complete ignorant when it comes to electronics like me, to build a very sofisticated and well sounding peace of hardware.

  :) Allin
 
Just an addendum  ??? I have used the THAT 2181LB and I have read a few places that some modification needs to be done in connection with that - removing some resistors ?
Could this be the reason for this insane distortion ?
 
Hi guys, does someone can help me?
I have connected a 12 volt regulator to the + of the diode bridge, and the - to the ground of the board, i use it for powered some LEDs and the meter light. But that bring me a hum noise!!! (120 Hz)
Where can i connect the regulator to be correct?
 
allinbang said:
Hello and HELP ??!!  ??? I am a complete noob at this from Denmark and I just finished building my first gssl. My problem is that despite the fact that audio seems to run fine through it, when I start turning the threshold some very ugly distortion occurs. When the threshold is turned completely to the left, audio passes fine and with no noise. I have checked that the little jumper on the control board next to the meter, is soldered on. It should also be mentioned that when I turn up the ratio, the distortion also increases. I can´t really tell what happens when I adjust attack or release ; maybe nothing at all (which is quite concerning as well). I have build the turbo mod as well but I haven't connected that yet , not to confuse things.

Please check that you put in the small wire link on the front-panel board - just below where the meter is connected. If this link is not in place, symptoms will be like you mention.

btw: there is a "local" Danish GroupDIY board - located at http://www.groupdiy.dk/

Jakob E.
 
Thank you very much Jacob  :) are you referring to the little jumper underneath the 820Ω resistor ? if so I have soldered that but the problem persists. But as I mentioned before there is no distortion when there is no threshold, when I turn the threshold pot, gradually the distortion occurs. Sorry for asking this question probably for the 1000000th time but I have been plowing through the forums and I can't find an answer (so far).

Greetings


Allin
 
signalflow said:
On another note looking at the data sheets for the OP-AMPS and VCA chips they all run at an average power rating of +-18V.  So my question is why do we run this board at two different lower voltages?  Are there advantages in doing so?

I'm also curious about this. Why the two voltages? All the chips on the board can do -+15.
 
Hi there,

I've been having trouble finding the 22uF 25v low ESR capacitors in Australia.

RS components have some that are 'low impeadence', I was wondering if that is the same as low ESR?  ???

I really don't wan't to make another international order, it's getting expensive.  :mad:

UPDATE: I found these at Farnell, Will they do?
 

Manufacturer: PANASONIC

Order Code: 8766762

Manufacturer Part No: ECA1EAK220X

    * CAPACITOR, 22UF, 25V
    * Application:Audio
    * Capacitance:22µF
    * Tolerance, Capacitance:± 20%
    * Series:AK
    * Voltage, Rating:25V dc
    * Capacitor Dielectric Type:Aluminium Electrolytic
    * Case Style:Radial
    * Length / Height, External:7mm
    * Diameter, Body:5mm
    * Pitch, Lead:2mm
    * Temperature, Operating Range:-40°C to +85°C
    * Current, Ripple AC:55mA
    * Temp, Op. Max:85°C
    * Temp, Op. Min:-40°C
    * Terminal Type:Radial Leaded
    * Time, Operating Life:1000h
    * Tolerance, +:20%
    * Tolerance, -:20%
    * Voltage Rating, DC:25V


Darren
 
signalflow said:
On another note looking at the data sheets for the OP-AMPS and VCA chips they all run at an average power rating of +-18V.  So my question is why do we run this board at two different lower voltages?  Are there advantages in doing so?

-Casey

bump, anybody?

-Casey
 

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