GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[dissonantstring]

hi mikerisha,
you are doing well with your research.
looks like your diagram is pretty spot on if you are in 110/120V land.  where are you located (you should put it in your profile so people have a reference). 
the diagram solderspongebob posted is for 220/240V (if you had not noticed), but the diagram you posted has the correct primary connection for 110/120V mains.

Primaries hook-up note:
looks correct, just the switch not shown.  if you're switching the live, then run the BLK/VIOLET (tied together) to the switch and a wire back to the LIVE tab on the inlet.  The RED/YLW is correct (tied together and soldered to the NEUTRAL tab).  EARTH tab on inlet to chassis as you drew correctly. 

Secondaries:
looks correct as well.  the RED/BRN tied are your 0V center tap (CT).  the BLUE and the GREEN secondary wires are carrying your AC (around 15VAC each).
the only thing i see which may be a problem is that jakob intended the off-board transformer connections to be hooked-up at the top left corner of your drawing.  AC-0V-AC connection point.  component placement of the bridge rectifier changes with either on or off-board transformer.
also, your CT needs to be connected to the PCB (your drawing doesn't show this).  the CT is your 0V.  you're almost there...very, very close.  if not you'll have the same issues as casio and you will not be able to reference DCV correctly.
regards,
grant

 

[dissonantstring]

hi nikonet,
if your unit is compressing o.k., then it's probably not the VCA.
if the distortion is harsh clipping, then you could double check all your connections from the main PCB to the control switch PCB and make sure that all are making good contact.  i had a similar problem with my make-up gain control distorting at full output and also when i tried heavy compression.  not sure if your problem is the same, but won't hurt to check.
regards,
grant

 

[mikerisha]

hi mikerisha,
you are doing well with your research.
looks like your diagram is pretty spot on if you are in 110/120V land.  where are you located (you should put it in your profile so people have a reference). 
the diagram solderspongebob posted is for 220/240V (if you had not noticed), but the diagram you posted has the correct primary connection for 110/120V mains.

Primaries hook-up note:
looks correct, just the switch not shown.  if you're switching the live, then run the BLK/VIOLET (tied together) to the switch and a wire back to the LIVE tab on the inlet.  The RED/YLW is correct (tied together and soldered to the NEUTRAL tab).  EARTH tab on inlet to chassis as you drew correctly. 

Secondaries:
looks correct as well.  the RED/BRN tied are your 0V center tap (CT).  the BLUE and the GREEN secondary wires are carrying your AC (around 15VAC each).
the only thing i see which may be a problem is that jakob intended the off-board transformer connections to be hooked-up at the top left corner of your drawing.  AC-0V-AC connection point.  component placement of the bridge rectifier changes with either on or off-board transformer.
also, your CT needs to be connected to the PCB (your drawing doesn't show this).  the CT is your 0V.  you're almost there...very, very close.  if not you'll have the same issues as casio and you will not be able to reference DCV correctly.
regards,
grant

Hey Grant.. Thanks again for the help.. (and spongebob too!) 

Im in california..so im 110/120.. I noticed that in the awesome diagram that bob did for me..

but after reading your notes.. how does this look?

only thing is have a lorilin switch (off of gregs parts list), for my on/off switch, and dont know which numbers to solder the switch to yet.. Ill just have to do some research to find that out..

 

[nikonet]

thanks dissonantstring,

i see that when i touch wire between pcb, it change the noise.

which type of wire needed?

thanks........

 

[dissonantstring]

@mikerisha,
looks good.  just remember you only need one bridge rectifer (the one near the PSU secondaries connection). 
as for the lorlin switch, please make sure that it is rated at the current to handle mains.  not sure which one greg spec'd.  just check the datasheet and make sure that the switch can handle it.  make sure you also have a fuse between the live switch and the AC inlet.  do not power up with out a fuse to save on potential parts being destroyed.

@nikonet,
how does the noise change? 
any wire should do.  just make sure that they are making good contact.  check to see if you have any cold solder joints and have continuity on each of the 10 positions connecting the main PCB to the control switch PCB.

regards,
grant

 

[mokkinger]

hi guys,

can anybody tell me if I could use ceramic capacitors on the turbo board (C3, C4, both 100n) instead of Film Caps (wima)? even if I used Wimas on the main PCB? or would I hear the difference? I don´t have anymore Wima 100n here, but have two ceramic ones left... but I don´t want to riun the sound of the unit?

thanks for help,
mark

 

[dissonantstring]

hi mark,
i believe you are talking about bypass caps on the TL074 (to GND) correct?
if so then ceramic caps will do fine.  i don't think you'll notice any change in sound by using them.  C0G/NP0 caps have better tempco stability if you want to use those types, but i don't think they will make too much of a difference in this particular application.  (someone correct me if i'm completely off my rocker!)
remember keef's notes about the alternate hole spacing for those caps as stated in the turbo mod install manual.
regards,
grant

 

[mokkinger]

yes, those are the two... ok, i will give it a try! thanks!

cheers,
mark

 

[artosaudio]

ok here is the thing... First of thanx a million times to this board for giving me the confidence to build my own ssl compressor. It works, sounds extremely well and used allready a couple of times with succes ( alongside a neve portico and a Manley Elop for instance).

However one time my laptop soundcard was giving troubles and I offcourse thought my diy ssl was broken... so I started to do some metering/measuring (what is it in english?) and found out my +15 rails was giving -15 and vice versa. I was shocked, however I found out my ssl was fine and perfectly working again, how is this possible, anyone got an idea? Am I not suppose to use it anymore and fix it first cause it works like charm,

please some advice, before I frie my nice working first DIY project!

 

[tweedclassic]

hello all.
i finished or thought i finished my GSSL w/turbo mod. it worked like it should have. passes signal compressed signal heck it even sounded good. 
Problem:
i am getting 0.287 volts DC on pin 2 of the input XLR's.
is this normal?
what do you typically do before you start plugging your DIY gear into your recording setup?
check for voltages on input and output on the piece of gear you just finished?

just trying not to blow the few things i have up.

Cheers
R.

 

[MartyMart]

However one time my laptop soundcard was giving troubles and I offcourse thought my diy ssl was broken... so I started to do some metering/measuring (what is it in english?) and found out my +15 rails was giving -15 and vice versa. I was shocked, however I found out my ssl was fine and perfectly working again, how is this possible, anyone got an idea? Am I not suppose to use it anymore and fix it first cause it works like charm,

please some advice, before I frie my nice working first DIY project!

Either you have your DMM leads swopped around or you soldered your 7915 and 7815 regs in the wrong holes !!

Double check all that, perhaps no real damage is done and you can rectify ( pun! ) your mistake

MM>

 

[emx]

Sorry if this has been covered, couldn't find it with several searches.  I'm just wondering what the voltages on the gssl should be with all chips removed?  I'm getting less on the positive side.  I checked voltages on the unit with all connections to the rest of the board removed from the power section and got 15v  and 14.73v on the other side and now with everything connected one side is only showing about 11v or so.  Is this something normal, maybe voltage from the other side going through the trim pots?

 

[ribazigi]

Hi guys

i am finishing my first clone, now i have all connect like say in the ''books''

but i dont have l light on power led...i install the turbo board like say in Expart audio pdf, but on the control board i don´t  connect pin 0,+,- (12v), did i have to connect this anyway (because i connect 0,+,- to turbo board).

i hope you understand my English

tanks

 

[mokkinger]

Hi,

its not really clear what your problem is now. do you have power on the board but no light? then chck the orientation of the LED - of you don´t have power on the board then check your PSu circuit for faults... did you check the rails of your Main Board for the correct voltages?
And try to build up the ssl without the turbo board first, so it works and sounds as it should. after that link in the turbo board, so you can find the error if there is one.
use you multimeter to check the 0/-/+ orientation, it has to be as stated in the expat audio manual... otherwise it won´t work...

hth,
mark

 

[ribazigi]

hi

yes i have the 12 and 15 voltage ok, my question is , did i have to connect the ''0'' ''+'' and ''-'' of the main board to the control board?

i think i must...

By ribazigi at 2009-05-10

tanks Mark 

 

[mokkinger]

yu just have to connect the control board to the main board via the 10 pin connector +FEGD-0ABC and you should be fine. the connection you posted does IMHO not exist, and doesn´t make sense - you power the turbo board from the main PCB, as well as the control board - but there is no such connection between turbo board and control board.

what happens if you power up the main PCB and test the Comp without the turbo board? does it work ok?

hth
mark

 

[ribazigi]

OK Mark

now i understand, i gonna check gssl alone and after whit turbo board.

i will report.

tanks again...gonna solder...

 

[emx]

Just wondering, what are some signs of dc regulators being faulty?  Do they typically put out full voltage until a load is present and then crap out or will they usually be dead from the get-go? 

I've basically got a GSSL board with a positive regulator that puts out 14.7 volts when fully disconnected from any load, I.E. either jumpers removed from the power supply or with all chips and the trim pots removed from the board and once I start adding these things in it either starts putting out lesser voltages (11.17 with both trim pots on)  or + or - half volts or so when any of the opamps are put in regardless of weather the trim pots are on the board.  As this regulator only gives out 14.7 volts without load and it's supposed to do 15 it's a little suspect anyway.  I'm probably going to have to order out for a new regulator but before I do I was wondering what the consensus is on this type of thing.

 

[gyraf]

compare input- and output voltages on the regulators. There may be a problem with the transformer or it's hook-up?

Jakob E.

 

[emx]

Everything looks normal before the regs.  + and - 19 volts on each side of transformer.  + and - 25 volts after the rectifier and before the regs.