GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[peat]

Thanks for your consistent help regularjohn

I was a little worried theyd be too big.

I couldnt decide between the Nichicons and the Panasonics, what makes you say they are the way to go?

thanks again

 

[Chrome Heart]

I agree with the choice of the FC caps or if you can get the values, FM. I think they have a more open sound. I recently recapped a Harrison MR4 36 ch. with FM caps. The difference between an old strip/ recapped channel, was startling. Really great.

 

[regularjohn]

Thanks for your consistent help regularjohn
I was a little worried theyd be too big.
I couldnt decide between the Nichicons and the Panasonics, what makes you say they are the way to go?
thanks again

No problem!


Well, for one thing the panasonics cost less!  Panasonic FM's actually have the lowest esr rating between the FM, FC, and nichicon HE.  The only thing is that the FM's are not available in as many capacitance values as the FC's or HE's.  So I usually get what I can with the FM's and "keep it in the family" with the FC's...sounds silly, I know! 
But I've built gssl's with fm/fc caps and with nichicon he caps, and to be honest, they're on the same level in terms of performance.  I just get the panasonics now because they cost less.  I also recapped my entire console with panasonic FM's, and like Chrome Heart said, the difference was startling!  But that would have been the case with any high quality cap.
You could debate whether this cap sounds more open or whatever, but there's so many variables in a gssl (metal or carbon resistors; polypro, polyester, or metal film caps; electrolytic caps; how good the regulators do their job; which VCA's you use; etc) that you could go crazy trying to find the tiny subtle difference that one component will make.  Bottom line is if you use good quality parts, like Wima's and low esr electro's, then you're in good shape (and you'll actually be using better components than real SSL gear has).

 

[Chrome Heart]

Thanks for your consistent help regularjohn
I was a little worried theyd be too big.
I couldnt decide between the Nichicons and the Panasonics, what makes you say they are the way to go?
thanks again

No problem!


Well, for one thing the panasonics cost less!  Panasonic FM's actually have the lowest esr rating between the FM, FC, and nichicon HE.  The only thing is that the FM's are not available in as many capacitance values as the FC's or HE's.  So I usually get what I can with the FM's and "keep it in the family" with the FC's...sounds silly, I know! 
But I've built gssl's with fm/fc caps and with nichicon he caps, and to be honest, they're on the same level in terms of performance.  I just get the panasonics now because they cost less.  I also recapped my entire console with panasonic FM's, and like Chrome Heart said, the difference was startling!  But that would have been the case with any high quality cap.
You could debate whether this cap sounds more open or whatever, but there's so many variables in a gssl (metal or carbon resistors; polypro, polyester, or metal film caps; electrolytic caps; how good the regulators do their job; which VCA's you use; etc) that you could go crazy trying to find the tiny subtle difference that one component will make.  Bottom line is if you use good quality parts, like Wima's and low esr electro's, then you're in good shape (and you'll actually be using better components than real SSL gear has).

I agree with regularjohn and his assesment of electrolytics in the gssl circuit. There are many variables to consider. My opinion on the FM series was based solely on my experience with the Harrison. The existing caps in the Harrison were 18 years old and just about on the fence for replacement. The old caps were HSF Panasonics and spec wise, are similar to the FC. He's also right about the availability of all values. Ive built three GSSL comps and have also used a mix of FC and FM. I guess Im silly too! I have no complaints about my units. They all sound great.

 

[Sickhouse]

Hi Guys.

I've searched this forum and learned quite a bit, but could not find the answer to my question below.  Please excuse me if this was answered before and I missed it somehow.  I'm still learning, and I just want to be sure I do the next step properly.

I am a little confused about the mains hookup/power transformer.  Since this is the dangerous part, I thought it would be best to ask my first question now.  The first link is the transformer I have and the second is the hookup chart they sent me.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=amveco+62063
http://www.amveco.com/Miniature_Low_Profile_Transformers_2.htm

My guess so far is that the iec wires to the primary, which would be connect red and yellow to hot, black and violet to neutral, and ground goes to chassis.  For secondary, I would run it split (+15/-15),  connect brown and red to 0v, green and blue would be my +/- 15 correct?  Also, I am wiring the transformer to the pcb as external, but the external 3 pin hookup does not specify the pinouts on the pcb or schems.  I'm guessing that the middle is 0v.  How can I figure out the + & - on the pcb?

Thank you so very much for the help.  I'm having a blast so far.

 

[phishman13]

So I hope I haven't overlooked this, but I've tried searching for a bunch of different things with no results.

What edgewise meter is being used in the following thread?

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=17039.msg197819#msg197819

It says Modutec later in the post.

It can't be this one can it?

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ME-DMA-001virtualkey54100000virtualkey541-ME-DMA-001

The catalog says 2" and my case (which is exactly the same as the one in that post) has an opening about 1.4" wide.

I need to find that meter or make a new front panel for a different one!

Thanks for any info!

 

[Chrome Heart]

So I hope I haven't overlooked this, but I've tried searching for a bunch of different things with no results.

What edgewise meter is being used in the following thread?

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=17039.msg197819#msg197819

It says Modutec later in the post.

It can't be this one can it?

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ME-DMA-001virtualkey54100000virtualkey541-ME-DMA-001

The catalog says 2" and my case (which is exactly the same as the one in that post) has an opening about 1.4" wide.

I need to find that meter or make a new front panel for a different one!

Thanks for any info!

\

Just get one of these http://primeinstruments.com/products/panel_meters/model60_specs.htm Use a 1K meter resistor for 20db scale. And... it fits like a charm, even with the Par-Metal case.

 

[Chrome Heart]

Hi Guys.

I've searched this forum and learned quite a bit, but could not find the answer to my question below.  Please excuse me if this was answered before and I missed it somehow.  I'm still learning, and I just want to be sure I do the next step properly.

I am a little confused about the mains hookup/power transformer.  Since this is the dangerous part, I thought it would be best to ask my first question now.  The first link is the transformer I have and the second is the hookup chart they sent me.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=amveco+62063
http://www.amveco.com/Miniature_Low_Profile_Transformers_2.htm

My guess so far is that the iec wires to the primary, which would be connect red and yellow to hot, black and violet to neutral, and ground goes to chassis.  For secondary, I would run it split (+15/-15),  connect brown and red to 0v, green and blue would be my +/- 15 correct?  Also, I am wiring the transformer to the pcb as external, but the external 3 pin hookup does not specify the pinouts on the pcb or schems.  I'm guessing that the middle is 0v.  How can I figure out the + & - on the pcb?

Thank you so very much for the help.  I'm having a blast so far.

The primaries are right. The secondaries are also right. As long as 0V is on the middle pin, the other two wires can go to either point, it doesnt matter. So, green or blue on the secondaries can go to either outside pin.

 

[pkarr]

Hi everybody, I'm building my 1st GSSL comp so I'm doing my components list for the moment and I need your help for tell me if the components I choosen are good or not.

1-the resistors i take the Xicon on Greg's list
2- the Capacitors I take AVX SR for the Ceramic, WiMA for Polyester, Panasonic NHG for the 1000uf electrolytic, Panasonic FC for the 100uf and 22uf Electrolytic and AVX TAP for the Tantalums.
3- for the VCA i take THAT 2180LA, OPA604 and OPA2604, TL072 ST, TL074 ST, Fairchild Regulators.
4-Power toroidal i take that: http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1419529

I hope U could confirm or help me to choose the best components. Thank you very much.

ps: sorry for the mistakes in english, I'm french.

 

[phishman13]

Just get one of these http://primeinstruments.com/products/panel_meters/model60_specs.htm Use a 1K meter resistor for 20db scale. And... it fits like a charm, even with the Par-Metal case.

That one is 1.8 or 1.9" wide, but the opening on the purusha case that I have and is shown in that picture I linked to is more like 1.4 to 1.6".  I'd like to try and find one that will fit with no filing or further modification.  Anyone with one of purusha's cases find a meter to fit?


EDIT:  nevermind.  I was directed to this one: 

http://export.farnell.com/multicomp/mc34h-0-100/meter-edge-indicating-100ua/dp/143509?Ntt=143509

It will fit purushas oxford gssl case.

 

[Leffe111]

Hi everybody.
I´m just in order to hook up my 2 gssl:s and I wonder: the first info i got was to simply cut the 4th pin on the 2 vca:s and just leave the resistors if using the that2180.
now some of you are saying/ and have tried the mods on http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml.
Now what is the way to go? to only cut 4th pin? to leave 4th pin and do the mod? or both?
best regards
Leffe

 

[Jazzboms]

Hi
Just started my first DIY project, a ssl clone, and have put together all the parts and wires, but the control panel dont work, no switches, no led. It makes nice clean sound, but only in bypass mode.
So.......... where to start?
The mainboard behaves the same with or without the control PCB connected.

I have to say I really enjoyed making this thing so far, and hoping to "learn by doing(and reading)" ;D
Thanks for helping

Espen

 

[Chrome Heart]

Hi
Just started my first DIY project, a ssl clone, and have put together all the parts and wires, but the control panel dont work, no switches, no led. It makes nice clean sound, but only in bypass mode.
So.......... where to start?
The mainboard behaves the same with or without the control PCB connected.

I have to say I really enjoyed making this thing so far, and hoping to "learn by doing(and reading)" ;D
Thanks for helping

Espen

I would suggest that you look very closely at the pads for solder bridges. This is an easy board for that to happen and I have found from my own builds its generally the problem. Also look at componant orientation and check for proper voltages at the IC's.

 

[regularjohn]

Just started my first DIY project, a ssl clone, and have put together all the parts and wires, but the control panel dont work, no switches, no led. It makes nice clean sound, but only in bypass mode.
So.......... where to start?
The mainboard behaves the same with or without the control PCB connected

The fact that you're LED doesn't light could be one of two things...either your LED is in backwards or you don't have +12 making it to your control pcb.  Check the voltages and continuity on the control pcb.  
1.Threshold pot:
-The CCW side should read -12VDC.  The wiper should have continuity to connection "F".  The pcb side of the 47K connected to the CW side of the pot should have +12VDC
2.make up gain pot:
-CW side should have continuity with ground. CCW side should have +12VDC. The wiper should have continuity with the pole on the bypass switch that makes continuity with connection "E" when compression is engaged.  So when not in bypass mode, the wiper of the make up gain pot should have continuity with connection "E".
3. When not in bypass mode, connection "C" should have continuity with the pole of the release switch.

Did you put the small wire jumper in on the control pcb?  That's one I've forgotten before.

Be sure you wired the bypass switch correctly.  If the leads are going to the wrong poles on the switch, it can still pass audio when in bypass mode, but won't work in comp mode.

 

[Jazzboms]

Thanks for the repies.
Yes I connected the small wire jumper on the control pcb.
Another beginner question. I measure from the +15V point on the main pcb, and out to the different points on the control pcb, yes???
Thanks

 

[Harpo]

Another beginner question. I measure from the +15V point on the main pcb, and out to the different points on the control pcb, yes???

Your reference voltage is 0V. Connect the probably black wire between your meters Com jack and this reference voltage on pcb. Probe voltages on pcb with probably red wire connected to your meters V jack. Depending on what you want to measure, set your meter for reading DC or AC voltages. In your case at first set for DC voltages to check if your supply is working correctly.

 

[Jazzboms]

Yes, my power supply seems to be ok. 0V.
I think that the best thing is to find someone local who can help we with measuring and error seeking.
Thanks for helping.

 

[Chrome Heart]

Yes, my power supply seems to be ok. 0V.
I think that the best thing is to find someone local who can help we with measuring and error seeking.
Thanks for helping.

You can do it! DIY!

 

[Leffe111]

Hi everybody.
I´m just in order to hook up my 2 gssl:s and I wonder: the first info i got was to simply cut the 4th pin on the 2 vca:s and just leave the resistors if using the that2180.
now some of you are saying/ and have tried the mods on http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml.
Now what is the way to go? to only cut 4th pin? to leave 4th pin and do the mod? or both?
best regards
Leffe

 

[Chrome Heart]

You dont need to cut the pin.