GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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ytsestef said:
I agree in using non-violent means to get there...
Leave the pin if it does not attack you.  ;) Do the mods, and you save your self from some soldering and some parts.
I built mine around THAT2180AL08-U's on my "project finished page" you can see exactly what I did:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=35352.msg433433#msg433433

Nice work yt. How did you mount that B-ringer meter without the four screws?
 
Chrome Heart said:
ytsestef said:
I agree in using non-violent means to get there...
Leave the pin if it does not attack you.  ;) Do the mods, and you save your self from some soldering and some parts.
I built mine around THAT2180AL08-U's on my "project finished page" you can see exactly what I did:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=35352.msg433433#msg433433

Nice work yt. How did you mount that B-ringer meter without the four screws?

I used two screws!!
 
Chrome Heart said:
ytsestef said:
Chrome Heart said:
ytsestef said:
I agree in using non-violent means to get there...
Leave the pin if it does not attack you.  ;) Do the mods, and you save your self from some soldering and some parts.
I built mine around THAT2180AL08-U's on my "project finished page" you can see exactly what I did:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=35352.msg433433#msg433433

Nice work yt. How did you mount that B-ringer meter without the four screws?

I used two screws!!

I cant see them on the faceplate.

Really?? They're quite obvious!! See attachment
 

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ytsestef said:
Chrome Heart said:
ytsestef said:
I agree in using non-violent means to get there...
Leave the pin if it does not attack you.  ;) Do the mods, and you save your self from some soldering and some parts.
I built mine around THAT2180AL08-U's on my "project finished page" you can see exactly what I did:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=35352.msg433433#msg433433

Nice work yt. How did you mount that B-ringer meter without the four screws?

I used two screws!!

Yes. I didnt scroll down to the next pic. DOH!
 
Hi again guys.
Another question: How do i hook up the in/output? All balanced? Grounding input to chassi? Will use stereo phono jacks.
//Leffe
 
Here´s a picture of how i hooked up. Same for output and input. Red(+) to tip, white(-) to ring, shield to sleeve.
 

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Anybody happen to know the drill dimensions (or at least diameter) of the GSSL meter from diypartssupply? I'm planning on using one for mine, but i haven't gotten one yet and i'm doing the drilling today...

Thanks!
 
http://mikerisha.com/meter/SSL_guage.ai.zip

I uploaded a meter layout for the behringer meters.  its an illustrator file so you can change stuff on it if you want.

i updated my meters with a LED light inside, and used a paint pen to make the needle it self WHITE, so I could see it on the black background.

i also have a blog i made while building my first compressor.. just finished my 2nd and 3rd, should be testing them tonight.

http://www.mikerisha.com/gssl
 
I have just ordered my boards from Audio Kitchen, I am from the UK.
My question is, does gregs BOM (which looks very concise by the way- great work) have all the correct parts for the boards I've ordered from audio kitchen, and do i need to change anything for the ssl to work on UK mains?
Sorry if this is a really basic question.
Thanks
 
Autophase said:
I have just ordered my boards from Audio Kitchen, I am from the UK.
My question is, does gregs BOM (which looks very concise by the way- great work) have all the correct parts for the boards I've ordered from audio kitchen, and do i need to change anything for the ssl to work on UK mains?
Sorry if this is a really basic question.
Thanks

I'm not familiar with Greg's BOM, but just make sure your transformer has a primary rated for your local ac mains voltage.
Also, if you're using THAT2181 VCA's, you'll want to do these mods:
http://homepage.mac.com/marten.thielges/gssl/calibration.html

The reason being is that the circuit was designed for DBX202, or THAT2150 VCA's.  The 2181 is the newer generation of the 2150 and incorporates some of the previously needed external components into it's internal circuitry, so some resistance values need to be changed for the 2181.
 
regularjohn said:
The fact that you're LED doesn't light could be one of two things...either your LED is in backwards or you don't have +12 making it to your control pcb.  Check the voltages and continuity on the control pcb.  
1.Threshold pot:
-The CCW side should read -12VDC.  The wiper should have continuity to connection "F".  The pcb side of the 47K connected to the CW side of the pot should have +12VDC
2.make up gain pot:
-CW side should have continuity with ground. CCW side should have +12VDC. The wiper should have continuity with the pole on the bypass switch that makes continuity with connection "E" when compression is engaged.  So when not in bypass mode, the wiper of the make up gain pot should have continuity with connection "E".
3. When not in bypass mode, connection "C" should have continuity with the pole of the release switch.

Did you put the small wire jumper in on the control pcb?  That's one I've forgotten before.

Be sure you wired the bypass switch correctly.  If the leads are going to the wrong poles on the switch, it can still pass audio when in bypass mode, but won't work in comp mode.



I'm having a similar problem...

I can pass audio, but the threshold, attack and release just dont seem to do anything... The compressor does not compress.  Bypass and makup gain seem to work just fine.

1. Thresh CCW to ground reads -12
2. Thresh wiper has continuity to F.
3. Thresh CW to ground side has +12
4. My LED works properly.
5. Makeup gain active when not in bypass.
6. All jumpers on pcb exist.

The only test listed above that didn't work was continuity of C to pole of release when not in bypass mode.

Any ideas on where to start troublshooting?  Today was the first day I lost my patience during this entire process!

Very much thanks in advance.
 
Sickhouse said:
The only test listed above that didn't work was continuity of C to pole of release when not in bypass mode.
Continuity of 'C' to pole of Attack when not in bypass mode.
Double check your bypass switch wiring.
Double check your bypass switch end-stop washer was set to pos.2 AFTER turning this switch full ccw with end-stop washer out.
 
Harpo said:
Sickhouse said:
The only test listed above that didn't work was continuity of C to pole of release when not in bypass mode.
Continuity of 'C' to pole of Attack when not in bypass mode.
Double check your bypass switch wiring.
Double check your bypass switch end-stop washer was set to pos.2 AFTER turning this switch full ccw with end-stop washer out.

Harpo,
Thanks for the reply.  Double checked above and its all good on all 3 counts, still no luck. 
PS- Standard GSSL, no mods, using 2180, tried both with and without pin 4.  Lorlin rotaries.
 
'F' is varying between -12V and +0.37V with 47k connected between +12V and ccw side of threshold-pot ? (without this 47k from a previous schematic, 'F' is varying between -12V and +12V) ?
What value is the resistor/trimmer connecting to your meter and what meter scale (1mA/100uA) do you use ?
Temporary lift one side of this resistor or trimmer to exclude a too heavy load for the meter driving opamp, maybe caused by 'G' mistakenly connected to meter-backlight pin.
You already swapped an obviously working audio-VCA with maybe broken sidechain-VCA to exclude this fault ?
Else check parts values and orientation, watch out for shorts.
Good luck
 
regularjohn said:
Autophase said:
I have just ordered my boards from Audio Kitchen, I am from the UK.
My question is, does gregs BOM (which looks very concise by the way- great work) have all the correct parts for the boards I've ordered from audio kitchen, and do i need to change anything for the ssl to work on UK mains?
Sorry if this is a really basic question.
Thanks

I'm not familiar with Greg's BOM, but just make sure your transformer has a primary rated for your local ac mains voltage.
Also, if you're using THAT2181 VCA's, you'll want to do these mods:
http://homepage.mac.com/marten.thielges/gssl/calibration.html

The reason being is that the circuit was designed for DBX202, or THAT2150 VCA's.  The 2181 is the newer generation of the 2150 and incorporates some of the previously needed external components into it's internal circuitry, so some resistance values need to be changed for the 2181.


Thanks,
I'm thinking I'll go for the pre trimmed version (2180)
Just looking around for transformers I found this http://www.airlinktransformers.com/transformer/0015215-open-style-toroidal-transformer-with-leads.asp
will this be right for uk mains?

Thanks
 
Autophase said:
Thanks,
I'm thinking I'll go for the pre trimmed version (2180)
Just looking around for transformers I found this http://www.airlinktransformers.com/transformer/0015215-open-style-toroidal-transformer-with-leads.asp
will this be right for uk mains?

Thanks

The 2180 is just a pretrimmed version of the 2181.  you'll still need to make some resistor changes.
see here: http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml
 
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