GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[regularjohn]

i think ive ordered something wrong on the rotary switches.
This is what i have
2 of : 3 pole 4 way solder lugs, converted to 2 way (for on off & bypass)
1 of : 2 pole 6 way, converted to 5 way (for release)
1 of : 2 pole 6 way (for attack)

now I have a 2 pole6 way left over, but i see on the control board the ratio as more holes at the centre of the switc, it seems only the centre hole is connected.
Just t clarify,my remaining 2x6 is useless?
What do i need for the ratio?

You can actually just use a 2x6 for all of them.  Just make sure the poles and positions line up on the pcb. 

That tiny center hole on the ratio is not connected to any hardware.  Look closer, only one of the four poles is connected.  You can just use a 2x6 and convert it for 3 positions (just make sure one of the poles goes into the solder pad that is the connected pole).  Or you can also use a 4x3 and leave it at 3 positions.

 

[regularjohn]

yep, I soldered this jumper on the control PCB. All my Voltages are good. I Tested all the AOP, TL, VCA.....all voltages are good. I have the +15 and -15, +12 and -12. I tested all my solders, everything seem to be ok, I changed the TL074. The problem is I don't hear difference in the sound when I do a short attack and release or a long attack and Release. It's exactly the same sound. I change the ratio and it doesn't work too. I try different levels on the threshold, still the same sound. I hear a difference in the volume sound of course when I turn the threshold and Make up, but no difference in the Compression with Ratio, attack and release. I tried with my DBX 266XL and I hear the difference when I try different Attack, ratio and Release. Not with my GSSL. I changed the THAT 2180 in the sidechain part on the main board. I tested the 10 connectors between Main and COntrol Board, everything is well linked. That's Crazy. Thanks

pics would help.  also, comparing a 266xl to a gssl is like comparing apples and orange.  The gssl is incredibly transparent, a 266xl is not.  Maybe you're just not used to such a transparent comp?  How are you testing the compression?  With audio or test tones?  The best way to test is with test tones and a level meter after the compressor, so you can "see" what's actually happening.  The gssl is so transparent you won't hear compression ruin the audio like with a cheap dbx comp.
Also, changing ratios on the gssl does not affect the sound the way it does on a 266xl, because the gssl modifies the threshold position when you change the ratio to keep the output level constant.  So by increasing ratio, you're not increasing gain reduction like you are on a 266xl.  Gain reduction should stay the same from ratio to ratio with the gssl making it harder to hear differences between ratios.
How did you test the 10 pin connectors?  Is there continuity between neighboring "letters" on the 10 pin connectors?  It sounds like you've got "A" or "B" shorted straight to "D".  Also, double check the wiring of your bypass switch.  Makes sure you've got the poles and positions correctly oriented.  miswiring the bypass switch can cause issues.
Also, is the metering working on your gssl?

 

[pkarr]

RegularJohn, THanks alot for ur answers. U are clarifying alot of things for me. For answer to ur 1st question, Yep i'm not used with Transparent comp. The only hardware comp i used it's the Dbx 266xl ;D. I test the compression with Audio. I play a drum kick or drum pattern from things I recorded in my Apple Logic. My soundcard is a RME fireface 800 at +4db in output. The soundcard output is connected on my Soundcraft spirit studio Mixer. The compressor is connected on the Master of the Mixer. I tested the 10pins connectors with a Multimeter digital. I tested that i didn't have bridge or linked solders on main and control board. Then I tested the A from control Board goes to A on Main board, like that for the 10pins. For the Bypass switch I wired it like on Rev9 from the PDF on Gyraf website "A and 2, C and 7-8". My Bypass switch is a 4x3 transformed in 2 positions. I'll check it out. Can U tell me if I should have this sound with mine? When the guy turn the Attack and release we hear a big difference. Thanks alot man. Cheers, ALexandre

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blqGW62Cl-0
http://www.nrgrecording.de/html/ssl_2.html  "there are 2 audio demos here".

 

[mac]

Hey all,
As I assemble parts for my GSSL build, i have decided to use some existing parts I have such as the 0.1uf Wimas (as i have seen on other threads used succesfully).

I also have been investigating the use of TL082 IC's in the GSSL instead of TL072's, because I have about 40 of them lying around.

From the data sheets, the only real difference appears to be a lower CMRR (TL072 75 - 100, and TL082 70 -70), and possibly slew rate difference as well.
Anybody out there knowledgeable about the substitution of this IC for the TL072?  Any thoughts on how the GSSL circuit would react with these substituted?


Cheers,
Mac.

 

[gyraf]

TL082 IC's in the GSSL instead of TL072's

Should be fine - the sidechain opamps are not that chritical..

Jakob E.

 

[pkarr]

Hi, I'd like to know If I should have Voltage on Solders switches. I have the + and - Voltage on the Threshold, I have the + on the Make up. I have a Voltage are 1 or 2 points of the Ratio but Nothing on All Attack, Release and Bypass Solders. I tried on the 10 pin connectors, I have 4 Voltage who are the same than Threshold, Make up. Is it normal I don't have Voltage on the others switches? Thanks for ur answers. Alexandre

 

[Autophase]

i think ive ordered something wrong on the rotary switches.
This is what i have
2 of : 3 pole 4 way solder lugs, converted to 2 way (for on off & bypass)
1 of : 2 pole 6 way, converted to 5 way (for release)
1 of : 2 pole 6 way (for attack)

now I have a 2 pole6 way left over, but i see on the control board the ratio as more holes at the centre of the switc, it seems only the centre hole is connected.
Just t clarify,my remaining 2x6 is useless?
What do i need for the ratio?

You can actually just use a 2x6 for all of them.  Just make sure the poles and positions line up on the pcb. 

That tiny center hole on the ratio is not connected to any hardware.   Look closer, only one of the four poles is connected.  You can just use a 2x6 and convert it for 3 positions (just make sure one of the poles goes into the solder pad that is the connected pole).  Or you can also use a 4x3 and leave it at 3 positions.

Cheers John,
Youre a legend, I checked the borad and one of the other holes next to the center hole are on the same track so thats great.

one thing I'm confued on.
do i need to make 2 of the rotary switches in to 2 position switches.
1 for the power on off and one for the bypass?
I'm not too bothered about my gssl looking original, as I'm going for totally different look with my case as well.

 

[regularjohn]

Hi, I'd like to know If I should have Voltage on Solders switches. I have the + and - Voltage on the Threshold, I have the + on the Make up. I have a Voltage are 1 or 2 points of the Ratio but Nothing on All Attack, Release and Bypass Solders. I tried on the 10 pin connectors, I have 4 Voltage who are the same than Threshold, Make up. Is it normal I don't have Voltage on the others switches? Thanks for ur answers. Alexandre

You should have +12V and 0V on the makeup gain.  The threshold should only have -12V because there should be a 47K between the +12V rail on the pcb and the pot.  The center lugs of these two pots will have varying voltages depnding on where they are set and it will change as you turn the knob.
I've never measured the voltage on the switches...there's maybe a volt or two in places, but definately not 12V on any of the rotary switches.

Cheers John,
Youre a legend, I checked the borad and one of the other holes next to the center hole are on the same track so thats great.

one thing I'm confued on.
do i need to make 2 of the rotary switches in to 2 position switches.
1 for the power on off and one for the bypass?
I'm not too bothered about my gssl looking original, as I'm going for totally different look with my case as well.

Yeah, the power and bypass need to be 2 position switches.  Although I usually just use toggles for those - an spst for power and a dpdt for bypass.  For the bypass 2x6, pole 1 will use position 1 and 2 and pole 2 will use position 7 and 8 if I remember correctly.  You can always check which position lugs connect to which pole with a continuity meter.

 

[pkarr]

Hi everybody, I did test today. So I think I discovered a part of the problem. It's surely on the control Board and maybe in the PSU part. I turned the compressor on, I did the Voltage on the main board and control board. All the voltage were good. The Ratio, Attack, Release didn't work on the sound, no changes. I didn't have Voltage on those 3 switches. I waited 1h15 and I had Voltage on the 3 switches. So I played a drum pattern via the compressor and I turned the switches. On the last position of the Attack I heard a changes, the sound was louder.... On the others positions, I didn't hear changes. They didn't work I think. The sound was a bit different when I turned the Ratio too. On the release it changed too but I had Big "Clicks or Bips" in the speakers when I turned the switch on the different position, It was a loud Click when I turned the different position of the Release. Then I had a Big Hum in the speakers. It was louder or less louder when I turned the Threshold and Make up. When I turned the Make up at max, i could hear little Clicks too on the make up.... The threshold sent signal on my mixer too when I turned it, I could see the Leds on my mixer move. I controlled all the Voltage on the main Board and Everything was the same than in 1st. ALl the Voltage were good on the main board, AOP, TL and VCA. What do u think about that? It's the 1st time I heard the sound change when I turned the switches but I couldn't use it because the Clicks in the speakers when I turn the Release and the Hum too.... Do u think my switches could be a problem too? I controlled solders with my Multi meter Digital, I don't bips like we can hear if i had bridge or linked solders. THe connections between Control and main board are good too. Do u think I could have problems with Capacitors?

Here u are the link of my switches, it's those on Greg's list.

http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CK2377_6.35X20.7MM_D-SHAFTvirtualkey12200000virtualkey10WA135
http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CK2375_6.35X17.5MM_D-SHAFTvirtualkey12200000virtualkey10WA177
http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CK2379_6.35X20.7MM_D-SHAFTvirtualkey12200000virtualkey10WA137

Thank you very much for your help. 

 

[regularjohn]

You shouldn't have any significant voltage on the switches.  The loud pops when you're turning the switches are likely the sign of a voltage short.  It should not be doing that. 
Use the schematic and retrace continuity through the circuit and make sure all your connections are correct, and that there's no lifted traces or solder bridges anywhere on the control board.
The problem isn't the psu if it's putting out correct voltages.  There's somethign wrong on the control board.  Those lorlin switches are some of the best you can buy.  TH eonyl capacitors on the control board are the tantalums.  Did you put them in in the correct way?

What voltages are you measuring on the switches?  And which 4 on the 10 pin have voltages and what are the voltages?  As much specific info as possible helps.  pictures help too.

 

[pkarr]

Hi John, I'll check out the control board solders. The voltages on the switches are very low, it's something like -0.06 to -1.83. It's around that. The voltages change when I turn the positions on the switches, but it's low Voltage. I have Voltage in the switches after 1h15 but not before. After 1h15, the switches start to work a bit, but not before. I have a Big Hum who comes after 1h15, it diminishes or increases when I turn the Threshold and Make up. I don't have that before 1h15. The Tantalums capacitors i have on the control board on those one:

http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TAP685K050GSBvirtualkey58110000virtualkey581-TAP685K050GSB
http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TAP474K050SCSvirtualkey58110000virtualkey581-TAP474K050SCS

As soon as I can, i do pics of the boards. I'll do test today and I'll tell u if I find things. Thanks alot for the help man.

 

[intellijel]

I have a completed gssl with super sidechain board: http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB#

I just got the expat Turbo pcb but I am confused on how to integrate this with my sidechain board. Do I really need to build a second sidechain board or is this particular sidechain board already a dual one?

If so are there instructions (with diagrams/photos) on how to integrate the turbo with this sc pcb?

 

[regularjohn]

I have a completed gssl with super sidechain board: http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB#

I just got the expat Turbo pcb but I am confused on how to integrate this with my sidechain board. Do I really need to build a second sidechain board or is this particular sidechain board already a dual one?

If so are there instructions (with diagrams/photos) on how to integrate the turbo with this sc pcb?

There are no stereo sidechain boards.  You'll need two of them.  Instructions on hooking up a turbo with super sidechain are at expat audio's store.

Hi John, I'll check out the control board solders. The voltages on the switches are very low, it's something like -0.06 to -1.83. It's around that. The voltages change when I turn the positions on the switches, but it's low Voltage. I have Voltage in the switches after 1h15 but not before. After 1h15, the switches start to work a bit, but not before. I have a Big Hum who comes after 1h15, it diminishes or increases when I turn the Threshold and Make up. I don't have that before 1h15. The Tantalums capacitors i have on the control board on those one:

http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TAP685K050GSBvirtualkey58110000virtualkey581-TAP685K050GSB
http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TAP474K050SCSvirtualkey58110000virtualkey581-TAP474K050SCS

As soon as I can, i do pics of the boards. I'll do test today and I'll tell u if I find things. Thanks alot for the help man.

Yeah, those voltages are ok.  That's just the signal running through there.  
When the bypass switch is "on", you should have continuity between the pole of the attack switch and "C" on the 10 pin.
You should also have continuity between the pole of the release switch and "D".
Also when the bypass switch is "on", you should have continuity between the middle lug of the make up gain pot and "E".

 

[Autophase]

another switch related question john.
i can see where the on/off switch solders on the lower right of the control board, where does the bypass switch solder to?

 

[radiance]

another switch related question john.
i can see where the on/off switch solders on the lower right of the control board, where does the bypass switch solder to?

On - off- com is all for the bypass switch
Have a look at the wiring pdf here...

http://gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.pdf

 

[Autophase]

another switch related question john.
i can see where the on/off switch solders on the lower right of the control board, where does the bypass switch solder to?

On - off- com is all for the bypass switch
Have a look at the wiring pdf here...

http://gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.pdf

Thanks man, looking at that its obvious!
Much appreciated.

 

[SWAN808]

elementary questions can someone help with?

Im fitting a power transformer in a GSSL. I purchased one of these http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=1419529

I want to double check the connecting protocol:

Primary - to the IEC.

Secondary - external power input in corner of PCB. 0V centre.

However:

On the toroid there is the following guide:

Pri:  blue-white
      violet-brown
Sec: black-red
      orange-grey

I understand that with 220V UK supply on the primary 2 colours need to need to be combined. Question is - which colours and to which on the IEC and on the board?

Second question:

Ground:

What has to be done here? 1 input XLR to ground and thats it? I have a filter power inlet - does this go also?

Finally...

Some of the soldering looks very tight - I didnt actually do the stuffing of the boards - should there be absolutely NO bridges on the board? Are there any measures I can take before powering up to ensure it doesnt instantly go up in smoke? Go round with a craft knife?

thanks in advance. hopefully I'll get a response and having going tomorrow!

 

[trancedental]

See attached diagram for transformer wiring configurations, Primary series wiring diagram is for UK 240VAC Secondary wiring is the split secondary +/- power supply diagram

You need to confirm the exact wiring above with the specifications & wire colours of your transformer.

 

[pkarr]

hi Swan, here u are the pdf that Block Sent me, I bought the same Transfo than u and I asked me the same question. Hope it will help you.

 

[SWAN808]

hi Swan, here u are the pdf that Block Sent me, I bought the same Transfo than u and I asked me the same question. Hope it will help you.

thanks to you both...

Only problem is the grey and brown look very similar (in Primary supposedly=Brown in Secondary=Grey). Basically the grey on the Secondary side looks brown like the other...but I assume because it is grouped with the 'secondary' set of wires out of the toroid - I guess it has to be right...just to confirm - the 2 groups of wires (Primary and Secondary) emerging do NOT interconnect - the link stays within the family Primary or Secondary as such...?