Harpo said:Your meter LED (sure its an LED and not a light bulb?) should not be supplied by the +12V or -12V rails.schrobbelbop said:... the voltage drops even more and my meter led dims..
Maybe reconnect your meter LED ( 0V -->|--1K2-- -15V ) or ( +15V -->|--1K2-- 0V ) for a blue LED with typical VF3.3V @10mA.
You already have double checked parts values and parts orientation?
Power down, disconnect the turbo board, temporary remove the sidechain VCA, TL074 and TL072 on main pcb, power up and check for correct +/-12V voltages, else replace the broken 78L12 or 79L12 regulator.
Power down and put the chips back in one by one. Power up and measure rail voltages again after each chip. If a rail now drops in voltage, the last chip you put back in is probably broken. Now reconnect the turbo board as described by Expat Audio.
regularjohn said:Your opamps and vca's are fine. something is wired wrong somewhere. recheck your wiring and check for solder bridges or incorrect component values.Jazzboms said:Hi
Got some problems with makeup and threshold on my new built gssl. The symptoms are weird. With no threshold, the makeup gain doesnt work until its at max, then it goes to max gain. From zero to max with nothing between. It passes clean audio with, as far as I can hear ,no hum or noise.
With max threshold, and min makeup, I got a lot of distortion, but the distortion decreases when i increases the makeup, but it doesnt make more gain. Again at max makeup, the gain sudden increases to max.(The distortion increases while turning the threshold) Also the distortion increases when higher ratio. So the conclusion is that instead of compression, it distorts.
With no threshold the unit passes audio nice.
I have checked for shorts, but I cant find any, and my soldiering looks ok. But obvious something is wrong. The op-amps and VCAs doesnt go hot except the TL074 feels a little more hot than the others. Have replaces my opamps and VCA.(Maybe all my extra opamps and vcas also are broken.....)
Havent done any measuring other than checked the main +/- 15/12. The + 15 is 14.77 and the -15 is -15.02.
The meter is not connected.
Thanks for reading!
Best
The 22uF cap next to the TL072 is in between the sidechain rail voltages 0V and -12V, so there obviously is something wrong with your +/-12V rails.Jazzboms said:Hi
Have checked around, and cant find any errors. One thing I have discovered, fooling around on the PCB, is when I removed the 22 cap near the TL072 my makeup did work as it should, but not the threshold. But this 22 cap is probably driving the TL074.
Do you think that my problem is in the sidechain section? Anybody knows where to start error seaking?
Thanks.
gyraf said:..please specify what you mean by SL911..??
Thanks!Harpo said:The 22uF cap next to the TL072 is in between the sidechain rail voltages 0V and -12V, so there obviously is something wrong with your +/-12V rails.Jazzboms said:Hi
Have checked around, and cant find any errors. One thing I have discovered, fooling around on the PCB, is when I removed the 22 cap near the TL072 my makeup did work as it should, but not the threshold. But this 22 cap is probably driving the TL074.
Do you think that my problem is in the sidechain section? Anybody knows where to start error seaking?
Thanks.
Temporary remove the sidechain VCA, TL072 and TL074. Check for correct voltages (TL072 socket pin4 should read -12V, pin8 should read +12V). All fine moving on, else replace the broken 78L12 or 79L12 regulator. Now with bypass switch turned off (compressor engaged) measure voltage at "E". This should vary between 0V and +12V when turning the makeup pot. All fine moving on, else replace the broken 50K lin pot or correct your bypass wiring at the switch. Next measure voltage at "F". This should vary between -12V and a little above 0V when turning the threshold pot, assuming you have the 47K between +12V and the ccw pots end soldered on. All fine moving on, else replace the broken 50K lin threshold pot. Next put your chips back in one by one, checking for correct +/-12V rail voltages after each step to weed out a faulty opamp or VCA (see two posts above).
Good luck.
schrobbelbop said:Harpo said:Your meter LED (sure its an LED and not a light bulb?) should not be supplied by the +12V or -12V rails.schrobbelbop said:... the voltage drops even more and my meter led dims..
Maybe reconnect your meter LED ( 0V -->|--1K2-- -15V ) or ( +15V -->|--1K2-- 0V ) for a blue LED with typical VF3.3V @10mA.
You already have double checked parts values and parts orientation?
Power down, disconnect the turbo board, temporary remove the sidechain VCA, TL074 and TL072 on main pcb, power up and check for correct +/-12V voltages, else replace the broken 78L12 or 79L12 regulator.
Power down and put the chips back in one by one. Power up and measure rail voltages again after each chip. If a rail now drops in voltage, the last chip you put back in is probably broken. Now reconnect the turbo board as described by Expat Audio.
Thanks for the tips harpo! gonna try it this morning. The meter is LED by behringer . connected on the control pcb indeed.
might be a stupid thing but the 0V line to the pcb is the same as earth (chassis)? my transformer has no 0V line so i connected 15/15V and 0 From ground. is that okay?
I'm measuring 12v at 7815 and 9 at 7915 with disconnected circuits. im getting confused!
schrobbelbop said:my transformer has no 0V line so i connected 15/15V and 0 From ground. is that okay?
I might misread your post, but you seem to have a mains transformer with only a single 15V secondary.schrobbelbop said:might be a stupid thing but the 0V line to the pcb is the same as earth (chassis)? my transformer has no 0V line so i connected 15/15V and 0 From ground. is that okay?
I'm measuring 12v at 7815 and 9 at 7915 with disconnected circuits. im getting confused!
The opamp might be running open loop, so check for bad solder at the 15K feedback resistor connection between NE5532 pin6/7. The (-)12V at pin1 is a follow up.pietro_moog said:i checked every pin of every IC and everything was fine, except there was 12v on pin 7 and pin 1 of the left 5532.
Harpo said:I might misread your post, but you seem to have a mains transformer with only a single 15V secondary.schrobbelbop said:might be a stupid thing but the 0V line to the pcb is the same as earth (chassis)? my transformer has no 0V line so i connected 15/15V and 0 From ground. is that okay?
I'm measuring 12v at 7815 and 9 at 7915 with disconnected circuits. im getting confused!
This build calls for either a center tapped 30V secondary transformer, sometimes listed as 15-0-15V, or a transformer with 15V dual secondary windings that can be connected to behave like the center tapped one.
Your chassis/shield is always connected to safety ground that don't need any connection to 0V. If it helps for a better sleep, you can join this 0V with your case/safety ground in exactly one spot, called star ground, so look twice when using metal/conducting pcb standoffs, ... to prevent ground loops.
Tie black and yellow secondary wires together (AFTER making sure, the hard to see isolation paint is scrapped off the transformers lead ends ) and take this junction to the center pin on the pcb transformer connection for your 0V. Red wire goes in one of the outer AC holes, orange wire in the remaining outer AC pcb connection, so all 3 holes on pcb are wired.schrobbelbop said:...so i connected 15/15V and 0 From ground...
edit: http://www.europe.origin.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0da0/0900766b80da0cc3.pdf
is my transformer I've now used Vsec/0v connection and ground for 0 on the pcb.
It is a dual secondary winding.
xqqxqq said:Solid State Logic 9000 series in the SL911 Channel Stripgyraf said:..please specify what you mean by SL911..??
ummmdan1 said:Hi Everyone,
Just a quick question, I saw someone ask a similar one a while back, but as a bit of a newbie I think I need a few more details!
I want to add a jewell type pilot light to my Gssl as the power on indicator, and have a 6.3v one similar to the kind you'd find on a fender amp.
where would be the best place in the circuit to connect this, and what resistors would I need to use (depending on where I connect it) if you see what I mean! I have a 25VA toroidal transformer.
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