GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
On another note, I cant seem to fing the problem on this comp. Ive check everything voltage wise and it seems to be right. The unit is not compressing and in bypass mode the meter pins.
Any ideas?
 
Well, the unit is not compressing. No audio passes in bypass and the VU pins in bypass. I get audio in comp mode but no functions work.
 
you checked the maybe broken from reverse bias 22uF at TL074 pin7 ?
you swapped the sidechain VCA with an audio VCA to exclude this part being broken ?
 
Harpo said:
you checked the maybe broken from reverse bias 22uF at TL074 pin7 ?
you swapped the sidechain VCA with an audio VCA to exclude this part being broken ?
Harpo said:
you checked the maybe broken from reverse bias 22uF at TL074 pin7 ?
you swapped the sidechain VCA with an audio VCA to exclude this part being broken ?

Yeah. I replaced the 22uf @ pin 7 with a new one. I also replaced the VCA's on the in and out. Ive built 4 of these so I have a bunch of parts around. Im not sure where else to look. I also replaced the diodes in the TL074 part of the circuit thinking maybe they popped at the same time as the OpAmp. No go.
 
a TL07x isn't that easy to kill. Opamp might have been latching to a rail voltage when running open loop because of an oxydated socket that didn't make contact to the chip. Reseating or pulling chips out of their socket and back in often helps enough to scrap this oxydation layer off contacts.
 
Harpo said:
a TL07x isn't that easy to kill. Opamp might have been latching to a rail voltage when running open loop because of an oxydated socket that didn't make contact to the chip. Reseating or pulling chips out of their socket and back in often helps enough to scrap this oxydation layer off contacts.
Thanks Harpo. I replaced all the chips because I had a bunch. No luck. So far, Ive all but rebuilt the dang thing.
 
Make sure that your bridge rectifier has the correct pinout (!!!)

99% of ROUND bridge rectifiers are correct when you orient the +pin correctly - but the square types can have any pinout (ac,ac,+,-) and WILL burnout if wrong

Jakob E.

wthrelfall said:
I cleaned up the flux and checked the suspected short, installed a new rectifier and switched on: exactly the same results as before - rectifier burned out.


Harpo said:
Looks like a  short between 7815 pins 1/2 that is the most likely cause of your failing parts.
 
Jakob, thanks for the reply.  Yes, I checked this already, but of course I'm going to check and double check again..

Last night I actually had a dream about the compressor working...  perhaps today we will solve it!



gyraf said:
Make sure that your bridge rectifier has the correct pinout (!!!)

99% of ROUND bridge rectifiers are correct when you orient the +pin correctly - but the square types can have any pinout (ac,ac,+,-) and WILL burnout if wrong

Jakob E.

wthrelfall said:
I cleaned up the flux and checked the suspected short, installed a new rectifier and switched on: exactly the same results as before - rectifier burned out.


Harpo said:
Looks like a  short between 7815 pins 1/2 that is the most likely cause of your failing parts.
 
You have a short somewhere in between the positive raw DC and 0V. There are only 3 parts in this area. The (maybe broken) 1000uF cap next to the rectifier, the (maybe broken) 7815 voltage regulator and the (maybe shorted) pcb trace linking these parts. Until you remove this short circuit, you will blow your rectifier again. Use a magnifying glas to spot a short between pcb traces, double check the regulator is a 7815 for real, not a 7915 or whatever else. Ohm it out for a higher ohm reading before soldering the next rectifier on pcb. A low/zero ohm reading will indicate, there is still a short.
 
checked without success ,
about possibility
to set the  gssl  attack and release controls as " fine " variable , like threshold and make up do ,
leaving the rotary switches and adding a potentiometer for fine regulation

there is some help  about ?
peace
r2d
 
thanks Harpo !

i checked about the first 100 pages and some research too by search function
... o my god this thread is the largest of all the other ...
some "direct link" about all gssl  "options-add on" posted in the first page of this thread
would be a nice great help ,

peace and diy !
r2d2

Harpo said:
r2d2 said:
checked without success
??? my last answer to this subject was two pages back in this thread. There are others as well.
 
Harpo, you are right - there was a short in chef's pcb, from the + to the ground just after the rectifier - a really tiny piece of copper (I took a photo in case others have this problem, it's about halfway between the rectifier and the capacitor).  So thankyou Harpo & Jakob for helping...
But!  I have correct voltages everywhere and I can pass signal when in bypass, but no sound when compressor is 'on'.. here we go again  :-[


Harpo said:
You have a short somewhere in between the positive raw DC and 0V. There are only 3 parts in this area. The (maybe broken) 1000uF cap next to the rectifier, the (maybe broken) 7815 voltage regulator and the (maybe shorted) pcb trace linking these parts. Until you remove this short circuit, you will blow your rectifier again. Use a magnifying glas to spot a short between pcb traces, double check the regulator is a 7815 for real, not a 7915 or whatever else. Ohm it out for a higher ohm reading before soldering the next rectifier on pcb. A low/zero ohm reading will indicate, there is still a short.
 

Attachments

  • gssl board short ciruit.jpg
    gssl board short ciruit.jpg
    894.4 KB
Back
Top