GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mushibu09 said:
I know how to deal with mains electric, it's just the wireing part eg to the board I knwo how to wire ther IEC and i do have a friend that is going to work on it with me! the build! same as one doing the panels, he's done a couple other thjings with mains him self! i already thought of the unsure part
Cool,as said I really didn't want to bother you ;)
Cheers,

Udo.
 
Hi all around!

I had the chance to test my GSSL last afternoon in the studio of a friend of mine (www.heyday-studio.de) against
a real SSL desk: a lot of fun  ;D

The shoot out result....
well the desk wins... but the GSSL with some EQ treatment* is soooo close...
Turbo-Mode is the man of the day!! It's so much closer to the desk.... and forget the Plugin....

I was so happy after that test, all the hours of trouble shooting have come to a worthy end...  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Thanks to all out there....


* ([email protected], 1.75kHz@2db, 200Hz@1db, [email protected])
 
i built my GSSL some time ago and it works & sounds fantastic.
I initially only built it because i loved the Waves SSL compressor it worked just right for the way I mixed (Mostly Techno), I also wanted to try my hand at DIY, so the GSSL was the logical choice.
My set up and the way I master has changed slightly and I like to use a compressor on a low ratio, with slow attack to bring up the overall level, so my question is how do I modify the 2:1 ratio of the GSSL to a lower setting perhaps 1.2:1 or 1.5:1?
Is it simply a case of changing the resistors on the control board? Could I even add a 3rd pot the intersects the lowest ratio setting and use that to adjust between say 1.1:1 - 2:1 ?
Any advice would be apprecated thanks.
 
about to build my 2nd gssl, looking to integrate an EAO switch for bypass using a relay but have no idea how to do so..  this is the switch (i have loads of them!)

http://uk.farnell.com/eao/31-423-036/switch-1no-1nc-mom/dp/925100

any help much appreciated.
cheers.
 
wthrelfall said:
about to build my 2nd gssl, looking to integrate an EAO switch for bypass using a relay but have no idea how to do so..  this is the switch (i have loads of them!)

http://uk.farnell.com/eao/31-423-036/switch-1no-1nc-mom/dp/925100

any help much appreciated.
cheers.
Hi Scott,

is the switch latching or momentary switching?And do you want a "true bypass" or the implementd one in circuit?

Udo. ;)
 
Hey Udo,
It's not Scott, it's William, we already know each other from the u87 clone thread  ;D

the switch I believe is momentary - here's the data sheet http://products.eao.com/media/technische_daten/BR31_General_technical_data.pdf

as for the 'true bypass', yes, if it's easy?


kante1603 said:
wthrelfall said:
about to build my 2nd gssl, looking to integrate an EAO switch for bypass using a relay but have no idea how to do so..  this is the switch (i have loads of them!)

http://uk.farnell.com/eao/31-423-036/switch-1no-1nc-mom/dp/925100

any help much appreciated.
cheers.
Hi Scott,

is the switch latching or momentary switching?And do you want a "true bypass" or the implementd one in circuit?

Udo. ;)
 
So I think I have this right but just wanted to triple check my wiring with you guys before I burn down the neighbourhood ;)

trans.jpg


So I'm going with

Input - IEC

Brown = Live
Blue = Neutral

Output (going to the 3 pins next to the Bridge Rectifier on the GSSL)

Pin1 - Black
Pin2 - Red and Orange
Pin3 - Yellow

Thanks!
 
wthrelfall said:
Hey Udo,
It's not Scott, it's William, we already know each other from the u87 clone thread  ;D
Pardon me William,have swapped names,too many people at the moment.

wthrelfall said:
the switch I believe is momentary - here's the data sheet http://products.eao.com/media/technische_daten/BR31_General_technical_data.pdf
Believing is not knowing,hahahaha.....
So if it is momentary you just have a switch function as long as you press the button.
Latching is when you press once for switch function and then press again to release it (on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-........).

wthrelfall said:
as for the 'true bypass', yes, if it's easy?
It depends.A good solution is using relays in both cases.You want 2 for each channel and a fallback diode supplied by a switched voltage.

With latching switch it´s easy to build even on veroboard.Will have a look for an easy drawing over the weekend,will have it somewhere-if that´s your case.

With momentary switches you want a piece a logic in between switch and relays.
There are some solutions arround here,do a search.
From expat audio (Rochey) I can recommend his differential switch board in combination with his controller and pic (there´s a good description in the manual).Controller is for 3 buttons,just connect what you want:

http://www.expataudio.com/expatshop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=10&ccSIDab479c27e66aa7ff6e70082511e3b6f4=6a5d7cb054bf846f64f9f5366206632b

From Igor there´s his bypass relay boards and his universal switch board controller,but it´s for 8 buttons and has several logic ways to choose of,therefore a bit overkill:

http://www.ij-audio.com/store/logicutility/

Easiest way is using a latching switch!

Hope to have helped,

Udo.

 
monobass said:
So I think I have this right but just wanted to triple check my wiring with you guys before I burn down the neighbourhood ;)
LOL  :eek:

monobass said:
So I'm going with
Input - IEC
Brown = Live
Blue = Neutral
Output (going to the 3 pins next to the Bridge Rectifier on the GSSL)
Pin1 - Black
Pin2 - Red and Orange
Pin3 - Yellow

That looks completely right - well just like I've wired it which works  ;)

Positive regards,
Dennis
 
monobass said:
Input - IEC

Brown = Live
Blue = Neutral

Output (going to the 3 pins next to the Bridge Rectifier on the GSSL)

Pin1 - Black
Pin2 - Red and Orange
Pin3 - Yellow

Thanks!
yes,seems right,don't forget the fuse and switch ;)

Udo.
 
Thanks Dennis and Udo, the IEC connector is fused, I just need to sort out a switch now. I haven't finished the main board yet so I'm still a few days away from lights on ;)
 
mushibu09 said:
Hello, Sorry if this is in the wrong place new here!

first time to make my own! got money want to do something I can say I worked on that i can use with my music. so this came up! and I have only ever build kits (mainly Velleman) WOulod have used the Tube one but I don't think I would be much use to tubes as they are so delicate.

I am goign to build the http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.htm but I am unsure ona  few things, wondered if i could get some help with this.

Main:
Power, I am going to be using this http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/vtx-146-030-115/transformer-30va-2x-15v/dp/1675052 is there anythign else i need to do for this? or is this right?
On the PCB there is a part saying "Mount these only if External Transformer, would I need to do this? with the Above?
the THAT 2181 chip what model? i have found this http://www.profusionplc.com/pro/gex/pcatdtl0?ipartno=THAT2181BL08-U is this right or do i need to use another one?
where to get the DC Regulators; 7815, 7915, 78L12, 79L121 DC?
the Rotory switches unsure what it means so i  found these need to knwo if i am have it right? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switches/0665196/ and http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switches/0665196/
and MOST OF ALL the Dimensions of the Front and BAck Panel of the 19" rack case, I will be using a 2U one, I would Like to knwo of the size of holes i have to cut ands the lay out.

Little importance;
what is a Bridge reflector, round type? and where would i get it? do I need a PSU PCB?
Can I use a LED Meter insted of the 1mA DC Full scale meter? ifi  can then would a mono level work fine?
the PCB for this I have found one that is this one but no reply yet, and one on here by Gustav. but not sure which of his is for this?

also if others are trouble but got bits that i don't pleae let me knwo where to get these bits,

I have the Resistors (Metal Film Resistor 0.25W 1% from BitsBox.co.uk) and Capacitors from same place apart from Tantalum ones as didn't have the higher V'

thank you.

sorry if it's in wrong place and to much to ask.

hello! well i didnt know what electrical shock was when i started this and thanks to a lot of help from form members in this forum im breathing. i say go for it!

anyways... regulators and bridge rectifier should be easy to find in mouser, digikey or anywhere even maplins in uk i reckn.
a bridge rectifier as i understand it, its a series of diodes, doing some magic to the voltage. (sorry this is as far as i get with technical things)

the power supply is included on the main pcb, however you can go to expat audio and get a CRC board that goes before the PSU. which reduces the hum of the unit by 10db more or less on the best cases.
 
monobass said:
Thanks Dennis and Udo, the IEC connector is fused, I just need to sort out a switch now. I haven't finished the main board yet so I'm still a few days away from lights on ;)

CRC board and GSSL PSU section reliably putting out 24v, 15v and 12v  ;D
 
So I have one of these switches. Is it suitable for the power switch?

Is it ok to use a single pole switch between the live connection of the IEC and the Transformer? Or do you need to switch both Live and Neutral with a DPDT?

EAO - 31-281.025 - SWITCH, 1NO/1NC, MAINTAINED

42255831.jpg

  • Contact Configuration: SPDT-1NO / 1NC
  •   Contact Voltage AC Nom: 250V
  •   Contact Voltage DC Nom: 250V
  •   Contact Current Max: 5A
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=3112159&CMP=i-bf9f-00001000
 
monobass said:
Is it ok to use a single pole switch between the live connection of the IEC and the Transformer? Or do you need to switch both Live and Neutral with a DPDT?

I think most would say that it's ok to use a single pole switch, however I want security before anything else and when you go to other places you are not sure if the sockets are wired correct.
I have seen self made electrical wiring where the basic DIY'er didn't know that there are standards for which wires connect to which pins... So I've seen sockets with the Live and Neutral in reverse.

Just my 2 cents.

Positive regards
Dennis
 
Yeah I totally understand your reservation. I'm confident from using my multimeter that the Live connection on my IEC socket is indeed the hot connection, it reads 243v with respect to ground, neutral reports nothing.
 
Autophase said:
i built my GSSL some time ago and it works & sounds fantastic.
I initially only built it because i loved the Waves SSL compressor it worked just right for the way I mixed (Mostly Techno), I also wanted to try my hand at DIY, so the GSSL was the logical choice.
My set up and the way I master has changed slightly and I like to use a compressor on a low ratio, with slow attack to bring up the overall level, so my question is how do I modify the 2:1 ratio of the GSSL to a lower setting perhaps 1.2:1 or 1.5:1?
Is it simply a case of changing the resistors on the control board? Could I even add a 3rd pot the intersects the lowest ratio setting and use that to adjust between say 1.1:1 - 2:1 ?
Any advice would be apprecated thanks.

Sorry for self bump with this, but does anyone have any advice to offer with regard to modifying the Ratio?
 
monobass said:
I'm confident from using my multimeter that the Live connection on my IEC socket is indeed the hot connection...
Might work in UK most of the time, for other european type 'C' or 'F' wall outlets/mains-plugs you'd have a 50/50 chance to get it right, so better switch both life and neutral if you ever decide on touring to maybe austria, germany, hungary, italy, netherlands, spain, ....
Euro plugs look like these http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phihong/AC30UEU-R/?qs=%252bMxOCPyBJh%252b0lBZ09Mgbr07IRiphZC3wmz4TnS8l%252bH8%3d
 
Back
Top