GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[thomasdf]

My bad Gustav! I had similar result... So same mistake I guess!

Damn, that Jakob / Gustav team is BANGING: fast and so efficient. You gotta love GroupDIY

 

[Ave Crux]

Hey guys just wondering, does anybody have an FPD file for the enclosure of the GSSL? (Everything but the front panel) -- I just want to use somebody's as reference incase I mess up my holes

 

[olebrom]

I made a mistake and  destroyed the pot I got in my Kit from PCB-grinder. I found this one laying around :

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1718056.pdf

It is a BOURNS  93R1A-R22-A18L  POTENTIOMETER, LINEAR, 50KOHM, 10%, 2W

Any reason not to use this as pot for the makeup? Will the sound quality be the same?

Thanks

 

[weiss]

if you can mount them and the specs are identical, why not? As far as i know, audio quality won't be affected but you have to try this

 

[olebrom]

if you can mount them and the specs are identical, why not? As far as i know, audio quality won't be affected but you have to try this

Thanks Weiss.    But I wouldn't know if the sound quality would be affected because I haven't tried with a different pot.  And my ears are not that trained . But as the  audio doesn't really pass thru the pot i guess I am ok?

 

[weiss]

But I wouldn't know if the sound quality would be affected because I haven't tried with a different pot.  And my ears are not that trained . But as the  audio doesn't really pass thru the pot i guess I am ok?

Yes as it is on the control pcb. I bet you notice when it does not work like it should..

 

[olebrom]

But I wouldn't know if the sound quality would be affected because I haven't tried with a different pot.  And my ears are not that trained . But as the  audio doesn't really pass thru the pot i guess I am ok?

Yes as it is on the control pcb. I bet you notice when it does not work like it should..

Thanks

 

[Gustav]

I made a mistake and  destroyed the pot I got in my Kit from PCB-grinder. I found this one laying around :

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1718056.pdf

It is a BOURNS  93R1A-R22-A18L  POTENTIOMETER, LINEAR, 50KOHM, 10%, 2W

Any reason not to use this as pot for the makeup? Will the sound quality be the same?

Thanks

Send me a mail, Ill sort you out.

Gustav

 

[Gustav]

Hey guys just wondering, does anybody have an FPD file for the enclosure of the GSSL? (Everything but the front panel) -- I just want to use somebody's as reference incase I mess up my holes

Front panel express/Schaeffer has some files for full cases

http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/products/housings/

It will be an insanely expensive option to get a case. I would just get the front from them and find the actual case somewhere else.

1RU 19" case - its a universal format.

Gustav

 

[Mazieresantoine]

HI

I finish my GSSL
and when i put some sound in i have only the Left Side, in bypass and when the comp is on.
I check all my voltage and everything seems ok.
I don't know what to check now. I think it's a problem in the audio circuit, but don't know where.

Thanks for your help

Antoine

 

[gyraf]

Antoine,

Have you looked through this giant thread? I'm pretty sure we've seen symptoms like these before.

And you're right, your problem most probably is in the audio path (xlrF>input opamp>vca>output driver opamp>xlrM)

Jakob E.

 

[thomasdf]

Hi folks
About to give the final touch to my GSSL here, and I am wondering about the lighting of the unit.
I've searched across the forum and found no answer to my question.
I need to power the following:

Hairball8027B 2 LEDs (in serie) : 5.6 - 7.6V according to Mike's website (althought I am planning on changing theses white / blue LEDs for warm yellow ones... Maybe it will draw less current)
Bypass Switch (NRG) Led : around 2V
SC Filter Switch (NRG) Led : around 2V
Power Switch (NRG) Led : wired to the Control PCB LED's spot so this one is fine.

I was of course thinking of wiring all of these in parallel, but how should I proceed? I have a 12V DC that I can use. I was planning on doing a kick veroboard with a regulator but going from 12v to 2 will produce quite a lot of heat right?
Can I just do that by using 12V + resistors, or is there a more elegant solution?

Thanks in advance
Thomas

 

[Harpo]

Not only this question has been answered numerous times in this thread.

Hairball8027B 2 LEDs (in serie) : 5.6 - 7.6V according to Mike's website (althought I am planning on changing theses white / blue LEDs for warm yellow ones... Maybe it will draw less current)

You define the amount of current drawn within parts limits. Without changing the value of the required current limiting resistor, using lower Vf LEDs will draw more current.

Bypass Switch (NRG) Led : around 2V
SC Filter Switch (NRG) Led : around 2V
Power Switch (NRG) Led : wired to the Control PCB LED's spot so this one is fine.

No idea why you call these 'NKK series LB' switches 'NRG'.
For the latest pcb revision there is an additional 7812 voltage regulator on board, so you better don't hang any additional load to the 78L12 when you can avoid it (including the power-on LED).

I was of course thinking of wiring all of these in parallel, but how should I proceed? I have a 12V DC that I can use. I was planning on doing a kick veroboard with a regulator but going from 12v to 2 will produce quite a lot of heat right?
Can I just do that by using 12V + resistors, or is there a more elegant solution?

LEDs are NOT incandescent light bulbs. LEDs are current operated devices (not voltage). 2V (+/- parts tolerances) maybe is the forward voltage for this specific LED type and colour. Different type and/or colour will come with different parameters. At 1.95V this LED won't show up and without current limiting resistor at 2.05V this specific type of LED might already overheat and  burn up. Value of current limiting resistor in ohm needed is (supply-voltage - LED-forward-voltage) / amount of current thru LED that you allow for, for example (12V - 2V)/0.01A=1000 ohm or (12V - 5.6V)/0.01A=640 ohm (the 5.6V is 2x series connected 2.8V LEDs). You don't want to exceed the LEDs forward current parameter If (might be 20mA or 30mA for your part, the parts datasheet will tell you) and you probably don't want to build a headlight, so allowing for 10mA might not be the worst idea as a starting point. This If value might further decrease with recent high efficency LED types.

 

[thomasdf]

I call them NRG Switches because the name under which they were sold to me, via frontpanels.de
http://www.frontpanels.de/miscellaneous-frontpanels/gyraf-g-ssl/ (scroll down a bit)
They do not look like NKK series LB.

All right, I got it about the current vs tension, but why the h**** then is everyone talking about V concerning the LEDs?

I have the latest revision of the PCB and there a "lights relays etc" dedicated 12VDC output right after a 7812 so that allows me around 1A if I am not mistaking? This goes straight to my bypass PCB and the relays are working fine. Then I can use it from there to light up the LEDs.
The Power Switch LED is wired straight to the control PCB where there is a dedicated spot for a LED in the "regular" build (without illuminated switches) so it's taken care of. I need to figure out how to light up 4 other LEDs, two of them being in serie in the Hairball VU meter.

If you can point me to where this has been discussed before I would greatly appreciate because both the Group DIY search engine and Google left me clueless...
Anyway, I guess I have enough information in your post to figure things out. I am still interested in further reading. Thanks

 

[jibiss]

Hello Guys,
I recently built a mic and mod gssl and been searching this thread for quite some time to no avail.
The unit passes audio fine through both channels.  When I push the compression switch it still passes audio fine but no compression and the meter does not work. ( I am running stereo sound trough a mixer into pro tools.)
Now the makeup pot DOES work.
I have replaced the voltage regulators and ordered the parts for the latch fix.

Please if any one has any ideas to narrow this down or a page in the thread to search I would be greatly appreciative!

Here is a list of my voltages with no chips in and they all look fine to me
INPUT 5534 BOTH SIDES
4 -14.888
7=14.86
OUTPUT 5532 BOTH SIDES
4 -14.88
8 +14.85
TL072
4 -12.12
8 +11.81
TL074
4 -12.12
11 +11.81
VCA  5534 BOTH SIDES
4 -14.88
714.85
VCA THAT2180B BOTH SIDES
5-14.80
7+14.85
VCA THAT 2108B SIDECHAIN
5 -8.02
7 11.81

 

[Gustav]

Now the makeup pot DOES work.

But are you switching in compression? A lot of problems like these recently have been related to the wiring of the "original" type switch for bypass, so it may be a good place to start.

Gustav

 

[Ave Crux]

Hey guys, just received my kit today (thank you Gustav!) and I am super excited, been sorting out the resistors and stuff and hopefully have a whole day tomorrow to invest in populating the board.

A couple of questions..

One of the steps in the assembly guide in PCBGrinder labelled "White lines" (jumpers?) can I simply use the snipped off leads of the resistors and just solder them to how it's shown in the photo?

Also, I ordered the 1ma DC Meter in PCBGrinder and I still am not sure if it lights up when hooked up. I've seen videos that seems like it lights up in a blue colour, but I looked at the meter today and seems like there's no kind of lamp inside..?

Thanks guys!

 

[sonicwarrior]

can I simply use the snipped off leads of the resistors and just solder them to how it's shown in the photo?

I don't know the guide but that's how I make my jumpers. At least when I'm not using my fancy looking 0 ohm resistors (jumpers that are looking like resistors).

Also, I ordered the 1ma DC Meter in PCBGrinder and I still am not sure if it lights up when hooked up. I've seen videos that seems like it lights up in a blue colour, but I looked at the meter today and seems like there's no kind of lamp inside..?

Does it have 4 connectors? If yes, two of them are for lighting.

 

[Ave Crux]

can I simply use the snipped off leads of the resistors and just solder them to how it's shown in the photo?

I don't know the guide but that's how I make my jumpers. At least when I'm not using my fancy looking 0 ohm resistors (jumpers that are looking like resistors).

Also, I ordered the 1ma DC Meter in PCBGrinder and I still am not sure if it lights up when hooked up. I've seen videos that seems like it lights up in a blue colour, but I looked at the meter today and seems like there's no kind of lamp inside..?

Does it have 4 connectors? If yes, two of them are for lighting.

Thanks, and no, it seems that it only has two connections.

Also, I have a bunch of resistors that I measured (and looked up in the charts) and seems that they are below the tolerance level ... can I still use it? Or is it really bad practice to? For example, I have a 100k +/- 1%, but my meter reads that it's value is only 96.5k... should that still be okay?

 

[Ave Crux]

Ah nevermind about my resistor problems, turns out I was just holding them wrong to my multimeter...