GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[zqone537]

Not really impressed with the sound

Please specify "not impressed".

Do you know what a SSL mixbus compressor should sound like, and do you know exactly how to use it?

Jakob E.

First off I wanna give some respect to the man who set all this off! Thanks for all that you have done to make our gearslutiness a  reality Garyf (Jakob)!!  You where right I wasn't really detailed about what I needed help with in the sound department. Didn't really realize that was you. I can't begin understand the stress level you must be under bro.
Test ran the SSL and it sounds really good. It was 2 yrs ago when I tried it. I've learned so much more about compression and how to mold and play with it since then! Plus I have updated my monitoring system so now I can actually hear what's going on with my system. There's about a 1.5db difference between the Left and Right channels. Otherwise she sounds great. She blows away Waves, Glue, and NI sold bus!!!  It's like the difference between cardboard and swede! ha ha Just need to do the Turbo mod to her to get the gain reduction correct for M/S. Might even do the Cavendish mod. I'm sure I'll have more questions to come. Until then thanks.
Peace
Zq

 

[thomasdf]

Hey "bro" you should ease up a bit because Jakob and Gustav are among the guys making all this DIYing and tinkering possible. They've done a great job, and it's been proven many time.
If your GSSL doesn't like it should (that difference between L&R among other things) it's certainly because your screwed up somewhere in the building or aligning process.
Don't go "I know how a 1176, LA2A, Manley Varimu sounds" on us because LOADS of us among here are gearslutz and have been using great gear for years in great studios. Even gear better than your sound recording 101 list.
Show some respect, take your time, get into details and everything will end up working nicely, and I can guaratee you that you'll maybe even be more happy with your GSSL (modded or not) than with an actual 4K desk bus comp.

 

[Gustav]

Hi all,

This is my first GSSL build and I'm running in to a bit of a snag. I've built a few pedals from kits and one 500 series preamp, but this is by far my most complex build to date. What I'm running in to is that it seems no matter how carefully I apply the solder, it keeps creeping over onto adjacent pads. I know this is a total noob soldering question but I didn't know if anyone had any tips for a PCB with holes this close together. Attached are some pictures. On the few that I've goofed so far, what works best to remove the solder? My desoldering wick got the majority but there's still a thin film on the pad. Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

Tyler

http://imgur.com/a/VRvbs

Hi Tyler.

I checked your picture, and I believe you may be struggling with pads that are actually connected. Could you check if that might be the case?

If thats the problem, you dont really have a problem, and it would be impossible to avoid solder flowing between already connected pads.

Check the last page of this document for reference (It can be hard to tell which pads are just neighbors, and which are more than just friends when you already started working on the board, but there is a drawing) - http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.pdf

Gustav

 

[Gustav]

I think I messed up my dc meter! When soldering the wires (the 2 pins that connect the control part to move the needle) I melted the plastic at the back and I dont think it working as the needle wont move  (power is fine). Is it safe to cut open the plastic on the back and reconnect the wires back on the pins (I think 1 might have came off). I know it will be butchered but I dont care if it works!

1st I need to replace a suspected dead cap in the output vca as its not passing audio either (installed wrong way), this is my 1st one please excuse my mess ups!

I can't see a mention of the meter you are using. Some will be easier to open than others, and you should be careful when its open. The first time I opened a meter, I did it on my workbench, blissfully ignorant that the meter mechanism is magnetic, which will draw in metallic dust and jam it up.

Dont see how melting the plastic on the back could destroy it, so I would check first to see if the meter is really the problem. There is probably an easier way, but I would see if I got any current fluctuations measuring over the meter output while the unit was compressing.

In any case, if its broken, it can't really hurt to break it some more for an attempt to get it fixed. Who is it that has "If I can't fix it, I can fix it so no one else can fix it" in their signature? Always loved the boldness of that statement

Gustav

 

[zqone537]

Good day all!
Having some noise issues with the clone. And its more then just hum. I searched the thread for some ideas. Thought it might be a ground issue. So I attached a cable to my transformer ground. Then I when I attach a cable to my  GR meter, and a cable to any input or output XLR ground. I connect all 3 together and  the noise decreases. Is this helpful to know? Does this mean it's not a grounding issue? Any advise on where to go next would be greatly appreciated.
Check the pics below of before and after to see. what I mean.
Peace
Zq

 

[unklepablo]

I think I messed up my dc meter! When soldering the wires (the 2 pins that connect the control part to move the needle) I melted the plastic at the back and I dont think it working as the needle wont move  (power is fine). Is it safe to cut open the plastic on the back and reconnect the wires back on the pins (I think 1 might have came off). I know it will be butchered but I dont care if it works!

1st I need to replace a suspected dead cap in the output vca as its not passing audio either (installed wrong way), this is my 1st one please excuse my mess ups!

I can't see a mention of the meter you are using. Some will be easier to open than others, and you should be careful when its open. The first time I opened a meter, I did it on my workbench, blissfully ignorant that the meter mechanism is magnetic, which will draw in metallic dust and jam it up.

Dont see how melting the plastic on the back could destroy it, so I would check first to see if the meter is really the problem. There is probably an easier way, but I would see if I got any current fluctuations measuring over the meter output while the unit was compressing.

In any case, if its broken, it can't really hurt to break it some more for an attempt to get it fixed. Who is it that has "If I can't fix it, I can fix it so no one else can fix it" in their signature? Always loved the boldness of that statement

Gustav

haha nice quote

The meter is this one from micandmod http://micandmod.com/en/gssl/213-vu-meter-ssl-compressor-led.html

The 2 larger pins on the back have moved a little (sunk in), I've heated them again and re-positioned them back where they should be, but I read there are 2 small wires attached on the inside and 1 of them may have came detached.

I think I already know the answer to this next question but will this stop it from passing audio? I'm guessing not but I'm really new to all of this electronics stuff and I'm still trying to figure it all out. Gotta start some where right?

Thanks for the advice I will have a mess with the meter, but would love for it to actually pass some audio 1st!

Ive sent pics over to the micandmod team but they said my soldering looks ok so I'm getting really stuck now, I'm replacing a 100uf cap near the output section in the hope that will fix it as it was put in the wrong way round when 1st powered, it didn't pop and Ive taken it out and it counts on the ohm meter so I'm not sure anymore! The power seems really stable, it stays on and is  not hot anywhere.

Thanks

Pablo

 

[sociald02]

Any advice on interfacing the super side chain board?
I am getting a thump or pop when bypass in/out.
it is more audible with the  makeup gain increased.

Thanks!

 

[unklepablo]

Hello,  I still have no signal flow trough my MicandMod gssl.  I also discovered that occasionally when I turn on the unit the light does not come on and I do not get correct voltage.  I read through the forum and it has been suggested to replace the 78 and 79 regulators which I have ordered.  when the lights do come on i have measured voltages this time with the ic chips in.  could somebody possibly take a look at this and offer any suggestions? any help would be much appreciated!  Thanks

This is a problem I have had, did the regulators fix it?

 

[Jimmy1980]

Hi guys,

Just a quick question about the gssl makeup gain:

The makeup gain knob on my unit is affecting the signal gain even when the unit is in bypass mode and because of this I can never level match my signal between bypass and non-bypass. Is this normal?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[thomasdf]

Yes, this is normal. EDITED: no it is not

I chose to wire a hard bypass with relays on my unit. (Which is going well by the way, I will post pictures ASAP)

 

[Gustav]

Hi guys,

Just a quick question about the gssl makeup gain:

The makeup gain knob on my unit is affecting the signal gain even when the unit is in bypass mode and because of this I can never level match my signal between bypass and non-bypass. Is this normal?

Thanks,

Jim

Im gonna have to disagree with Thomas on this.

Make-up gain pot should not affect the level in bypass mode. If it is, you wired it up incorrectly.

Gustav

 

[gyraf]

Yes - half of the bypass switch's job is about disabling makeup gain when bypassed. The other half of it's job is to cut signal to the attack/release timing, thereby disabling signaldependent gainreduction..

Jakob E.

 

[weiss]

Nope! Same thing here. I wired it correctly (using NRG push buttons) and still i can't match the output volume when compressing because the bypass mode is also affected by the makeup gain.

 

[Gustav]

Nope! Same thing here. I wired it correctly (using NRG push buttons) and still i can't match the output volume when compressing because the bypass mode is also affected by the makeup gain.

It can be identical to some guide or instructions but still not correct...

A guess might be the the bypass you are using is single pole, and the cut-off for the make-up was left out and left "always on"!?

Gustav

 

[weiss]

A guess might be the the bypass you are using is single pole, and the cut-off for the make-up was left out and left "always on"!?

could be possible.. i used this wiring: http://www.frontpanels.de/app/download/8067320385/SSL_switch_wiring.pdf?t=1406364904

 

[Gustav]

A guess might be the the bypass you are using is single pole, and the cut-off for the make-up was left out and left "always on"!?

could be possible.. i used this wiring: http://www.frontpanels.de/app/download/8067320385/SSL_switch_wiring.pdf?t=1406364904

Edit:for confusion.

I am getting a little confused, because I see it as if you are missing a connection to activate the make-up gain, but I may not understand the circuit correctly (I would see the make-up gain as on with the connection to the viper being made)

Even if I am seeing it wrong , or if you simply put a jumper in thats not marked on the drawing, you are not switching the make-up gain connection.

Gustav

 

[gyraf]

i used this wiring: http://www.frontpanels.de/app/download/8067320385/SSL_switch_wiring.pdf?t=1406364904

That shows the switch only doing half the job: The switching of signal to A/R timing.

You also need switching the two last "black dots" above the 750K resistor in the PDF - these are the points that connect/disconnect the makeup gain pot. Chances are that you have a wire link in here.

This probably because you use half the switch to control a LED.

If you are a bit ingenious, you could use that to swith the 12V to BOTH the LED AND to the top (+side) of the makeup-gain pot at the same time..

Maybe attached (.pdf) edit will work? Let us know, and possibly also notify Frank about this possibility..

Jakob E.

Edit: Naa, it won't work as drawn - you need to take 12V to the makeup gain pot AFTER the switch, but BEFORE the built-in LED. So the 1K resistor goes between switch and light in stead of between +12V and switch.

SEE NEXT POST

 

[weiss]

aaah you guys are geniuses! finally someone cleared that Yes, indeed jakob!
which connections do i need to make to these points?

 

[gyraf]

This (attached .pdf) might possibly work?

Edit: Should work fine - see http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=47.msg742210#msg742210

Let us know...

Jakob E.

 

[weiss]

Alright, thanks jakob! I give it a try soon