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I think it's going to be that switch. Maybe the best question would be how to wire the control board so the compression is on all the time, since you don't have the switch. Then check to see if it's compressing. It's hard to say what's going wrong when all of the parts aren't installed.

Matt
 
without the switch you would need to connect the common and the on to engage the compressor if i'm not mistaken
 
[quote author="imo"]without the switch you would need to connect the common and the on to engage the compressor if i'm not mistaken[/quote]

It's been discussed earlier in this thread and I believe you connect "com" and "off" to engage compression. That's how I have it jumpered.

In any case, I'm not seeing any of the signal in the sidechain and VCAs.

I'm unclear how to test further. :cry: See my previous post.
 
Sorry to jump in here.

I am looking to replace the Panasonics w/ Wima.

Will this part number work... Mouser part #: 505-MKS2.1/100/10

It's a .1uF but it's 100v instead of 50v.

Thanks.

Aaron

:guinness:
 
Hey Aaron,
If the lead spacing permits, I don't see why not. Basically size is the only thing you should worry in this case.
 
I think I've used those WIMAs in the past. The spacing is ok, but they are physically much bigger. Some of them will mount fine, but for some I had to glue to the PCB and connect with wire because the fit was just too tight.
 
Hey Greg,
sorry to jump in here as well but Aaron Wiles myself and another friend are building some of these compressors and were wondering if you are still selling the high pass filter pcb's. we could use 8 of them if you have some around. im new to this forum and tried to pm you and send another email and was not sure if i got thru to you or not. also did you notice any appreciable difference in using the wima caps vs the panasonics? thanks in advance for your help. brian
 
im a dumbass. i just did a search and realized that these were sold out awhile ago sorry for wasting everyones time by reading this. if anyone comes up with a second batch i know of quite a few people in nashville that would love to purchase them. ciao brian
 
[quote author="brian harrison"]im a dumbass. i just did a search and realized that these were sold out awhile ago sorry for wasting everyones time by reading this. if anyone comes up with a second batch i know of quite a few people in nashville that would love to purchase them. ciao brian[/quote]

I don't know that you are right on this.

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=14722&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Post in this thread and you may get something.

Matt
 
I still have boards available, but let's take this over to the Black Market. I don't want to clutter this thread with PCB stuff. Post in the thread Matt is linked to.
 
Hello,


I´m in the process off building this unit and have 2 questions regarding resistors. 1) on the cirquit board from swedish chef there is two places where the resistor value is followed by an asterix, the first instance is in the vca section where the 1K reasistor is spelled out as 1K* what does this mean? the other instance where this occur is in a 2K resistor where the value is spelled out as 2K*?

2) How important is the choice of resistors metalfilm low tollerance or standard coal type? I have used mainly standard resistors in my build but have messured the values to mach as closely as possible. Is it on place more than other where this is more important than other?

I imagine that the ratio and attack/release times would benefit of mach up as closely as possible to the ideal values, but what do I know? (kind of new to this please be patient :wink: )

Much respect

F
 
Hi Fredrik,

1) - we've answered this several times already in this thread. The short answer is that the *'s are leftover notes to myself.

2) Don't worry too much about resistor tolerances. The most important place for tight values are around the input opamps (for good CMRR) - but not to worry.

Jakob E.
 
Oh I forgot I have another question regarding the choice of op amps first there are different manufacturers of the NE5532 and NE 5534, texas instruments or fairchild etc does the choise of manufacturer have any importance for the sound/performance of the unit?

Secondly there are several different additions to the number for example N and NE or AP or none what does this all mean and what should I look for?

Regarding the caps, I have heard people discussing difference in sound between different manufacturers when recapping old mixing desks. Is it one brand that is more prefferable than other in this project, what was used in the original G384? Or should I go with the panasonic?
 
[quote author="Fredrik"] what was used in the original G384? [/quote]

This is not a 384, but a clone of what is inside the center section of the SSL4000E console..

Jakob E.
 
[quote author="gyraf"][quote author="Fredrik"] what was used in the original G384? [/quote]

This is not a 384, but a clone of what is inside the center section of the SSL4000E console..

Jakob E.[/quote]

Thanks for the answer :grin:

I thought that the G384 was infact the busscompressor of the 4000E in a stand alone unit. :?
 
[quote author="Fredrik"]
Regarding the caps, I have heard people discussing difference in sound between different manufacturers when recapping old mixing desks. Is it one brand that is more prefferable than other in this project, what was used in the original G384? Or should I go with the panasonic?[/quote]
I'm also wondering if choice of capacitors affects the sound. I saw somwhere Gustav's answer in very short words that it doesn't really metter for the Gssl. Am i correct?
 
Basically, yes. There are only five electrolytics in the signal path, of which four are at the balanced inputs and outputs. I have not been able to spot any significant difference between the cap typesthat I have tried in this circuit, probably because 99% of it's "sound" comes from the VCA's anyway.

But by all means - feel free to experiment, and if you're unsure, use the best parts available to you. It is not like you'll break the bank or anything by using high-grade electrolytics..

Jakob E.
 
Greetings All...

OK, I finished nearly everything on my first GSSL. All but the meter, LED and knobs.

I fired it up yesterday, and I appear to have an issue w/ power. I'm getting a +14.8 on the +15 rail, and getting a +1.08 on the -15 rail.

I've double checked all solder joints for any cold solder points as well as any connections that could have been touching. All looks good. I've double checked the polarity of the caps, and double checked the resistor values. I've checked the voltage regulators and they're on the correct position.

I am using the Amveco Toroidal transformer Model #: TE62063-ND from Digikey.

I connected the wires as follows:

The Red & Yellow to common and the Black & Violet to 115v (after toggle switch). The secondaries for output, the Brown and Red are connected together and on the middle pin of the connector to the board. The Blue and Green wires are on the 2 outside pins of the connector.

The transformer gets extremely hot once connected to the board.

Is this correct, or am I missing something?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Aaron
 

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