GSSL SuperSC board

[stitch-o]

Here's my progress...
The only thing I am stuck on is about the relay bypass as connected on the original GSSL FP ratio/attack/release board.

Right now, that nest of orange wires in the bottom picture goes from the ratio/release/attack board to a relay to a lighted bypass pushbutton on the FP.
On the SSC, the potA, potB, COM, OFF, and ON seem to go to those same points on the GSSL FP board.

My question is, when wiring in the SSC, do I entirely remove the current lighted bypass switch scheme and, instead, wire the
potA, potB, COM, OFF, and ON from the SSC to those points on the FP board and then install the "In SW" switch to a SPST and "IN LED" indicator on the FP for global bypass?

What is the "Meter Led" for? I have a sifam with no lamp.
Should I just let that connection point hang open on the SSC or does it need an Led to complete the circuit?

Thanks doods!

EDIT: after rereading this entire thread, I think the answer is 'yes, to the bypass wiring question' to the above but I'd dig having an experienced opinion.

RE EDIT: after going through the docs again, I see that the answer is yes.
The two sided layout (one side is relay bypass and the other is thrust and HPF) is the key.

Cheers!

 

[stitch-o]

Anyone curious about wiring a single SSC and turbo, I am posting my wiring diagram.
I hope that it is legible and I'm pretty sure its correct.

Cheers!

 

[Stagefright13]

I didn't even use the relay or the in LED etc. on my. It was a retrofit to an existing unit. I just added the sidechain board as in the instructions. Less those parts. I am still using the original bypass and LED. Works and sounds great. I only used the ext sidechain once so far. But is hooked in.

Basically just added the extra filters wich really made this thing work. Never tried the turbo even...

John

 

[regularjohn]

Hey Stitch-o,

I'm trying to understand your wiring diagram, but I can't make any sense of it.
Can you explain how you're using a turbo board with only one SSC board?
The point of the turbo is to keep the L/R signal from getting summed, but that's exactly what the SSC board does.
I don't see how you can use an SSC with the turbo unless you're only using the SSC for one channel.

 

[barclaycon]

Yes, I think that it's worth pointing out that the Turbo board is for the provision of 2 detectors - in the same way that the original SSL compressor works.
That being the case, you would need 2 Sidechain boards for it to work properly (and a double pole selector switch for the frequencies etc.)
You only need to use 1 IN/OUT section of course.

If you don't need meter illumination just leave the pins disconnected.

In transferring the design to someone else, it would appear that some of the PCB holes are now a bit tight.
(the 6 pin connector and the relay diodes for example).
I was thinking of doing a little re-design to accomodate this and also do the mod that Keith suggested of having the relay ground the make-up wiper instead of just open-circuiting it.
Maybe I'll get round to it in the next few months!

 

[stitch-o]

I basically took Holger's wiring scheme minus the relay switching.
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=32341.0
You don't need two SSC boards...

The trick is taking both sides of the 47K pair by the left VCA.
The top pair of throughholes that connected the 47k resistors goes to the
in of a DPDT switch. One side of the switch goes to the L and R of the SSC,
the other side of the switch gets one output back to the other side of the lifted 47k connection, via a 47k resistor. The final output of that side of the DPDT switch goes (again via 47k R) to the turbo board.
Basically, end result is: a toggle switch between mono (SSC) and stereo (turbo).
My understanding was that 2 x SSC were needed if one wanted turbo AND SSC connected.
Im fine with one or the other.

Maybe I'm wrong somewhere?

I wound up just soldering some wires back and forth between the diodes. I think it will be fine.
I have a 2.5v led coming for the 'In LED'.

 

[barclaycon]

Maybe I'm wrong somewhere ?
I thought you were asking for advice, but apparently you know it all...

 

[stitch-o]

Maybe I'm wrong somewhere ?
I thought you were asking for advice, but apparently you know it all...

I kinda started out asking but in the mean time I reread all the threads and had a brainstorm.
Again, I think it will work but who the hell knows.
I guess I will once I get the next mouser order.

Barclaycon, did you do the boards? Seriously, aside from the extra small diode hole pains (haha), the design
is very very coool!! You have gotten me psyked about the GSSL all over again!

I do have a question for you: the 0v/Send/ext(ernal) sidechain input...where does that get connected?
I know the ext goes to high end of audio at a panel mount jack connection....

Cheers!

 

[regularjohn]

Oh ok, I gotcha now, I think.  You're switching between the SSC board and the turbo board - you're not using both at the same time.  That makes sense.
So basically you've got Aurhaus mode with an SSC and at the flip of a switch you can turn that into oxford mode with no SSC, right?

 

[stitch-o]

bingo

 

[stitch-o]

bingo

And here we are in T*rust calibration.
Everything seems to be working fine...I guess I was right.
So, far HOLY CRAP! These two boards really pumped some life into the box.
...now, onto the c'n'b.
Thanks a ga-ja-billion, kats!
Cheers!

EDIT: seriously, Ive been playing with this for an hour or so and I am loving turbo...SSC will be a great tool too.
So many thanks to everyone who put these together.
One last 'holy crap'........holy crap!

 

[snipsnip]

Hey Stich-o,

Your diagram has gone for me.... Are you able to reupload it?

Im going to review and update my GSSL in the next month or so and am yet to read these huge threads in total so am a little confused.

Whats that dark blue board youve got (maybe it will be clear when I see the diagram) ?

Cheers
Jake

 

[stitch-o]

Hey Stich-o,

Your diagram has gone for me.... Are you able to reupload it?

Im going to review and update my GSSL in the next month or so and am yet to read these huge threads in total so am a little confused.

Whats that dark blue board youve got (maybe it will be clear when I see the diagram) ?

Cheers
Jake

Hi Jake,
You and I seem to be building from the same list!
The dark blue board (in the picture) is the c'n'b board.
I have yet to hook that up, but very soon.
The crux of Holgers design comes from and goes to where the pair of 47K resistors that sit by
the left (I think) VCA would have been once you pull them.
Those get pulled entirely. Then there is a run from both points on the feed side
where you just pulled those 47ks; those two throughholes go to a DPDT switch on the frontpanel.
That switch either sends applicable signal to the SSC -OR- the Turbo board.

I think I need to make a better diagram...

Hope this helps some.

Update: Semi-proper and legible diagram in the works now.

 

[snipsnip]

haha - indeed we do.

Im really interested in how youve done this. I think this is also how I will approach it.

Is there anyway you can get that diagram back up dude?

jake

 

[stitch-o]

This one is a bit better I think...

 

[snipsnip]

nice one man.

Got to finish my pultec before I do this, but Im sure I'll have more questions soon 

 

[stitch-o]

Hay Jake,
are you doin' P-t-P Pultecs ala
THIS GUY?

 

[snipsnip]

NO Im afraid I didnt have the patience to try a PTP... Im doing a dual GPultec 'type' EQ.

Sounding sweet enough so far 

 

[stitch-o]

Just marveling at the coincidence: I'm putting a Pultec BOM together now.
Tho I am going to do a P-T-P.
Gotta find some of that clothwrap hookupwire...

EDIT: New faceplate coming in a week or so. Then I'll dive into the C'n'B too.
FWIW: I think I have the R/L flipped on the connection at the SSC (or DPDT switch) in the above diagram.
Anyone have an opinion?

 

[audiophreak]

Hi Stitch-o,

  I got some cloth covered hookup wire from here - http://www.tubesandmore.com/ - he's got a lot of cool stuff, I used the cloth covered wire, tube shields and knobs in my G9.  Its a little bit of a PITA, I had to cut the cotton braid with an exacto knife, then clip the stray threads, but its very heavy duty and I'm glade I used it.