Help! Otari MX 80 Remote Control Doesn't Work

[lookn4tone]

Please help! I have an Otari MX 80. The CB-124 remote that is used to operate it doesn't work (and, you guessed it, neither does the deck without it).

Plugged in, the Record/Play/Stop/FF/RW buttons on the remote all light up together (not a good sign), and that's it. Nothing works (can't select tracks to record/safe, no counter, no led illuminating, nothing).

The deck works (play/stop/FF/RW), but you can't record. You have to select tracks to record on with the remote.

This is a HUGE bummer, because I have a session this week. I don't have a schematic for it. And even if I did, it would be hard to know where to begin given that there are a million IC's in this baby.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[pucho812]

did you plug the remote in with the mx-80 on? that would be bad news... It won't hurt to open it up and see if you can find any problems on the side of the remote you know look for blown parts, burn marks,etc,etc,etc... Then check for the same thing in the tape machine... It's possible something is wrong in the PSU... had that happen recently with a different tape machine over where I work at. ended up causing the machine to not rewind or fast foward... had to replace some parts and it's good as new now... even if you can't fix it,usually doesn't hurt to look it over... just be careful when you do..

 

[lookn4tone]

I actually did open it up, and, unfortunately, there are no obvious signs of a problem. Everything looks perfect. That's always the worst for me, because it's hard to know where to begin looking. I did check for volts, and the remote is getting 27 V. The IC's are getting about 4.7V.

What would happen if the remote was plugged in after the machine was turned on? I bought it used, so anything is possible.

I was so pumped. I had JRF check out the head and had them relapped (75% left). I got an MRL (Gulp! Sticker shock!), and then went to tune it up for a session.....

Man, what a drag.

Thanks

Steve

 

[pucho812]

we have an MX-80 floating around here somewhere, I'll see if we have any schemo's and such.... It's been so long that I used one and that we used ours here so lets see what I remember...
PLugging the remote with the unit on is a big no no. It will blow up the remote rendering it useless. There is a big tip off in the fact that all the lights on the transport controls are on... I am wondering if it's anything like the studer 827's where one can turn the remote off... Hmmmm... well we know it has nothing to do with the audio cards... Start by going over the PSU as it feeds all. I had one of those blow up about a week and a half ago... Then go from there...

 

[lookn4tone]

Amazingly enough, you can't turn off the remote; you have to control the deck from the remote.

There is a test feature that you can use to check the record function on the channels. The only problem is, if selected, it arms all channels for record.

I greatly appreaciate your help.

Many thanks,

Steve

 

[W DeMarco]

Steve, I have a MX-80 as well that is prone to heat problems. There are no cooling fans found in the beast so sometimes after being on for 10 hours it gets real grumpy. I found that opening the back panel right above the psu helps cool it. Right now mine is sitting above an AC vent to cool it further.

Initially I thought the prob was in the remote that seemed to act up rather than the machine. From what I understand there are a bunch of relays in the remote that could be problematic. If there are any major errors they should be posted on the readout on the actual deck. I have a manual with a ton of schematics. If you cant find one I could copy the ones you need and post em up.

Usually the MX-80 is known for being a real workhorse. I hope you know the studio that had it before you, unless they havent operated it in years this kind of problem should have been brought to your attention on purchase.

Pucho is right that most probs will eminate from the PSU. Blevins audio in Nashville has a nice cache of parts if needed. He might even have a remote. Good luck.

If you need a repair tech call Otari and ask for a recommendation. I lost the name/number of the guy I was in contact but Im sure they'll send you to him. If so hes a great guy who will point you in the right direction.

 

[W DeMarco]

Heres a thread that might help, might not

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/8024-mx-80-remote-error-91-please-help.html

http://www.technicalaudio.com/contact.html

John Klett is supposed to be a guru for otari

 

[pucho812]

[quote author="lookn4tone"]Amazingly enough, you can't turn off the remote; you have to control the deck from the remote.

There is a test feature that you can use to check the record function on the channels. The only problem is, if selected, it arms all channels for record.

I greatly appreaciate your help.

Many thanks,

Steve[/quote]

Steve I don't mean turn off in the sense of turn on and off... I ment turn off as in bypass the remote controls... The studers, cannot turn their remote off either but you can bypass them making the controls not workie untill you in bypass it.

 

[lookn4tone]

Thanks a bunch for the reply. I would be grateful for those schematics.

I didn't notice any errors on the deck read-out. Is there a way to run diagnostics to see if any come up?

I'm gonna call Blevins later today.

I sincerely appreciate both of you guys replying to this post.

Best,

Steve

 

[W DeMarco]

Not sure about the diagnostics test but I know you can reset the machine. Not sure how and the manual is at the studio and Im not. I can check when I go in. As far as schemes. You'll hve to determine which one you need. There are a ton and their on foldout pages makin them huge. It would really be a good idea to buy a manual from Blevins. There are a lot of options on the audio and control cards that you might need to know about. There is also a lot of info on how to setup the machine. Its a pretty in depth process that should be completed pretty often to maintain your machine. It will teach you how to use that expspensive MRL. Also tells you how to disarm the dolby and other pertinent info.

Will

 

[pucho812]

I second that. MRL's are not cheap... lordy do be carful with it.... Best to make a house tones reel and hid the mrl...

 

[lookn4tone]

Hey, you guys are awesome.

I talked to John Klett (nice guy), and he pointed me in the same direction: The power supply board.

I took out the board and all the large (filter?) caps are leaking, all of them. Well, I just finished placing an order with digikey (wouldn't it be great if digikey changed it's interface to be more like mouser or newark....).

Now the next question is: How do I get these things off the board without breaking it? When I say leaking, I mean leaking. These babies are fused to the board. Any thoughts on how to remove them (apart from the obvious, unsoldering)?

I'm also curious if I should change any other components? Voltage regulators, for instance. Is there any way you could send me the schemo for the power supply? I got the service manual from Otari, but (hey! wouldn't you know) it didn't have the schematics (just blank pages where the schematics are supposed to go).

I'm crossing my fingers on this one. At this point I'm trying to remain optimistic.

About the MRL, do you suggest that I make a test tape by recording from the oscillator off the board (or a tone generator) for routine adjustments? I suppose I would use the MRL to get everything to baseline before makeing a tape with test tones.

Muchas Gracias to both of you guys.

Best,

Steve

 

[pucho812]

I wouldn't worry about the voltage regs and other parts yet. Take a pic of the leaking caps... are you concerned with the fluid from the caps that has gone everywhere? Now the question is did the caps blow badly or are they just leaking from old age :?

the super super basics of aligning a tape machine....
when you do the record alignment part you must and unless unavailable use the oscillator on the console. that way the machine is matched to the console... there are other reason but lack of sleep has my memory hazy.

Now onto alignment...

use the MRL when you do your playback alignment... Follow normal alignment on that...If you have any questions on that ask away otherwise set up to your desiered level... I love to use +6/185 even with gp9 which can do up to +9 and will probably do that with ATR tape which can go up to +10 according to them. I haven't used it yet.

Then throw up a a reel and do the record alignment.. Then once your done... Print tones onto that reel... usually do 1K, 10K, and 100HZ or depending up the console do something lower... But you will find most placed do 100HZ. I prefer to do a mix of 100 and 40HZ... just for the most accurate playback...

Then store that reel... next time you need to align from scratch VS from a clients tape, use that reel instead of the MRL... It makes it safer as MRL's are mucho $$$... Plus if by accident, you erase any part of it no biggie as you can make another one... :thumb:

Edit: I just reread what you said about removing those caps...

hmmm thats a good one I have never had a cap leak all over the PCB... Might want to make a different thread asking that in the title... :thumb:

 

[W DeMarco]

Theres some real good tech info posted at MRL's website. I would read thru it all many times. Good advice Pucho on the MRL. I think I'll take it as well!

 

[pucho812]

If it's just silicone glue, then a nice single edge razor will take it off without issue as well as once you get a section of glue disconnected you can usually pull it off without issue.. Just recapped an amp where the caps were glued in. A lil razor action got it off and once I got a corner of it off the PCB, I was able to pull off the glue without issue.

 

[SSLtech]

Did you get this resolved yet?

Something similar is common with BOTH of our old MX-80's.

I used to reseat the lower-right card in the main frame of the machine, and they'd be fine for another six months.

Also, UNPLUG the remote (powered off) and see if the transport will function, fast wind, rewind and play back etc. -If not, your remote is fine, and it's in the machine. Measure the PSU voltages, check them against the manual.

Then you can get to work, but BEWARE the transport control cards (inside the back hinge-flap of the transport) -If they get a hit, it's time for a new one... and you can't GET a new one. -You'd probably be buying another machine for the one part...

Keith

 

[lookn4tone]

Right now, I'm in a holding pattern waiting for my digikey order to arrive.

The machine seems to work fine. Transport controls all work, etc. I need to get this thing back together for a session this weekend. I really hope the PSU is the culprit.

I will post a pic later of the caps. They don't look to be glued. There is a brown-colored substance all away around the base of each of the large caps. I assume that it is from inside the cap. I've seen it before on old caps that were wasted. And it's tough to get off. It could be glue. I simply don't know if it is, and, furthermore, don't know why they would be glued. They are snap-in radial caps that seat directly on the board.

The key here, is that there are traces on both sides of the board. And you guessed it: Some of the caps sit on some of those very traces. I need to be really carefull here. I'm really anxious about using a blade. Is there a solvent that I can use that won't hurt the board/masking?

Thanks.

Steve

 

[lookn4tone]

Well, it look like, indeed, it could be glue. I removed one of the caps by saturating the base with alcohol (though, technically, it may not be the best solvent). I dunno. Thoughts?

I'll post a pic shortly.

Steve

 

[lookn4tone]

And the hits just keep on comin'. Have you ever felt cursed?

In the process of removing these glued (or, as I refer to them, welded on) capacitors, I pulled the thru-hole copper out on a couple of lead holes. Apparently, my solder vacuum isn't strong enough! What a f*#king surprise.

Normally, it wouldn't be a huge problem; but not in this case. As luck would have it, the PCB has traces on both sides. And which of the holes do you think had the copper pulled out?! You guessed it! The ones with the traces on both sides.

What a disaster. Any suggestions to this new quandary?

Apparently, I'm going all digital this weekend. What a joy!

The good news (if you can call it that); some of the caps were in fact leaking. Now, how to repair this PCB????

 

[pucho812]

pulling traces... sucks I have been there and I don't even have a desolder station yet... It's bad when you are recapping a whole console with solder wic and a desolder hand pump. worse the desolder station is on back order... anyway All that to say I have fixed a PCB at all.

check below and you will find some PCB repair kits. Obviously you can't fix traces that are inbetween the boards but the outer traces are repairable...

http://www.solder.net/PCB/default.asp

Now before you go further, relax and take a breather. go slow and don't force at all. When you force you risk pulling traces. I know I have done it... Whenever removing parts that are glued, make sure the glue is completely off and double check you have so solder sticking the legs into the through hole. Sometimes a solder wic is good for that reason alone even though i know some people who do not like them...

Hey it's usually fixable , it just takes time and patience. Lucky for you parts are still somewhat available...