JLM Baby Animal

[mattmoogus]

There are no mounts for the transformer, it just solders straight to the PCB. I usually put a small strip of plastic underneath the transformer to hold it off the PCB while I solder the pins and remove it afterwards.


M@

 

[nick96]

Exellent. Thanks

 

[Schmilsson]

aw, bloody hell, firstime paypaler, missed the swedish crown -> euro conversion before the conversion to kangaroo money and left me 4 aussie short..

Back to bank transfer and another two day wait...

 

[bluesgirl]

Hi everyone,

I got my ba's the other day.

I was just wondering if anyone can suggest a low cost soldering iron that can accomodate the right tip to solder the BA's?

The pads are very small on the board. I am a little worried about it since I don't want to mess up the board when soldering. Im ok with soldering but a little concerned about this board.

My iron is old and I don't think i can get diff tips for it. Old radio shack screw-on type.

What type of tip would anyone suggest? conical, micro, etc.

Thanks,

Bluesgirl (Tammy)

 

[mr.jones]

[quote author="bluesgirl"]Hi everyone,

I got my ba's the other day.

I was just wondering if anyone can suggest a low cost soldering iron that can accomodate the right tip to solder the BA's?

The pads are very small on the board. I am a little worried about it since I don't want to mess up the board when soldering. Im ok with soldering but a little concerned about this board.

My iron is old and I don't think i can get diff tips for it. Old radio shack screw-on type.

What type of tip would anyone suggest? conical, micro, etc.

Thanks,

Bluesgirl (Tammy)[/quote]

I used the cheap $8 one from RadioShack. It has a fairly large tip, but it worked fine for me. I did both of my Baby Animals and my Hybrid with this iron. Obviously, if you can afford a more expensive Weller or something, you should do that. But I couldn't, so I used the cheap one. Incidentally, the soldering iron stand they sell does NOT fit the all black plastic iron that I got. It only fits the smaller 2-color one. I find that to be infinitely annoying, but what can you do.

RadioShack sells replacement tips that should fit your iron.

Honestly, I don't think you should worry too much about messing up the board. I hadn't soldered in years (and only a couple times back then) and just jumped right in and all worked out well. Just go slow and be careful!

Also, just as a bit of advice, before you turn on your soldering iron, separate all of your components and check that they are the correct values. Then tape them down to your work surface and write on the tape what the value of each component is. This will keep you from putting a component in the wrong place.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[jmiller]

I'm sure a ratshack would work with the right tip.

A while back I got a Weller WLC100, which is an inexpensive variable temp soldering station. It sells for somewhere around $50, which isn't VERY cheap, but is cheap for what it is. I got it because I kept burning out the cheap ones, or using up the tips constantly from having them on for a long time during a project, etc. The weller makes everything easier, even things like having a power switch on it so I don't have to unplug it just to turn it off for an hour, and the handy base, etc. Not to mention the variable power which, although usually left in one place, is handy when working on cables and and such.

I guess it isn't too cheap, but it's a good price for what it is and I haven't needed to buy another iron in a long time. I bought mine at Fry's.

But, the radioshack iron is obviously a less expensive and option and would work fine with the right tip, I'm sure.

 

[bluesgirl]

Thanks guys. I guess I'll try the rad shack one before i invest in a new one. It is pretty old but still works.

Does everyone stuff all or some of the components on their boards first or do they kinda put them in one at a time?

Any suggestions for holding the components to the board or just bend the leads?

I've done this stuff before but just a small amount and it has been a few years so any help is appreciated.

Thx,

Bluesgirl

 

[fum]

I always go in waves. Stuff the smallest parts first, as they get hard to do with all the big parts on there.

If you put too much on the board at once, it gets hard to maneuver through the forest of leads on the bottom of the board.

My $.02

ju

 

[unheardof]

Bending the leads slightly inward is usually enough to hold the parts in place, but it makes it a little harder if you have to remove them later.

I like to stuff the parts according to height. For example, first I do resistors, then small caps, etc, all the way up to the tall electrolytic caps.

One soldering iron tip (no pun intended) is to keep the tip CLEAN. Use a wet sponge with some slits cut in it and clean the tip after every solder joint. The first two irons I had I never cleaned the tip and they quickly get eaten away by the solder.

 

[mattmoogus]

Hey Tammy,

All these tips are good. Heres a summary and the way I do it:


Use a fairly fine chisel tip ideally (mine is a 1.6mm). This lets you get good heat to the pad and the componant leg at the same time.

If you can, work on a soft neoprene or similar material mat. That way when you flip the board over to solder the joints, you can press it against the mat and make sure the componants are pushed hard to the board.

Stuff the board in order of componant height. So first resistors and diodes, then the IC socket, then gold sockets (if you have them), then small caps, then IDC socket, then switches, then electro caps, then transformer. Of course you dont have to follow that order strictly, its just to give you the idea.

With large parts like electro caps, once you solder the legs and trim them, reheat the joint for a second and push the cap hard to the board. Also with multi leg things like the IC socket and IDC header, solder one pin, then reheat that joint while pushing the socket hard to the board.

Yes its important to clean your tip after every few joints. Once the residual solder on it starts to become oxidised (looses its shine) you need to wipe it off and retin it with a little fresh solder.

Contrary to popular belief, you can actually desolder and resolder those plated through boards several times. They are very strong and even though its more difficult than single sided, anyone can do it if you know how. Ive even removed one of the 1/4" sockets from the DI PCB once, without breaking any tracks. So it IS possible! Joe wrote a post about doing it a while ago, I might see if he can link to it as I dont remember what thread it was in.


Hope this helps.

M@

 

[mhelin]

How do you desolder a transformer? I've found it very difficult (in my case an OEP on the jlm99v pcb).

 

[broccoli]

I second the cheap-o radio shack soldering iron. I used the thirty watt-er for an eight pack of SCA pre's and it worked just fine. I did go through about four tips but I had no problems working on the smallest components. Your mileage may vary.

~Joe

 

[mattmoogus]

[quote author="mhelin"]How do you desolder a transformer? I've found it very difficult (in my case an OEP on the jlm99v pcb).[/quote]

Its not easy but it is possible. I generally pass it to Joe if I have to do it. There are two ways depending on the exact situation.

One is to try and suck all the solder out of the hole, then wriggle the pin in the hole until it breaks free from the remaining solder. If you can do this to all the pins or all but one you can then just heat the last one (usually the one connected to the ground plane) and pull it out.

The other way, if you cant suck most of the solder out of the holes, is to add more solder to each joint (so when you heat them they stay molten for longer) and quickly drag your iron between all the pins on one side of the transformer, while at the same time pull it out of the board. Then you do it to the other side and little by little you ease the transformer out.

You have to do this as fast and accurately as you can to avoid destroying the transformer or the board. Its certainly not for beginners but it is possible with practice.



M@

 

[gevermil]

are the gold pins supose to be that snug ?
You push them in from the other side of the board then solder both dides correct ?

 

[mattmoogus]

No, have a look at the picture of the 99V board on the previous page. The pins are usually tight but sometimes not, depending on the exact thickness of the solder in the PCB holes.

They push in from the top of the board and the bottom of the socket sits flush with the bottom of the board and is soldered on top.



M@

 

[bluesgirl]

Everybody's info is very helpful and sort of gives me a little more confidence with this. Thanks for the replies.


[quote author="mattmoogus"]

With large parts like electro caps, once you solder the legs and trim them, reheat the joint for a second and push the cap hard to the board. Also with multi leg things like the IC socket and IDC header, solder one pin, then reheat that joint while pushing the socket hard to the board.

M@[/quote]

The way it sounds it is kind of important to have the components as close and tight to the board as possible?

Is the closeness to the board as important for all the parts or just certain ones?

Does reheating the joints then moving the part set up a greater possibility for a cold joint?

I know im a pain but... :roll:

Thx,

Tammy

 

[crm0922]

I don't think soldering them as close as possible is really necessary, but it certainly looks more professional.

Just make sure you wait long enough to avoid loosening anything. Some components can hold heat for a while and slow the solder cooling a bit.

I have a rosin flux-pen that can add flux to a joint if I am re-heating it for whatever reason. Helps ensure the solder will reflow easily.

Chris

 

[mattmoogus]

Its important for some parts;

The switches need to be hard to the board and aligned properly so they arent bent when you bolt them up to a front panel.

The gold sockets need to be an even height so the DOA sits evenly and gets a good contact on every pin.

The large caps should be hard to the board so they dont flap around when the preamp is moved, and potentially break they legs or solder joints. This is not so important for most DIY jobs but is still good practice to follow.

The rest of the parts arent that important but its still good practice to have everything sitting neatly where its supposed to go. And its so easy to do, why wouldnt you?!\

Oh and I know Ive said this before, but keep all the wiring, especially the gain pot wires, as short as possible and tightly and evenly twisted.

If you just take the first one slowly and carefully, and try to be neat and methodical, youre almost guarenteed it will work first time. I build these kits every day at work and I dont remember the last time I had one that didnt work first time. They really are very straightforward things to build!


M@

 

[gevermil]

newb questions - anyone feel free
with 48v power CZ and RZ are irrelevant as are resistors marked * and # RL is a 10k ?
RP states 100R ?
And finally , how do you get solder out of your hair ?
just kidding , any help would be great
G

 

[Schmilsson]

[quote author="mattmoogus"]Oh and I know Ive said this before, but keep all the wiring, especially the gain pot wires, as short as possible and tightly and evenly twisted.[/quote]

I've seen people using shielded cable for this, good/bad?